Wish my wife ran with her PMS jet closed all the way....

fireman922 wrote:
Where is your needle now?
1/8 of a turn doesn't seem to make much if any difference on my bike.
Paul

3rd clip from blunt end. When I get to the smooth idle I can go 1/2
turn out and not see diff. in idle quality. ?
Going to hit the boot with wd40 tomorrow and make sure there isn't
still a leak.
Chris

Find the air leak first.

If you have a stumble just off idle when taking off you will need to adjust the accelerator pump no the PMS; however, it sometimes will not completely get rid of the stumble ... nature of a vacuum carb.

Doc

DocShadow wrote:
Find the air leak first.

If you have a stumble just off idle when taking off you will need to adjust the accelerator pump no the PMS; however, it sometimes will not completely get rid of the stumble ... nature of a vacuum carb.

Doc

Is it usual for the accelerator pump to need adjusting after the re-jet ? Never had this
problem before. When I crack the throttle the hesitation is severe, feels like the bike
will die. If I keep the r's up a bit no prob. just leaving a stop sign off idle it will
fall on its face.
Thanks,
Chris

Different strokes for different folks.

You use what other folks have done to get a starting point but then you need to fine tune it for your specific conditions.

Doc

DocShadow wrote:
Different strokes for different folks.

You use what other folks have done to get a starting point but then you need to fine tune it for your specific conditions.

Doc

Gotcha, Just part of the learning curve I suppose.
Thanks again,
Chris

I just had my Roadstar up in Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon for 3 weeks, Elevation around 7k. I have a dynojet kit, 175 main, 135 int, PMS 2 turns out and ran pretty good. When I came back to 1,000 feet I had to open the PMS back to 3 turns out. Not sure where my clip is but it's what dynojet recommended. Mine also still runs with the PMS all the way in, but not well. I had a 140 int jet in there but it was too big. I would goto a 175 main, 135 int, 2 turns out, and close the accel pump all the way. Once it's running ok at speed, start opening the accel pump a turn at a time until you get rid of that cough or bog off idle.

I saw your post the other day and thought, mine will do that too. I should have explained why at the time but didn't, sorry.

If you look at the downstream (engine side) of the carburetor you'll see 2 or 3 small holes in the area of the throttle plate. I think it's 3 but can't remember for sure. These are the outlets for the pilot jet. The one closest to the engine is controlled by the screw, the others are upstream and will flow fuel regardless of the screw position.

I believe they're there for off idle transition and are greatly affected by float level.

With my float level set at '99 specs I get a serious off idle stumble with the PMS set as low as 2 turns. It has to be at 3 1/2 turns to run smooth. With my float level set at the later model specs I can turn the pms to 1 1/2 turns which produces a lean uneven idle yet there is absolutely no off idle stumble even when cold. Also at that level the throttle feel is heavy (rich) at highway speeds.

The float level can actually be used to fine tune the jetting on your bike.

texasscott1 wrote:
I saw your post the other day and thought, mine will do that too. I should have explained why at the time but didn't, sorry.

If you look at the downstream (engine side) of the carburetor you'll see 2 or 3 small holes in the area of the throttle plate. I think it's 3 but can't remember for sure. These are the outlets for the pilot jet. The one closest to the engine is controlled by the screw, the others are upstream and will flow fuel regardless of the screw position.

I believe they're there for off idle transition and are greatly affected by float level.

With my float level set at '99 specs I get a serious off idle stumble with the PMS set as low as 2 turns. It has to be at 3 1/2 turns to run smooth. With my float level set at the later model specs I can turn the pms to 1 1/2 turns which produces a lean uneven idle yet there is absolutely no off idle stumble even when cold. Also at that level the throttle feel is heavy (rich) at highway speeds.

The float level can actually be used to fine tune the jetting on your bike.

No problemo,
Got her figured out, seems I had a leak on the boot to manifold. Got her sealed up
and now am running #175 main, 135 pilot,Needle 3rd groove from blunt end and 2 1/2 turns
out on the pms. Got right around 50mph on my last ride on the highway avg. between
55mph and 70 mph. I can live with that. Only problem I seem to have is a reluctance
for the bike to start below 30 degrees even on full choke.
Thanks,
Chris

Transam1 wrote:
texasscott1 wrote:
I saw your post the other day and thought, mine will do that too. I should have explained why at the time but didn't, sorry.

If you look at the downstream (engine side) of the carburetor you'll see 2 or 3 small holes in the area of the throttle plate. I think it's 3 but can't remember for sure. These are the outlets for the pilot jet. The one closest to the engine is controlled by the screw, the others are upstream and will flow fuel regardless of the screw position.

I believe they're there for off idle transition and are greatly affected by float level.

With my float level set at '99 specs I get a serious off idle stumble with the PMS set as low as 2 turns. It has to be at 3 1/2 turns to run smooth. With my float level set at the later model specs I can turn the pms to 1 1/2 turns which produces a lean uneven idle yet there is absolutely no off idle stumble even when cold. Also at that level the throttle feel is heavy (rich) at highway speeds.

The float level can actually be used to fine tune the jetting on your bike.

No problemo,
Got her figured out, seems I had a leak on the boot to manifold. Got her sealed up
and now am running #175 main, 135 pilot,Needle 3rd groove from blunt end and 2 1/2 turns
out on the pms. Got right around 50mph on my last ride on the highway avg. between
55mph and 70 mph. I can live with that. Only problem I seem to have is a reluctance
for the bike to start below 30 degrees even on full choke.
Thanks,
Chris

That's EXACTLY what I was talking about in the "Bike Won't Start" post. You're in Grants, I was in Gallup and couldn't start the damn bike for the life of me...had to get starting fluid & jumper cables! You're pretty much at my same carb settings I have on the carb now....I'm gonna rip into it and play with some things, because I didn't have this problem last year, and I know of two things I've changed: float level & accel pump.

I'll keep you posted (pun intended)

RK