I wouldn't say the cops are there to hassle you, just to keep order, if they were no there, too many riders would over-ride go left of their center and hit someone enjoying the ride in own lane head on.
Laws and rules govern a society, where people ignore them, they need a little help. LEOS
We went on a week day and it was nothing less than fantastic. Hardly a Cop. Maybe one.
The night before I read on the net about all the head on's and since i could not control that part of the risk, I almost chickened out for the lack of proper gear for such a hit. It was that Crazy Schatzie that talked me into going. (I was afraid I would get hit head

on and scratch her legs on the fall.

She was like, we came all this way, we're riding it!
I tucked in behind a Can Am Spyder and ran is just like she did (Yes she) used her as a blocker. We got a great ride out of it.
I seriously doubt it's as much fun on a weekend.
But, I would not go if it's closed. What's the point. Maybe a July trip in order. Weekday.
I talked to a former TOD
LEO at breakfast one morning while we were there, he said there are nightmare stories days long to tell them about that stretch.