Smokes, If you got the wobble induced on decel, it is front end geometry or tire for sure. You increase the pressure abruptly on the front when you chop the throttle. Any instability that is there is amplified with the weight transfer. Don't know how to get you right. Do you have over 6 inches of trail? If so, the axle line is getting too far behind the center of pressure (the line down your forks to the ground) and with your bigger front wheel, you are loosing leverage.
Hope you get it sorted partner. I don't know if the various bagger magazines have companion web sites, but a lot of them are doing 21-23 inch fronts, so there may be some useful info over there for ya. You could slide the fork tubes up in the trip clamp about an inch, and try it again, just to verify. That's a radical move, (the 1 inch distance anyhow) but you would be able to detect a difference immediately. It would get you back down toward a level lower frame rail, and stock geometry.
Hope it helps brother.

That whobble can be from the front fork bearings not being tight enough. If your forks as so loose they can't stop in any possition when the front tire is off the ground, it's too loose. There is a hole on the left side of the bike, at the top of the head, you can get a instrument in there and use a hammer to tighten it. Or you can just leave the bars on, remove the nut on top (Between the risers... (Catch it from the back side)) and loosen the pinch bolts and the top of the tree will come up enough to gain access to the nuts and use a suitable punch to tighten. Hitting both the bottom and top nut at the same time or alternate. I do think the rubber spacer should be tossed and loc tight used. Other people have done that and I think thats what I will do next time I do the head. I have loc tight on mine now.

I really think your whobble is from this. If it is at low speeds when you let go of the bars, that's it. And if has been run like that a while, it will wear the tire like that. And it will need to be replaced to get rid of it entirely. If it is a rear tire on the front, just reverse it from what you have now, You can run the rear tire on the front in any rotation, and some as well as I have been rotating the direction evry 3 to 5 K for more even wear. No problems.

theGRINDER wrote:
Did a little more adjusting and tinkering on the bike and air pressure... I checked the tire out real good to make sure that it was seated completely... and by my thinking, it is not... there are lines that go around the tire where it meets the lip of the wheel... by looking and checking these lines, the right side of the tire is all good... but, the left side of the tire is not... you can plainly see two lines outside of the lip on the right side with a very small space between the second line and the lip of the wheel... on the right side about a 1/4 of the tire has that second line tucked into the wheel... you can see it, but thats it... it is not out of the lip with that small space between it and the lip of the wheel... I posted over on the darkside forum about my issues and one fella told me that the tire must be seated completely all the way around on both sides or I will get the wobble that I am getting... I deflated the tire to try to manipulate the tire to come out a tad... then I aired it back up to around 80 psi... it looked like it was wanting to come out, and did a tad, but not fully... so I reapeated the process... and it got a tad better, but still no joy... so I took the bike for another spin... now I can get up to 90 without any swaying or wobbles... it is getting better, but still not good... this is the only thing I hate about trying something new on the bike... drive-ability issues! Right now, I am thinking about just selling the Austone off and get another Dunlop...

You found the problem. Those lines have to be even all around the rim. I know it's some extra work but you need to break the bead loose on the right and use the proper tire lube down on the bead seating area of the rim so the tire can slide into position.

80 psi can ruin the cords in the tire. When I mount my tires with the correct lube the beads just "snick" right into place - no loud pops or anything like that.

With the bead not seated properly I'm surprised you're not feeling something all the time.

Tony, I had a similar problem getting the bead seated on the rear tire of my Shadow. It sounds kind of crazy but I used a deadblow hammer and hit on the tire working my way around the rim until it was even. Might give it a try and see if it helps you.

Was reading the entire thread to catch up, and yeh, tire bead seating is a very big deal.

You've got to use some tire lube, and it must seat completely all the way around. It shouldn't take but 50-60 psi to get it to "snick" as someone put it. A loud pop does mean it wasn't sufficiently lubed, and likely took more pressure to get it there than is recommended.

I was a tire monkey at the Purdue Univ garage in the late 70's on an old Coats 20-20.

Im gonna check my steering head bearings this morning and take the tire off and research it... maybe take it to a tire shop for some assistance...

when i had the local bike shop mount my tire it seated at 45 psi,yes they did use a soap lube when mounting it. i did read that some times to much of the dyna beads is also a bad thing. not saying saying 3 oz's is bad, not sure . i was told to run 2 oz's in any ct

OK guys and gals... I think I finally got everything worked out with the CT... I can cruise at 80 to 85 with no issues... above that and she gets a little wobbly... especially on them dang tar snakes... I have about 300 miles on this tire and I know it is broke in... straight line riding is awesome... curves are not bad either... I am getting use to the CT now... but, I am still not sold on it... I can see where those that like it do... but, overall, I dont think I am gonna stay with it... I have my reasons... I just like the MT better than the CT... so, if anyone is interested in the Austone 175/16, I will make you a deal... I need another MT and cant afford one without selling this one first... so, if you are interested, hit me up... dont pm me... my cell number is under my avatar...

Its not broke in at 300 mi. Have you played w/ pressure to find a sweet spot? I don't think you should surrender w/out fully experimenting. BUT I wouldn't try to talk you into it. U don't like it..change it. Atleast you tried and have an experienced opinion. Although anybody that has rode mine says they can't tell the different and wouldn't know it was a ct if I didn't tell them. Different bike? Different tire? Who knows what the different is? One good thing.
You'll have no prob selling it. I'm sticking w bridgestone.
Good luck

I have played with the air pressure... even the folks over on the darkside say I am the only one with this many variables.... too many "custom" mods to nail down what us the culprit... I have checked everything from the steering head bearings to air pressure.... but, like I stated, I think I have all the bugs worked out... just not comfy on it.... I ride like a bat outta hell on my Roadie.... 140k hard miles on her and she takes it like a champ.... I ride these mountain roads like a motor GP... no kidding... I powershift through curves, in which the CT reacts differently to... and not a reaction I really like.. feels like the back end wants to come around on me... never once had that with a MT.... there ate other things im not comfy about either... I just want that solid feeling back...