Oop's forgot one thing about manifold, they can be a bit tricky. Once you lay the manifold on the heads hand start the 4 screws, wiggle the manifold so not to bind it on the screws, once the screws are seated as far as you can hand tighten, tighten 1/4 turn at a time in a criss-cross pattern. And yes, use the stock #35 pilot jet.

Erbman I agree with you on both.

Got her all back together 167.5 main PMS Screw 3 1/2 turns out but still have the 37.5 pilot in as I don't have a 35 stock to put in it. Bike idles fine. Went on a 20 mile test ride and she ran great! Do you think I should still go with the 35 pilot or just run it and see how it goes?

Ringo

Ringo wrote:
Do you think I should still go with the 35 pilot or just run it and see how it goes?

Ringo

Six of this, half dozen that. Still think to many turns out, especially with the 37.5. However, there is enough turns to the pilot screw to over lap settings of the jet. Just to give an idea, lets say it was the 35 pilot at 3 turns, a 37.5 pilot would require 2 turns out. I'm not saying this is how this carb and jets work, just so you see how the 2 can work together with different jets and give the same air/fuel mix. Seems most find using the 35 jet and 2 to 3 turns work, so with the larger pilot probably can go much less turns on screw. Also keep in mind, the pilot ckt is where your cruising speed. The pilot srew controls the flow of gas from pilot jet, too many turns out, low mileage. I would try at 2 turns out from a light seat. Also, only judge performance on a warmed engine, never cold. After this point, if tweaking needed, one thing at a time so you can make comparisons. Seat of the pants tuning can take a number of trys, and depending what you are tuning for? Performance? Economy? In the middle? I shoot for a particular AFR, so need to take it in for AfR monitoring. I use a cruise test for mileage, same speed as Mikuni does on their tests, but they are a bit more controlled. 65mph for a good minimum 100 mile hwy run. aprox 50mpg city, low 40's. Once you hit 75, you start eating gas. Also a lot shut down the accelerator pump ckt cause of gas consumption, some still need a bit of a squirt to get rid of initial throttle hesitation. Your call.

Erbman02 wrote:
Ringo wrote:
Do you think I should still go with the 35 pilot or just run it and see how it goes?

Ringo

Six of this, half dozen that. Still think to many turns out, especially with the 37.5. However, there is enough turns to the pilot screw to over lap settings of the jet. Just to give an idea, lets say it was the 35 pilot at 3 turns, a 37.5 pilot would require 2 turns out. I'm not saying this is how this carb and jets work, just so you see how the 2 can work together with different jets and give the same air/fuel mix. Seems most find using the 35 jet and 2 to 3 turns work, so with the larger pilot probably can go much less turns on screw. Also keep in mind, the pilot ckt is where your cruising speed. The pilot srew controls the flow of gas from pilot jet, too many turns out, low mileage. I would try at 2 turns out from a light seat. Also, only judge performance on a warmed engine, never cold. After this point, if tweaking needed, one thing at a time so you can make comparisons. Seat of the pants tuning can take a number of trys, and depending what you are tuning for? Performance? Economy? In the middle? I shoot for a particular AFR, so need to take it in for AfR monitoring. I use a cruise test for mileage, same speed as Mikuni does on their tests, but they are a bit more controlled. 65mph for a good minimum 100 mile hwy run. aprox 50mpg city, low 40's. Once you hit 75, you start eating gas. Also a lot shut down the accelerator pump ckt cause of gas consumption, some still need a bit of a squirt to get rid of initial throttle hesitation. Your call.

Thanks Erbman, i'll go ahead and pick up a 35 just incase and see how it goes. Thanks for everybodys help.
Ringo

BE VERY CAREFUL USING CARB CLEANER TO CHECK FOR VACUUM LEAKS!!! I found out the hard way that carb cleaner will take the finish right off of the engine block !!! WD-40 does not work as well (but it does work) & is much safer!

Good to know, I was not aware of that. I do know that 3 leaks I had over a period of time, wd40 would not pick-up on any of them, engine would never skip a beat, no matter how much I sprayed, but when I hit it with the carb juice cleaner, there was no denying there was a leak. Even the smallest of leaks will play havoc when trying to tune the carb. I use AFR monitoring for tuning, when finally sealed properly, went down 3 sizes on main jet.