Well, I tried to change the oil on my 2000 Road Star today for the first time since I've owned it (used bike of course). Anyway the front drain plug is extremely tight. Whoever changed the oil the last time must have used a 2' long wrench to tighten it!!!!! To make matters worse, the head of the plug was already worn and somewhat rounded when I started and now I have made it worse due to the wrench "slipping" without the bolt breaking loose. I'm telling you..this thing is tight!!!!! The head of the bolt it all but round now. I'm planning on trying to grind some flat spots on it to get a better bite, but I am not holding my breath. I have tried heating the case in the area around the plug hoping that the aluminum would expand faster than the plug and allow it to break loose, but this did not work either as the only "torch" I have is a little butane "hobby" torch and I don't think it heated fast enough (or enough at all).

Any other ideas???

Also, just to "vent" a little, but am I the only person to think that the location of this drain must have been designed by morons??
You can't get on it with a socket, and box end of my wrench had too thick of a "wall" to fit into the space between the bolt head and the case. I should have probably ground the wall thickness of the wrench to fit the space, but I didn't want to ruin an otherwise good wrench, so like a dummy, I tried to use the open end of the wrench which added to the rounding of the bolt (yeah, I know....dumb, dumb, dumb) How in the world are you to torque this bolt when re installing it when it is impossible to get a torque wrench in there? (this of course is the least of my problems at this point, but probably contributed to the previous owner over tightening it in the first place)

HELP PLEASE!!!!

It's a combination of the metric threads(they really lock tight)and not enough room. Go to auto zone and get a 14mmx1.25 plug to replace that one when you get it out. Put some anti-sieze on the threads. That will give you more room for the wrench.
Plus it has a magnet on the end.
Can you still get a box end to lock on it? then hit the end of the wrench with a hammer to loosen.

Tomorrow I am going to go ahead and grind a box wrench to fit better, but Im not too confident that I will get a good enough bite. I may have to grind flats and use a smaller wrench. I have even toyed with the idea of drilling a hole through the side of bolt head in order to use a round "pin" as a wrench. Man, I really hate to think about taking this thing to a repair shop for something like this, and Im having visions of needing to pull the engine off in order to use an "easy out" . Im feeling sick to the stomach thinking about it!!!

You can try a hammer and chisel. Go in from the side and see if you can beat it loose. Might have to give it some good whacks.

Time to step back and take a few breaths. You could also try locking pliers if you can get a bite.
The first time I changed mine I had to put one wrench on the plug and lock another wrench to that one to get enough leverage.
Hopefully some else here might have a better cure.
UH... what Musky said.

Visegrips and hit them with a hammer if you can get a good bite with them!!!!!

I agree ..a very bad place to put a drain plug..I couldnt believe it when I seen it
I also have a 1983 goldwing I think could do a dozen oil changes on it...in the time it takes me to do 1 on my Star

I used a hammer and chisle on rounded heads also...just be careful

I would get that old plug out (vise grips and a dead blow hammer work wonders on tight bolts) and replace it with a magnetic one. Cheap insurance! And a slight correction concerning the size.....you will actually be looking for a 14 X 1.50 thread pitch. It will have a 14mm head on it, and you will find it much easier to do oil changes on from here on out.

BTW....my Liner has two of those babies about 6 inches apart from each other that require draining , so it's double the headache for me.....Yes Moronic design.... BB

Big Bear wrote:
BTW....my Liner has two of those babies about 6 inches apart from each other that require draining , so it's double the headache for me.....Yes Moronic design.... BB

Brilliant engineering...so if ya round the head on one ...ya got another as a backup

Thanks for the response guys. I'm going to take another whack at it tonight (literally). If I can't get it, I had a thought. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the "Cap" that is located beind the rear cylinder (the one that has the "allen" head) leads directly to the crank case....correct? If so, could I use an oil extractor to "suck" the oil out? Or, are there obstuctions in the way that won't allow the suction tube to get to the bottom of the crankcase? Hell, if that would work, it may even be easier than draining into a pan.