Last night I experienced what turned out to be carb
puke. Today, after a lot of input on this thread I went about attempting to resolve the issue. I found some heat shield at a "truck & speed shop" and set about putting it on the fuel line.
I decided to turn off the fuel, start the bike & let it run out of gas before starting. So I started the bike, it ran for a bit & died. I knew there was still plenty of fuel in the system, so I went to start it again and nothing. I blew the ignition fuse. I replaced the fuse, turned on the key & the fuel pump didn't make a sound. Tried to start the bike & the fuse popped again. I called my buddy, who owns a 2k Millennium edition Road Star & explained what happened. He said to disconnect the fuel pump wires, replace the fuse & try again. I did & while the bike wouldn't start due to no fuel, it did try to turn over and no fuse pop!
So I ran my fuel line from the tank to the filter & from the filter to the carb. Turned on the fuel & it took some doing, but she finally started! Took awhile to warm up, but once warm the bike ran great...I was really surprised. Low speed cruising was fine, accelerating was fine, high speed cruising was fine, high speed accelerating was fine (got on 95 north and went from 70 to 85 as fast as my slippy clutch would allow). The only "issue" I noticed was some very slight hesitation when cruising steady between 40mph to 50mph. Other than that the bike ran just like it did with the pump.
Now I don't know jack about carbs so I'm going to give y'all the info best as I can so you can make recommendations, etc, based on all the info. Here goes:
2000 Road Star 1600. Main
jet is a DJ195. The little set screw (or whatever it's actually called) on the carb is turned out 3 1/2 turns. The needle is all the way "up" I believe? Air intake is a hypercharger with a K&N filter. Pipes are Bubs & do have baffles.
Knowing all that, what, if anything, should I have done (by someone who knows what they're doing) to the carb? Is there anything that will help with that hesitation when cruising between 40-50?
I know once I take out the fuel pump & lines I'll have more room between the jugs so I may be able to get my gravity flow angle a little more downhill than it is. Perhaps that will help?
Oh, I noticed one other thing too...when I shut off the bike there was no carb puke!
Dynojet #195 mainjet is the right main for the DJ
Fuel needle e-clip on 2nd slot, hesitation you describe at 40-50 is in the CV40 diaphgram fuel needle, delivery and butterfly operation of the Hyper-charger. ya might be getting to much fuel in that area 40-50 cruise in 4th gear... if it was me i would install the grizzley valve as Ricohoc suggested...
1. remove the carb fuel inlet stem ( screen ) toss it in the garbage ya don't need it!
2 remove the fuel filter. " for now..."
3. adjust the float tab richer use a buffalo nickel as the guage____it works for cying out loud Ken Sexton Carb Float bowl set-up.
4. vent speedo side of fuel locking cap. OR better yet enlarge with 1/8 drill bit Fuel tank Vent Stem. zip tie a foam filter on it, such as Erbman uses on his..
5. remove the roll over valve toss it in the garbage...
6. install a larger 5/16 fuel line.... do not cut the fuel petcock straw as others have done "Not necessary"!
7.start with a 175 mikuni "mainjet" and the dynofuel needle e-clip on 5th slot pms
screw at 3 turns from seated position. keep the same 37.5 PJ in there for now !
take it for a ride..... do a spark plug reading on "1 and "3 will stop there.......
get back when you have performed thease task
if yer looking for fuel mileage 175 MJ
performance 170-172.5 MJ with the dynofuel needle..
keep in mind i'm narrowing this down to 2 mainjets changes... so ya only have to be in the carb bowl maybe twice.
hopefully ya have allen screws in float bowl if so you do not have to remove the carb!!!!!!!!!!
others can walk ya thru step by step ya can do all this in a weekend...
especially those who are not mechanics,