I have had several questions about the DYNA coil mount I did last weekend, so I thought I would try my hand at a how to article. I am not a professional wrench nor am I an author so bear with me and please feel free to make any suggestions or constructive criticism.
* Before this mod can be done you must first relocate the fuel pump. I used the Barons relocation kit and put mine behind the right side cover. There is also an article here that will give you instructions to do this without a kit.

* Remove the Seat and Gas Tank.

First I'll give you the parts list:

1- Harley style Coil mount with hole for the ignition switch. (I bought mine on
EBAY, just do a search for coil mount and/or coil bracket)
1- 12" x 3" x .125: Stainless flat stock. (Metal supermarkets has a store near me
so this was easy to get.http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/
2- DYNATECH Dual output 2.2ohm coils - part# DC4-1
1- DYNATECH wire kit - part# DW800
2- M6-1 x 20mm cap screws
4- M6-1 nuts
2- #6-32 x 1/4" brass screws
1- 1/2" x 1 1/2" Fender washer
6- ft. 12 gauge multistrand (I used red and blue, you can use whatever color suits
you)
3- ft. wire loom
4- 12 gauge male spade connectors
4- 12 gauge ring terminals
1- Rattle can Dupli-color Auto paint (match paint to your bike color)
1- Rattle can Adhesion promote



Now that you have all the parts together, the first thing I did was to fabricate the bracket to hold the coil mount. The bracket needs to be bent to 90*. I did this by sandwiching one end (about two inches of it) between two bocks of wood in the vise, and muscling the other end. It came out with a pretty good bend.
Then cut the bracket according to the measurements in the picture, keep in mind these measurements will not be exact, you will have to do a little grinding and trimming here and there. The last cut you make should be the end holding the coil bracket, because yours may be different.



While I was fabricating the bracket, I was also spraying the coils with paint. The adhesion promoter is required when painting a plastic surface. Before painting the coils use some emory cloth to sand the gloss off of the factory finish, this will help your paint to stick. I sprayed 3 coats of adhesion promoter and 4 or 5 coats of paint.

It is necessary to remove the choke cable from the carburetor at this point, you will need a 14mm wrench. I had to remove the carb form the manifold to get to the cable connection. Be careful when you take this nut loose as there is a spring on the end of the cable, don't loose it.

Now, you need to drill and tap the back side of the coil mount. Lay the fender washer into the backside of the coil mount and mark the holes for drilling. Be careful not to drill all the way thru. Tap the holes you've drilled with a #6-32 thread tap and secure the washer to the coil mount with the two #6-32 brass screws.






Attach the coil mount to the bracket you built and reattach the Choke cable to the carb. Put the DYNA coils in the mount. Make sure that you have enough clearance behind the coil mount to remove the coils. You don't want to have to remove the mount just to get the coils out.

Now it's time to remove the stock coils, before you remove the electrical connections, make a note of the wire colors. These wires have no polarity, so it does not matter which side of the DYNA coil you attach them to, but you want to make sure you have the correct wires on the correct coil. (i.e. front and back cylinder).
Using the 12 gauge wire and the male spade connectors, make the connections to the stock wiring on the backbone. Wrap your wires in the wire loom and run them down the backbone and under the coil bracket you built. Crimp the ring terminals on this end and make the connections on the coils. Use cable ties to secure your new wiring.
Follow the directions provided with your DYNA coils and wire kit to cut and crimp the spark plug wires to length.
Reinstall the fuel tank and check for clearance between the bottom of the tank and the new coil bracket. I had to tweek mine a little bit to get the clearance so the tank did not rub. Connect the fuel line and fire it up, to make sure she still runs before you reinstall the instrument cluster and seat.







I know a lot of guys like to relocate the fuel pump to clean up this side of the motor, but I think this gives the bike more of the hotrod look.

<br><br>Post edited by: slowpoke, at: 2007/06/27 14:27

Well done!

Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

I was wondering how you 'got' red coils.

Doc