I have had a problem with my front dragging and not releasing, own a 2007 midnight 1700. I changed pads approx 10k miles ago, I noticed a rubbing noise developing, over time it got louder and seemed the brakes would not release even if I applied them hard. I inspected the pads, there is plenty of pad on the right, on the inside left the pad was worn almost to the backing plate. So time to replace pads, I have 33k on the bike, so I assume it's time to change the fluid and bleed the brakes. I also want to inspect and clean the pistons, they still move with just finger pressure, so do I just pull them out to clean them? Is there anything to be careful of while removing them? And of course while re-installing them is there anything I can do wrong?

Thanks
Jvmbike

Sounds like you have a good plan together. Also sounds like you had a stuc caliper, taking one pad down so hard like that is usually a symptom. Some here will pull and clean the pistons, and carefully reinstall them, and the seals still work, but it would be in your best interest to hava full set of piston seals on hand, and try to get the old ones off without damaging them, lest you have a problem with one of the new ones. You will at least have a backup or two. It's a pretty straightforward job. I flush my brake system once a year on all my bikes. FYI

i was gonna say clean the piston. i have seen a lot of HD bikes come in the shop for this very reason and its a filthy piston.

You can start by removing the front wheel and just extend the piston by applying the brakes without the pads installed. Do this one caliper at a time and *be careful not to push the piston out too far*. Clean the piston with some brake cleaner and a green 3M pad making sure there's no grit or burs on the piston. You can get some brake caliper grease and lube the piston too. But be careful not to apply too much. Just a light coat. Then push the piston back in; it should go smoothly. You should be able to push it with your finger; but if that doesn't work, try a screwdriver or box wrench. Be sure to use the old pad to press against, do not press directly on the piston itself. You may want to extend and retract the piston several times to make sure it's working good. It wouldn't hurt to bleed your brakes while your at it. If the fluid is not clear as water, then flush it with new fluid.

Thanks Jd750ace,
how hard is it to remove the seals? Even more to re-install them, would you do the job with the caliper completely off the bike?

Jvmbike

Thanks donlam304,
hopefully I have no scored pistons.

Thanks Doc_v
can you regular automotive brake cleaner, or is there something special for motorcycle, also where does one find brake grease, I know they don't come with replacement pads like they usually come with car brakes?

jvmbike wrote:
Thanks Doc_v
can you regular automotive brake cleaner, or is there something special for motorcycle, also where does one find brake grease, I know they don't come with replacement pads like they usually come with car brakes?

I just did my brakes and I got the grease in a small tube, at the local auto parts store, as you don't need much. High temp brake caliper grease.

Thanks roadienme

Same grease as cars use for calipers.

Seals are not too bad with a pick to get out of the grooves. Going back on, well, have you ever watched a woman put on panty hose? take it a little at a time and don't get your seals in a wad or roll them over!

I would absolutely get them off the bike for that job. I would start with flushing the brake system with clean fluid all the way down to both calipers. Then I would remove each caliper and put a plastic bag over the hose ends, then tie them back so if the bag leaks, it does not go on any part of the bike. I find it helpful when re-attaching fresh calipers to wrap them up in shop towels while attaching the lines. Keeps from getting everything all messy and having to flood it with brake cleaner. Flushes away some of your grease you just put on the pistons when you do that!
Bleeding is usually straight forward. If you have a hard time getting a firm lever, it is often an air bubble trapped at the banjo fittings. You may have to vent each banjo while applying pressure, as those bubbles generally won't move up or down the line. Some here will reccomend the My-T-Vac, and self bleed screws, but I usually just get an assistant (thanks babydoll) and do it the old fashioned way.