Over the last weekend I installed my Hi-velocity ported heads with Singh Grooves, Wiseco HC pistons and new car lifters suggested here. The bike runs great and is noticeably faster to me.

I pumped up the lifters with SeaFoam before installation and did the bleed-down described in the Tech section and Clymer's service manual. I used a break-in grease on all new parts.

I installed 10W-40 grade (non-energy conserving) Quaker State oil for the break-in period with a new filter.

I went to buy a dial gauge to adjust the rocker arm fingers and could not find one that measures into the 1000ths (few places carry them). Sears has one that measures to the 100ths for $35 and I did not want to go with that one.

I adjusted the rocker arms by hand using a 4mm open-end wrench and feeling the adjustment screw as it touched the valve stem, then tightening the lock nut with the 10mm box end.

I can't seem to get thing as quiet as before. I suppose that even a slight turn on the adjustment screw will bring the finger up a few 1000ths and cause clicking. What is the best way for me to proceed?

Thanks,
Ray

Bump

Just a thought, but I don't know that quiet should be the goal so much as a proper adjustment. I thought mine were noisy, and did it myself by the very same method, turning the adjuster until it made contact. After all, our lifters are hydraulic, and there should be no valve lash, since the lifters pump up and take it all out every time anyway... so the goal should be to have the rockers making contact with the valve stem at the same place and point in time. And they still make the very same noise!

Anyone else know differently?

Never ajusted them on my r* but I know how I did it on a 350 chevy. Get them close like you did using the book method and do a fine adjustment while its running. Just enough until the noise stops. As was already said they are hyd lifters. And hyd lifters are pretty forgiving.

Just a dumb question but are you sure it's valve noise from the valve train and not from the valves snapping shut?

Also, I reviewed the article on setting the valves. I'm not sure I would be too concerned about getting a dial indicator that reads in the '000ths.Run with you you brung and it should be fine. All that the dial indicator is used for is needed is to ensure that a consistent reading is reached; the actual reading itself isn't the issue, so you don't need to pay big $$ for that type of accuracy. Besides, with hydraulic lifters it's OK to be a hair tighter.

Thanks for the bump BB

They were noisier Sunday. About two thirds to half as noisy today.

My dad helped me remove the rocker covers & spacers to adjust the lash.

It did help some, but they were much quieter before I swapped the heads out.

I guess I should just find a Dial Gauge and bite the bullet.

The adjustment would the closest with that method.

Mr Tidy's Method

I have never heard of using a dial indicator for adjusting valve clearance. It is normally done with a feeler gage. We have one rocker that operates two valves, that is why the adjustment. The "primary" valve is taken care of by the hydralics while the "secondary" valve has the adjustment.

I have the same issue with my R* and am about to think that the noise is normal. The last time I adjusted mine I noticed that there was a little side to side movement of the rocker arms and figure that some of the noise is coming from that. I'm not sure if that is good or not, I don't know what the specs are for that movement. It isn't much but it makes a noise when you move them. I have 63000 miles on my 2004 and have had the clicking since I bought it new.

Sundance

Found the dial indicator at Harbor Freight for $15 about 1/2 hour from work.

Of course I'll have to ride my scoot to break in the new HC piston rings.

Dial Indicator

Guess I'll try that route and let you know how I make out after the adjustment (probably this Saturday).