After being thoroughly befuddled and confused about the number of friction plates that are required (Barnett gives you an extra one in case you want to replace the one in the clutch boss, I guess), I've now got the basket filled with plates, the pull rod and pressure plate installed and I'm about to put it all back together. So, here's my question: How do you get the pull rod to engage with the pull lever shaft?

I've yet to even make an attempt to fit the clutch cover back on. The pull rod just seems to kinda hang in the hole of the pressure plate by the gentle force of how viscous the oil is and even a slight bump pops it off the back of the pressure plate and it then falls out of center with the hole.

Maybe it will just all fall into place, but that's not been my experience wrenching. So I figured I'd post the question and see if there's a simple answer. These pictures show how I think it should be to reinstall and then how I expect it will end up if only slightly touched by anything at all.

Correct
Incorrect

Anyone who might offer up a tip on this is more than welcome to do so.

Thanks,

-M7

M7:

Believe it or not, your Correct photo shows how it's supposed to be. You just need to make sure that your teeth are aligned correctly(to the right) as you slide the cover back on. You should see the shaft turn as it engages and the teeth catch as the cover slips back on.

I know, it's a weird design and takes quite a bit of patience. But, it will go back on smoothly. Remember, if you have to force it, it's not on right.

Good luck.


Rich

Let us know how you like the clutch set. Did you get the heavy duty springs?

Tampa is right been in there 4 times last week. Autoclutch x3 Barnett back in and staying. You can turn the shaft by hand counter clockwise to help walk it on. Don't force it it will pop into place when the stars align LOL You might feel that way but it isn't that bad.

I'm actually going to re-install the OEM friction plates and maybe sell the Barnett ones on ebay, or maybe here.

The manual I have says that the double notches on the stock plates need to be aligned with a couple of dots on the housing. I can't find any dots, but that may be because I'm installing on a 1700 and the manual is for a 1600. Advice?

One last thing....the old gasket is stuck like concrete in lots of places on the face of the aluminum housing. The tool I'm using to scrape it off is a wood chisel (it's taking that sharp edge to get the bits of gasket to release from the face). Problem is the tool is harder than the aluminum and I must be very careful and slow or I'll mark the face. Any suggestions to make the gasket release more easily?

-M7

Get you a can of acetone and coat the gasket that is stuck by brushing it on and use a hard plastic putty knife to scrape it off. It may take a few applications to get it all off but it is better than a chisel.

Thanks Curt!!

-M7

Unless you have a 2008 or newer it should have two dots it will be on the slot looking down. On fuel injected I read something changed not sure exactly what. Memory is not as good these days.

Im doing the same thing, and had he same question. I have been trying to get it to go in right for 3 days, I dont have any more time as its my ride to work so I am putting all the factory stuff back in and try it again next week. Maybe. I think I need some shims, but I have no idea what they look like. Someone post a picture.

Thanks Makcap,

I finally found the alignment marks and the basket is all buttoned up with the new pressure plate. I'm now waiting to see if the gasket remover stuff I bought will actually work. I'm not optimistic, but figured I'd give it a shot.

-M7