well sinse they are all technically 'flooded wet cell batteries, they are 2Vpc (per cell)
and 6 cell in series is 12V. a fully charged and rested battery should measure ~12.5V
and is dead at 10.5V (1.75Vpc). this goes for ANY design be it agm or gell.
the difference is physical durability.
what differ's for AHr capacity is the surface area of the plates, the more area the greater the AHR supply it can produce, but more area means thinner more delicate plates.
and with one you have to fill yourself, you only need to cover the plates.
there is a high/low fill line, on first fill you should go to the high line.
and yes you do need to be careful the fill tube
doesnt flick acid at your friend when you remove it.
i use the 3 finger folding pinch method.
now a *new battery should be slow charged at 1/10C initially, and C is NOT
the CCA but the continuous AHr draw.
C is the term you will see for all battery designs used to defign either
the charge or discharge rate measured in AmpHours and is not related to CCA
Cold Cranking Amps, nor can CCA be calculated from it.
MY stock battery has an 18AHr value, this is the # to go by for calculating C
so a slow 1/10C charge rate is 1.8AHr (yes 2AHr is fine) and it should take 9Hrs
to fully charge. BUT chargers are generally stupid which i will get to shortly.
in order to charge a battery you have to have a higher voltage from the source
which is with a typical alternator/generator is set up, under loaded condition
to produce 13.8V or there abouts, and sinse a dead 10.5V battery has a greater
'difference' in potential voltage. think of it as if it were pressure in a tank,
the 2 tanks connected want to balance eachother, if they are the same value then
nothing flows between them, so if a battery's voltage increases with it's state of charge
te ammount of current flowing into it decreases over time relative to it's state of charge
so althou the numbers calculate 9Hrs @ 1.8AHr rate (1/10C), because the voltage of the
battery goes up the rate of charge goes down, and the 'fuller' the battery's state of charge the slower the charge rate occurs.
ok so you should allways slow charge a new battery, at ~ 1/10C for atleast 24Hrs.
prior to putting it into service.
a better battery charger has a smart circuit that will vary the output voltage
relative to the state of charge, ramping the V up as the battery charges, cutting this rate down as the battery becomes ~90% full with a lower rate inorder to top it off.
BUT the device in use never gets this kind of babying treatment, which is why
like changing the engine lube, batteries should also be 'maintained' for maximum service life.
OK so if you read this far, and you THINK you might even be pulling 170AHr at a cold start crank the weakest link IS the wire Gauge and the connections.
a 4Ga wire is good for 100AHr @12VDC at 10feet and SHOULD SUFFICE at handling 200AHr
for cranking the starter BUT what i see on the bike is a small ground cable aswell as the ground, or return path through the engine as being severly taxing to the system. so before you go crazy with a
HC engine (which does have compression breaking circuit that may not be functioning correctly),
try taking a half a jumper cable from battery - to the starter and see if it makes a difference.
if it does then you need to beef up the return path with a second wire aswell as it wont hurt to up the B+ wire to a 2Ga.
and once you make nice clean connections spray a silicon sealant to the area, somthing for batteries or even plastic dip in a spray. or just flat black rustoleum paint even...
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The stock cable provides way too much resistance for any prolonged cranking/heavy load, which is also hard on your starter motor. I upgraded all mine with high quality tinned copper 4 ga. cable and lugs, made a huge difference!
