Hey everyone,
I was hoping to get a jetting layout before I even open the carb and see if it has been touched. I got the bike a while back and I removed the AIS and it seems that when I let off the gas I get a like diesel jack brake sound from the exhaust. Not sure if I am running rich or what, never really messed with carb stuff and was thinking of ordering the proper stuff before I open he up to do so. I am currently running Vance and Hines long shots with the baffles removed I believe, and a Barons BAK. My elevation is anywhere between 700-1200. Thanks ahead of time guys, any info is helpful and greatly appreciated.
Chad

Running no baffles you are going to get that sound more than if you had baffles in it and you will loose low end torque. These bike do that but some pipes do it more than others. IMO the longer pipes do it more than the really short ones. Mine does it a little but they are loud and have torque chambers instead of baffles. Changing your jetting isn't going to get rid of that, if you bike is running good and the pipes aren't black with a lot of soot and the plugs are tan brown and clean I wouldn't mess with the jetting. Your gas mileage will tell you if your jetting is good also.

Actually my pipes are pretty black with soot and i am not positive about the spark plugs, i just put brand new iridiums in before i started riding it. Surrently with a majority freeway with a little bit of canyon/street i am getting 34-36mpg, not sure how that is on the mileage scale.

Mileage could be better. Wouldn't hurt to open the carb up and see what is in it. You have a BAK so it is a good chance you have the Baron's jet kit in it. Jets are cheap so if you have the Baron's needle your home free for a cheap jetting. Crack it open and tell us what ya got in it.

I will have to end up looking, i didnt originally have the barons when i got it, it had a force winder intake and i traded for the barons intake. Not sure if it was jetted even for that. Is there any simple way of seeing if it has beenm jetted when i open it?

Chadmans06 wrote:
I will have to end up looking, i didnt originally have the barons when i got it, it had a force winder intake and i traded for the barons intake. Not sure if it was jetted even for that. Is there any simple way of seeing if it has beenm jetted when i open it?

1. If there are allen head screws hold on the float bowl , someone has been in there.
2. If it has an adjustable needle with 5-6 grooves, someone has been in there.

Now to even try to guess what kit they used we would need to know the size and brand of jets that are in it including the pilot jet. Sometimes the dealer will jet by shimming the OEM needle and changing the pilot jet, but not changing the float bowl screws so # 1-2 above wouldn't help..

Well guys I started doing a quick look see at the carb still on the bike since I have a ride tomorrow and I noticed that the carb still has the standard Phillips head screws in it and I am almost certain by the amount of rust on them that they have never been cracked open. Is the Barons kit the best way to go? And are the jets supplied going to do the job or would I need another jet? Also, my carb assembly is pretty badly rusted all around, would I be better starting off with a better condition carb before proceeding? Thanks again for any and all input, it is always helpful.

You'll want to clean up the exterior some, but the cleanliness of the insides is much more important. Sounds like your bike might have sat a bit in a maritime environment.

I actually picked it from a guy down in San Diego and it had sat for a while. Should I get both the barons jet kit and the barons pms adjuster? I plan on cleaning it good when I do the jetting and stuff.

Chadmans06 wrote:
I actually picked it from a guy down in San Diego and it had sat for a while. Should I get both the barons jet kit and the barons pms adjuster? I plan on cleaning it good when I do the jetting and stuff.

I would recommend that, and I'm sure others will to. The adjustments when fine tuning the PMS(after the initial for starters setting)should be done at operating temps(15 to 20 miles of hard riding), which are way warmer then what I want to be trying to fit a screw driver into the PMS screw behind the bowl.
When removing the bowl screws, keep a good steady pressure to hold the driver in the slot, as well as when turning it. The screws are soft, and they'll conehead real easy. Don't over tighten them when reinstalling them. The kits provide a nice set of allen head screws to replace the stock ones.
Check your float level while your in the carb.
http://weislake.com/sig/mucker/carb/carbfloat/carbfloat.htm
Click on the pics, and they blow up. This is not the Yamaha tech manual way of doing this, but its much simpler, and it works.

By the way, the V&H without the stock baffle is a noise animal on decel. There is no way you'll get it to sound like anything other then a logging truck easing down a hill with the occasional pop, if you let it coast in gear.
Round up a set of stock baffles for it, and it will help alot. I recently installed a set of Big City QQ Thunder Monster baffles in mine, and tried it wide open like yours for one short trip before hand. I rode it to the DQ for a hamburger and home, and that was enough for me.
The stock baffle also buzzes ...."marbles in a bucket"..... on the decel. It vibrates against the inside of the pipes. I would recommend the QQ Thunder Monsters. I'm satisfied with the improvement they made to what I think is a really nice looking exhaust system on the Roadies.