I am at the point that I want to ignore myself as well.

That answers something for me then. When the bike frame is leveled off the back mating surface is much higher than the front. I will try that next and repost.

Thanks for the info....

Huygens

Don't know if this will help, but it may be worth checking. Found this while following a link from an unrelated post; http://weislake.com/sig/mucker/carbslide.htm

Good luck!!

In The Wind,
Aaron

Sorry if this doesn't come across as a direct link. Still trying to figure that out!!

BTW; I did this same mod a few weeks ago and the only problem I've run into is having to switch to reserve before the fuel light comes on. Bike coughs and sputters, I switch to reserve and a few miles later the fuel light comes on. I haven't vented the gas cap though, so I'm wondering if that would correct the problem.

Post edited by: 2005Roadstar, at: 2007/05/21 10:28<br><br>Post edited by: 2005Roadstar, at: 2007/05/21 10:55

Huygens, I am the one who posted the &quot;flow rates&quot; for fuel flow with &amp; without vented gas cap. I am using the stock petcock &amp; the same size rubber tubing as stock (just better quality !). My bike has a K&amp;N filter in a yamaha billet airbox, no AIS, no fuel pump and, until recently, modified stock exhaust. It'll wrap the speedometer even with the windshield on. I suspect that one of two things is happening to you. Either

a) as Doc suspects something in your main jet &quot;circuit&quot; is not right. This is the circuit of the carb that comes into play from about 3/4 throttle to full throttle. It is not so much a matter of RPM as throttle position. If you keep the bike under 3/4 throttle will it eventually hit higher speeds ? Does it display the same problem in lower gears, or just 5th ? Can you run it right up to near redline &amp; hold it there in a lower gear without fuel starvation ? How do you have the fuel line run ? Is it directly from the petcock to the carb &amp; is it reasonably level ? If you remove the drain screw from the carb does the fuel run out ? If you remove the bowl does the fuel run when you drop the floats &amp; stop when you lift them ? Are the screws on top of the carb tight, &amp; is the rubber diaphragm seated properly ? Is your main jet completely drilled through (don't laugh, it's happened). Is the needle jet installed properly ?

b) Something else is messed up that is fooling you into chasing a carb problem that may not exist. How old are the plugs ? Do you have good spark ? Do you have any air leaks or open hoses ? How is the oil level ? Too much oil can cause weird problems at higher rpm's. If you changed the air box, are you sure you removed/capped/replaced all the hoses, etc. Check everything over to ease your mind and confirm that it's a carb problem.

I once chased a similar problem for a month in my GSX-R1100, only to eventually determine that the spark plugs were to blame. I almost drove myself crazy !! If you think it a pain taking off one carb, try pulling FOUR CARBS out 20 or 30 times !! It's enough to make you insame . . . . . sorry . . . it still hurts . . . .

Rup

Ok.....

It appears that if I followed directions better I would have saved myself a lot of problems.

I was setting the float to the front of the carbs mating surface. At DocShadow's advice, I took the carb back off and reset the float in a vice and guaged the setting by the back of the carbs mating surface. Problem resolved. Bike accelerates fine all the way through 5th gear. I probably need to raise it a bit higher though. When accelerating wot at the top of 5th it will act like it is running out of gas. Being that I dont need to run it like this with every acceleration, I will probably wait till I have a reason to pull the carb off again.

Thanks all for the various comments. The help was greatly appreciated.

Huygens....<br><br>Post edited by: huygens, at: 2007/05/26 11:59

If you are running a Mikuni 175 main then you're probably correct, you could bump the float up 2 mm or so.

If you're running a DJ 175 main then try a 180.

Doc

I know this is an old thread, but I just have a question. If I do this mod, do I have to go without the pump. What if I use the 2.5 and keep the pump? Thanks guys.

Thats fine the float controls the amount in the bowl the needle controls the speed ...Coug

Thx for the quick comeback. Is this mod worth the doing. I have tried dialing in my PMS, but I still get a carb cough, goosing at 70mph and above while using 1/4 throttle. I had it jetted at the stealership so I don't know the size of needles. I know what they did has gotten rid of the backfire through the exhaust. I have had to run with slight &quot;choke&quot; since they jetted it. I thought I was lean and Doc suggested backing out the PMS. I did about 1/2 turn and the number three plug fuel fouled. I am at my wits end and am ready to beg Yamaha for a kit to outfit my RS with FI . I am not mechanical but I have you guys and a repair manual, so I am willing to go this. That is, when I find the Suzuki part.
Thx

grgj258 wrote:
I had it jetted at the stealership so I don't know the size of needles.

You should really find out what your jetting is before you try fixing something that might not be the problem. My .6 cents anywho.

The larger float needle valve Suzuki part # 13370-08F50 can be found here ...at checkout use the minus sign to bring the # of needles to 1 @33.47 a per valve when you check out reduce the nuber of valves by using the - Minus sign..... looks like they are making you buy 4 at a time...Coug

http://www.motogrid.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/1/default.aspx