Got my 2.5 needle, going to wait until after spring start up with the fuel pump on before changing the needle and re adjusting the float bowl level.

My bike has been re jetted close enough to stock and the article says: "anybody who's modified their carbs for larger fuel capacity should change the needle valve."

I'm still close enough to stock jetting why would I need to change the needle valve after discarding the fuel pump?

By changing the needle valve would reserve light still come in at the same spot
(miles left before empty)?

Hitting the REV LIMITER earlier after jetting BAK and pipes. Well we burn fuel and air easier with more power to hit the ignition box limit earlier. I don't understand why the investigation? change to a Dyna? Please elaberate. What does the rev limit have to do with the needle valve assembly?

D,

Hi , , me again, . I'll try to give you my take on this.

Even with the stock seat/needle. Once you get rid of the fuel pump, you don't have enough 'gravity flow', even for the stock jetting setup. It'll 'starve' for gas at higher than cruising. Some folks have tried this and could not get a reliable flow even at 70.

Reserve light should still come on at the 'same' spot. The gas sending unit is the one that tells when there's about 1 gallon left in the gas tank. In 'my' experiemnts, (with the 2.5 seat/needle), I never had a problem with the 'reserve'. Acted the same way as the stock seat/needle, was in it.

The new seat/needle hasn't anything to do with hitting the rev limiter. Your mods for a better induction system makes the rev limiter quicker to hit with the stock ignition box. That's why the 3000.
Now, with the advent of the new seat/needle, no fuel pump and stock rev limiter. It just hits the rev limiter, 'quick', 'but', it's gonna do that with the stock seat/needle and the stock fuel pump.
In both circumstance the 3000 lets us up the rev limiter, 'and' has the benefit of an adjustable ignition curve.

Hope this helps,

Joel (Odo)

Odo,

Just got the new float valve in the mail today. Can this be changed while the carburetor is on the bike? I have Baron's mods in my carburetor which includes the hex head float bowl screws. I haven't looked closely yet but was wondering if I couldn't just jack it up, remove the float bowl and with a little standing on my head, change it out! What do you think?

Pat

Pat,

Yes it can, 'BUT', it's very hard to get the holding screw/washer out without dropping it, that holds in the seat/needle. It can be done, but REAL care must be taken to insure that it's not dropped and lost.

Also, the float 'may' need adjusting after the installation of the new seat/needle. Mine had to be readjusted.

Joel (Odo)

Hadn't thought about that! Probably would be wise to take the carb off the bike to replace the valve. Thanks for the advice and have a great Christmas!

Pat

Pat,

I pray you and yours have a great Christmas and New Years ! !

Joel

Thanks Joel the article was a little foggy in my mind as I am no real mechanic as you know and also how I interpret instruction makes it difficult. Couple more questions?

Is it easy to strip that little brass screw that holds the needle assembly?

What happens to engine performance when the float is out of adjustment high and low?

Even with Grams patience and reading articles I don't understand how to use the tool for measuring of the float bowl. I'm going to have to buy the Yami tool that way I'll understand maybe.

HAPPY HOLERDAYS

Draco,

The little set screw for the seat/needle 'can' be stripped, but your more likely to strip the phillips head itself if yout tighten too tough. Wont need any loctite, it's pretty much a 'pressure' screw that wedges against a flat washer that wedges against the seat/needle. It's held very well under tension.

Haven't tested high/low settings with the new seat/needle. Just set the float at dead even with the mating surface of the float bowl to carb body. Didn't have a problem with it, 'so', never went any farther for testing.

Tool? You mean checking the float 'level'? It's just a small clear plastic modeling tube, and loosening the float drain bolt. Running the tube 'up' the side of the rear portion of the carb 'shows' you where the gas level is, (per how the floats are shutting off the gas coming into the bowl).

Joel

Its just a plain old clear tube? I thought there was a measurement to it in mm? anywho thanks again for clearing the fog! it sounds much easier to adjust the float by having it level with the bowl level that meets the carb when I have it appart and dry.

You can do the mm thing, but to me, it's not that critical. The clear 'tube' is all that's needed to get the desired level. The Yamaha tool is nothing more than a glorified clear tube, .

If you have a manual, Chapter 6 explains the float level check. It's just a tad wrong about 'where' to check it. You try to get the tube along the side to the 'rear' most position you can see the level. The float is angled higher at the rear, and that's where you want to check it. Also, for the 04's +, the level is NO MORE 'higher' than .200 from the mating surface of the float bowl to carb body. For the 99 to 03's the level is dead even or NO MORE than .100 'lower' than the mating surface.

Clear as mud, LOL ? ? ?