here you go twotone

barnett clutch spring conversion here

yamaha clutch spring here

Barnett SR2 DEFINITELY the way go for the spring. $130.00 every day on Ebay. A local shop here matched the ebay price, I still paid taxes but kept my money local which is important to me. My stock plates have 76K miles on them, I have tried to make them slip with the new spring and cant do it ... oh and thats with the standard springs.

my 1/2 pennies worth.

Rod

Booster wrote:
Looks like Doc V is asking about clutch plates not the spring plate, I would stay stock as others have said.

Yah, actually I was just referring to the plates, not the spring. It sounds like the stock kit is the way to go.

I was considering the Stage IV Yami spring, it's still a diaphragm, which makes the whole jobs a lot easier. Not to mention, about $50-$60 less and, personally, I was perfectly happy with my doubled up diaphragms.

Just out of curiosity, for those who have done the Barnett conversion, how did you go about securing the clutch basket in order to remove the nut, and torque it back down to 50ft. lbs.? I don't have access to air tools and buying the special tool to hold the clutch basket is just another added expense. At that point, you're talking more like $70 -$80 more than stage IV diaphragm spring.

Twotone: FYI- this is what the stock spring looks like:


Here's what it looks like on the bike:


And this is the Barnett:

Everything I've read over the yrs has been to stick with OEM plates, if they are out of spec.

I have 139k on my plates, with 90k of that running with a double-up spring plate. I used a spring plate from a Virago1100 on top of stock spring plate. still doesn't slip. I even tried last week to get it to slip.

Doc_V wrote:
Just out of curiosity, for those who have done the Barnett conversion, how did you go about securing the clutch basket in order to remove the nut, and torque it back down to 50ft. lbs.? I don't have access to air tools and buying the special tool to hold the clutch basket is just another added expense. At that point, you're talking more like $70 -$80 more than stage IV diaphragm spring.

Not sure if you just mean the Barnett spring kit conversion here or not. If that is what you are asking about there is no need to remove the large nut.

Now if you are talking about the entire clutch pack and for some reason the Barnett system for this requires you to remove the basket then there is a really good tip in the Tech Tips section.

A ratchet strap is wrapped around the basket and secured at the other end to the frame. Wrapping one way around the basket allows you to loosen the nut. Wrap the other way for tightening.

Hope this helps. AT

Edit: I can't seem to find that pic of the strap around the clutch basket....not sure where i saw that now.

http://roadstarclinic.com/galleries/displayimage.php?album=32&pos=3

Here's the picture of the clutch basket and associated file

That's it. Thanks for helping out GS.

OK, I'm schooled, thanks

About_Time wrote:
Doc_V wrote:
Just out of curiosity, for those who have done the Barnett conversion, how did you go about securing the clutch basket in order to remove the nut, and torque it back down to 50ft. lbs.? I don't have access to air tools and buying the special tool to hold the clutch basket is just another added expense. At that point, you're talking more like $70 -$80 more than stage IV diaphragm spring.

Not sure if you just mean the Barnett spring kit conversion here or not. If that is what you are asking about there is no need to remove the large nut.

Now if you are talking about the entire clutch pack and for some reason the Barnett system for this requires you to remove the basket then there is a really good tip in the Tech Tips section.

A ratchet strap is wrapped around the basket and secured at the other end to the frame. Wrapping one way around the basket allows you to loosen the nut. Wrap the other way for tightening.

Hope this helps. AT

Edit: I can't seem to find that pic of the strap around the clutch basket....not sure where i saw that now.


If you replacing the disk and plates. The reason the basket must come out is there are a disk and plate that need to come out. They are held in by a wire not bad to get in and out. So that is why you need to remove the basket. If just the spring conversion your fine.

Harbor freight has a cig plug lug impact with torque settings. 29.99 Great for the car to, works great on this part if you don't have air.

Makcap wrote:

If you replacing the disk and plates. The reason the basket must come out is there are a disk and plate that need to come out. They are held in by a wire not bad to get in and out. So that is why you need to remove the basket. If just the spring conversion your fine.

Harbor freight has a cig plug lug impact with torque settings. 29.99 Great for the car to, works great on this part if you don't have air.

I'm a little confused, from the looks of the diagram below, there doesn't appear to be anything behind the basket. I just thought you had to remove the nut on the basket to remove the clutch boss if you're doing the Barnett spring conversion. Am I missing something here?

P.S. Tanks for the tip on the impact gun, that might be worth getting just to keep on hand.