Re:Bike runs with PMS closed all the way ? !
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TOPIC: Re:Bike runs with PMS closed all the way ? !
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Re:Bike runs with PMS closed all the way ? ! 2 Years, 6 Months ago
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texasscott1 wrote:
I saw your post the other day and thought, mine will do that too. I should have explained why at the time but didn't, sorry.
If you look at the downstream (engine side) of the carburetor you'll see 2 or 3 small holes in the area of the throttle plate. I think it's 3 but can't remember for sure. These are the outlets for the pilot jet. The one closest to the engine is controlled by the screw, the others are upstream and will flow fuel regardless of the screw position.
I believe they're there for off idle transition and are greatly affected by float level.
With my float level set at '99 specs I get a serious off idle stumble with the PMS set as low as 2 turns. It has to be at 3 1/2 turns to run smooth. With my float level set at the later model specs I can turn the pms to 1 1/2 turns which produces a lean uneven idle yet there is absolutely no off idle stumble even when cold. Also at that level the throttle feel is heavy (rich) at highway speeds.
The float level can actually be used to fine tune the jetting on your bike.
Scott--
Glad you posted this, because it's exactly what's been on my mind...but in reverse.  I have a 1700 and, despite the the fact the bike was running good and getting 46 MPG average, a few months back I decided to check float levels. Well, mine were exactly right...for the 1600 models. So, using Odo's "tower line of sight" method, I adjusted floats to 1700 levels. I promptly lost 6-10 MPG and it seems a bit of the "snappiness". I also had the accel pump nut flipped, and I changed it back to stock (at a different time than the float adjustment). Now I have a stumble off idle.
I also have the cold start problem now as well, which I never had before.
Why can't I just leave things alone when they're running great?  Oh, yeah...I'm "making it mine"...
RK
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texasscott1 (User)
Two of a kind
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Posts: 1824
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Re:Bike runs with PMS closed all the way ? ! 2 Years, 6 Months ago
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I've looked at the line of sight method and if I were to adjust my '99 like that the float level would be way high. The 1700 level would be even higher. So I can see how you would loose a bunch of mpg's
The '99 level is 2-3 mm below the rear bowl seam measured with the carburetor off the bike and level. A dealer told me that they came out with a later adjustment that allowed the level to be set with the carburetor on the bike and that's the 4-5 mm above spec.
Now, here's an easier way to adjust the level if your bike pump runs the same amount of time as mine does and you have the stock needle and seat. On my bike the computer will allow the pump to run for 6 seconds after the key is turned on. With the float set at the '99 level the pump will deliver a tad over 30 ml of fuel before shutting off. At the later level the pump will deliver 56 ml. This with the bowl off and the float at full drop.
Setting the fuel level higher increases the float travel between closed and full drop. Obviously lowering the level has the opposite effect. Incidently if one is having a problem running pumpless then total float drop could be the culprit.
I know it's a pain but with the kind of mileage you were getting it looks like you need to set it back where it was.
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My 99 Standard Test Mule
Scott B.
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Re:Bike runs with PMS closed all the way ? ! 2 Years, 6 Months ago
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Transam1 wrote:
Haven't cranked it in to get a count. I adjusted just like I
do my holley carb on the car. Did orginally have it set at
2 1/2 out and it popped through the pipes something fierce and
it would cough through the carb. Now it feels sluggish and will
darn near die when I crack the throttle. It seems to do this
worse once it warms up. Dynojets initial setup recommends 4th clip
and #195 main which is the same as a 183 Mikuni,3 1/2 turns out
on the pms and a 137 pilot. Seems very rich to me. Checked the
boots on both sides of carb. Will check with wd40 or something
tomorrow to see if I have a leak.
thanks,
chris
I am running my Dynojet needle on the 2nd grove from the top and a Mikuni 165 main and my 1700 is still a touch rich but does not bog down when I accelerate. My elevation is about 1000 feet. i am running the stock air box and carb though. I would recommend dropping the needle 1 notch and if it improves, you know you need to go in the direction of lean. All this after you have completely sealed up all the leaks of course.
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