Go to my web site and download the Mikuni manual that should help you as well as the service manual.

OK COOL, thanks all and looks like tommorrow is gonna be a big day, will be back if I get in a bind, you guys are the best.

Afterthought, A good indication if the carb has been worked on are the screws that hold the float bowl, they are phillip,s head from the factory, and they are tough to get out without tearing them up,,most folks will replace with allen heads, but if they were re-used then there is a good chance that you will see some damage on them..

90% of the time the wrench just follows the direction of the pipe manufacturers carb settings, regardless of what type air intake you have. They err on the side of caution which is always rich. In time, fouled plugs, excessive carbon on pistons, eventual loss of power, detonation due to carbon. If they have you jet too lean, could actually put holes in pistons. Usually they richen the pilot ckt with a too large a pilot jet and too large a main jet. What you also need to be aware of is if they changed the air bleed jet. If you'll notice that at cruise speed your throttle is not past 1/4 throttle. Cruise mileage is mostly from gas from the pilot ckt at this point, and also determined by the diameter of the needle in the needle jet (needle jet is never changed) Myself, I use 65mph to determine my cruise mpg's, same speed in which Mikuni uses in their testing. I also use AFR monitoring to determine my jetting, over the years of reading carb posts (over 5k post I've read), and various issues associated, seeing many a peoples dyna runs w/AFR monitoring, I started to see a pattern where an AFR of 14 yields 50mpg. I did find an article that makes a lot of sense in carb tuning, most of the article is geared toward HD engines, but AFR is AFR, and it certainly worked for me following their AFR table. I did use the leaner of the AFR spread they show in each ckt to preserve my economy vs performance, though performance is not bad either. I've played quite a bit with my carb setting just to see what is what. I did notice that full point richer in afr, a seat of the pants difference, but only a half point richer was much harder to feel by seat of the pants. I was never able to tell proper main jet selection regardless of methods I tried, when I thought I was spot on, to only find that I was lean when doing the AFR monitoring. Hence I started to do more monitored runs. One of the most important things is to make sure there are ZERO air and or vacuum leaks on the intake.
here's the article: http://www.daytona-sensors.com/tech_tuning.html

Just one thing to add how are you calculating your gas mileage. You said you are getting 135 miles to a tank, but how much gas did you put in? Calcualte gas mileage by dividing the miles driven by the amount of fuel put in. Over several tanks you will get an accurate indication of acutal mileage. I often fill my tank when I have gone around 150 miles and put in about 3.8 gallons for a mileage of 39 mpg. That is the number I get around town and on the highway at steady cruise of 70 mph I get about 44-46 mpg. Several factors can affect mileage like loading, wind, throttle hand, alltitude, humidity, just to name a few. If you are putting in 4 gallons (the point at which many low fuel lights come on) at 135, you are at 33.75 mpg. That would indicate a fairly rich setting in the carb.
I have an 06 Silverado, with Cobra Speedster Slash downs, Barons BAK, 170 main, needle 4th groove, PMS at 2.5 turns out, and AIS removed operating at sea level.
Capture some mileage and fuel numbers and we can see where you are.

Cruiserbob makes a good point. Before you start adjusting your carb, get an accurate reading with Miles vs Gallons.
I got 47.8mpg riding two up and full load on the rack and saddlebags, and riding with full gear on (helmets, jackets and boots).

I use dyna-beads in the tires and have them aired up with Nitrogen, plus I like to use the Shell gas that's nitrogen enriched, it does get better mileage than others. I use seafoam, 1oz per gallon about every 3rd tank full. I'm running synthetic oil (Mobil 1 full synthetic).

I was getting upper 30's to a low 40 MPG when I first bought the bike, but now it's gone up quite a bit.

I'm not taking anything away from what's been told to you by the others, I'm just saying that there are a lot of things that you can do to improve your MPG's. BTW, I like to roll the throttle a lot~!

OK I'm back, I didn't have the guts to open up the carb myself took the air cleaner off and officially got confused but in reading through the tech tips I remembered one about trimming the choke knob and I did that, trimmed a little over an 1/8th of an inch off to get just a smidge of a gap when I push it all the way in. Also I put 4 oz of sea foam in and completely topped the tank off and just ran the S#^@%T out of the bike and I got 32 mpg out of the tank, still not good milage and a buddy of mine who rides with me told me its smells like it's running really rich, should I run another tank through it and see what the milage is not driving like a maniac????

To be very honest getting into the carb seems like a little to much for me to do and really don't want to screw things up worse.

AND last but not least is there someone on here who lives around or near the memphis area willing to help a non-mechanical dork out???????? I will travel to you and buy your flavor of beer

Which way from Memphis? I'm about 90 miles East. I've been pondering tearing into mine and hey if we tear them both down then we should have enough parts....

Spare parts means you did it right .................RIGHT??


I actually live north of memphis in Munford.

You are running rich. The solution is either go back to stock OR install an aftermarket intake/filter kit = BAK (You can modify the stock one too. Look in the tech articles).

You still may have to rejet, because you don't know what you have in the carb.

It's not that hard to get into it. Take some pics of the outside and pics when you take off the float bowl on the bottom of the carb. Write notes of what you are doing.

The hardest thing is taking off the throttle barrels. Don't disconnect any wires going to the carb!

Most of what you need is in there plus the needle under the slide.

Take pics before you take things apart and you can refer to them when you get stuck.

You CAN do this.