I know a lot of riders are moving the crankcase tube to a different location after they do an airbox upgrade, and adding a seperate filter. I put mine up front to one of the screws that held part of the AIS. The reason is as followed. I got this info from a friend, and this was only one of the reasons I put it up-front, and I liked the look of it there better then by the rear horn. It's a little long, but, oh well.

First, the definition of a road draft tube. A "road draft tube" was the prominent way of relieving the crankcase of blow by fumes in the pre-emission control days. The idea was simple. Because the crankcase becomes pressurized due to expanding gases that leak past the rings in the compression and power cycles, it is necessary to vent the crankcase to atmosphere to relieve the pressure. In early engines, this vent took the form of a hole in the block from which a tube (like a dipstick tube, only upside down) protruded and faced down at the ground but cut at a bologna tipped angle with the pointed end so that as the vehicle was driven it would be to the left or right of the vehicle. As the car drove, the slip stream of air passing the end of the tube would "suck" the fumes out of the block. This works well if you do not have a reed or flutter valve in the tube or near the block. This system was abandoned because the faster you went the more suck or vacuum was placed on the tube end of the system and if the tube was short enough or you went fast enough the vacuum will suck oil out of the engine. Usually this oil being sucked out when the system was operated correctly (normal highway speed) was not that much and more so than anything else the oil evacuation although small was messy and filthy and the car always smelled like burning oil. Adding a reed valve to limit the venting to when the pressure rises to unacceptable levels (every pulse of power of every piston, very constant, very rapid) opens when the pressure reaches a calibrated amount and closes when it drops so the escaping blow by is mainly vapor and by routing it into the air cleaner this small amount of polluted air is burned off with engine combustion making for a cleaner by product. The later is how all modern engines work including the Yammy engine, we know it as the PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) or pollution control systems of the 1976 to current engine designs.
When you place the redesigned Yammy vent into the air stream to the side or down & sideways in the air stream you run the risk that if you are going fast enough and the reed valve opens you create a road draft effect where the extra vacuum will pull a lot more oil & pressure out of the engine. Evacuating the oil all at once has very obvious consequences however, reducing the amount of needed pressure to too low a number will slowly do more damage only take longer as the excess negative pressure will suck raw fuel past the moving rings and scrape the cylinder harder. This means an engine with 50,000 miles may have the wear of a 100,000 mile engine. It makes much more sense to place the open loop system of the breather you attach in such a way as to not be in the slip stream and not with the side of the old fashioned breather facing the air, hence mount it in front with the top facing forward to minimize the possibility of causing an issue

WOW, I'm impressed with the logic. Hope it works as well as it sounds. Thanks for the input.