Just to add somtiing here, dont forget to run an oil with a known decnet zddp lvl (1200-1400ppm)for safe flat tappet cam orperation .

Loook for approx 1200-1400ppm zddp at a minimum which many std over the counter pass car motor oils mfg today dont have anymore,even the hevier grades that were not supposed to hae reduced zddp lvls do have just that ,redeuced zddp lvl's,most are typically 800-850ppm zddp & is too low for flat tappets.

The bike oils seem to all still have the required zddp lvls esp the v-twin oils so be aware of that .

And for your new cam/lifter use a good assembly lube like the grey moly past you would use for flat tappet cam breakin with car motor on the cam lobes and lifter bottoms only for breakin of you R*'s new cam & lifters.

Ensure you have an oil with good zddp lvl fornew cam/lifter breakin along with the good assembly lube when you get it fired up 1st time.

Also,dont let it idle low durring 1st 20-30 mins ,try to get it fired up and if running well get right on the bike and take it out on back roads and cruise to keep oilpressure and ,more oil sling going on,and motor cool for new caqm lifter breakin.

Then after like 30 mins driving take it home and change the oil and filter to remove any contam/small metallic particles that got into the motor and oiling system from the new cam/lifter breakin.

Remember,with a flat tappet cam'd v-twin you should really avoid oils with low zddp/Zinc & Phos lvls like 800ppm in most of toadys pass car oils vs what's needed like 1200-1400ppm for proper protection .

The heavier grade pass oils were not mandated for zddp redcutions but nfotunately most oil mfgs reduced the zddp vlv in the heavier grade pass cr oils too,had them tested to verfy that fact,also gt confirmation from oil mfg's that would come fourth wth that info.

Valvoline makes a decent conventional 20-50 V-twin oil thats readily avail with proper zddp lvl and for safe flat tappet cam operation & no firction midifiers to hurt clutch too.

spectro also mfgs a good bike oil in conetional and sime/full syn too that avail in maby bike shops or online.

Yes i realize many of you are trying to save a few $ by using pass car oil in you R* but you have to be very carfull when doing that due to as you know the firction modifiers that are generally found in lower visc oils but make it into a few heavier grades at time too thay you may not be aware of.

And that's not to also mention the fact that the most pass car oils even in heavy grades like 20-50 dont have the porper zddp lvls anymore to properly protect the flat tappet cams in your v-twing bike motors and that can do mpore damage then just causing clutch slippage whic snt a big deal to fix.

But a prematurly worn out cams/lfiers along with prematurly worn cyls/rings etc from using a low zddp oil in an older design old school air cooled v-twin that can really benefit from an oil with a decent zddp pkg can reduce you big v-twing service life over yrs/miles,thats for sure.

Remeber,the air cooled v-twin design was in place many yrs ago when all oils had solid zddp pkgs to properly protect the valvetrains etc in those motors and zddp is helpfull to just about any internal combustion engine.

thye zaddp was removed from oils for 1 reason only ,it fouls cat converters at approx 100k mles and epa wants cats to be warrentee'd pats 100k miles so the car mfgs had the oil mfgs sig lower zddplvls to satisfy that requesst.

and toadys motors with much lighter overhead valvetrains and motors with roller lifters dont need higher zddp lvls like out v-twing need and olde pass cars motors needed with flat tappet cams.

For me i dont mind paying $3.95 a qt for valvolines conven 20-50 or even up to $8 a qt for spectro's semi or full syn oil to ensure the flat tappet cam in my R*'s big v-Twin is propely protected with a decent zddp/zinc & Phos pkg of at least 1200-1400ppm vs taking chances on running pass car oils many of which dont have pproper zddp for flat tappet cam proetction. And thats putting asside the fiction modifiyer issue too,why take the chance to save approx $10-12 on an oil change you do 1x or maybe 2x yrly.

And on the shell rotella conventional 15w-40 diesle oil i tested in the newer CJ Low emissions version,it has lower 1050-100ppm zddp vs chevrons delo 15w-40 diesle oil that has 1300ppm zddp per oil testing i did and also per chevrons website too.

So if your running diesel oils i would run the delo over the rotella for better flat tappet cam protection & the delo oil is also offered in conve & syn grades which has earned a great rep among the big rig and farmming industry over the yrs too.

Like the old fram oil filter commercial used to say," you can pay now or you can pay later " /LOL!!!!

I am just trying to help you out with oil testing /research i have done over past 3 yrs for the classic car/muscle car crowd and not trying to start any great oil debate or ruffle anyones feathers by any means thatvare suggesting the rotella oil. I am just stating facts obtained from oi tests and from oil engineer from oil mfg's i spoke to on the subject & are passing it aong for you guys to munch on.

I hope this post doesnt disappear like the last time i posted it trying to get some updated oil info out here to all you guys here in RSC. I say that because when i went back to see if i had any questions or comment from you guys on that info i posted it was gone,why i dont know because it didnt violate any rules i read here about posting.

Good luck with your new cam/lifter install.

Scott