Hi, I just finished jetting carb and porting manifold. For my first time operating around a motorcycle, I found the instructions very accurate and the bike cooperating. After buttoning everything back up, I noticed a couple of open items left near the top of the carb, i can't recall seeing these when I removed the carb. (these parts in question are different parts from the two hoses that went on the back of the stock air box, I got those down)

1. There is a black plastic looking pcv type valve on the top of the carb that looks as though is just vents to the open air?
2. There is a black 5/8 tube coming from the fuel pump area over to the carb, I'm guessing this comes over the manifold and curls up in that open area behind the carb and vents to the open air?

3. Concerning the needle upgrade with the BAK, the Baron's instructions say to put the washers back on as was the stock needle, including one under the white spacer. Yet the instructions from Mr. Tidy say "do NOT use a washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle" I went with Mr. Tidy's version, any difference here?

I completed the following work and still have the bike in the garage as I am still operating on the pipes. Before I get it all put back, I wanted a reality check - should I be OK with these settings:

Big Air Kit w/Barons re-jetting instructions
PMS - 3.5 turns
Main - 170
Clip - 5th notch, no washer under spacer
Ported Manifold

Stock exhaust Stage 3.

Best Riding,
Mike in San Jose, CA

I'm no expert with this carb, but I have seen the carb guys tell others to put the small washer under the white spacer because it can "stick" to the inside of the carb. Mine I jetted with a dynojet kit and did put the small washer under the white spacer, but its a different kit.

03MochaStar wrote:
1. There is a black plastic looking pcv type valve on the top of the carb that looks as though is just vents to the open air?
2. There is a black 5/8 tube coming from the fuel pump area over to the carb, I'm guessing this comes over the manifold and curls up in that open area behind the carb and vents to the open air?

1. That's OK
2. I'm guessing if you trace that hose back you will find it hooks to the cylinder. I'm thinking its the crankcase vent hose. There should be a place on the back of the BAK to plug it into or you can get a longer pice of hose and run it out under the bike. Some people put some kind of filter on the end of the hose after they do that and some don't.<br><br>Post edited by: Musky, at: 2006/09/12 06:47

03MochaStar wrote:


Big Air Kit w/Barons re-jetting instructions
PMS - 3.5 turns
Main - 170
Clip - 5th notch, no washer under spacer
Ported Manifold

Stock exhaust Stage 3

Mike,

Year of bike?

You'll probably be too rich. There should be a 167.5 in the Baron's jet kit but just check to make sure. I think you'll end up needing it.

Clip on 5 is too rich. Drop back to 4. The needle should be set up (from the blunt end; the top) ..... washer, clip, white spacer, silver washer.

PMS will probably be 2.5 to 3 but you can fine-tune it once you have it buttoned up and the engine warmed up by ..... turning the PMS in slowly until the engine stumbles, then counting the number of turns, turn it out slowly until it stumbles. Halfway between the in and out is where you should set it.

Doc

Hi Doc,

My 03 R* will be running smooth with all your help, I am sure glad for the responses.

When making the settings, I was following the Barons Jet Kit instructions for a bike with BAK and Pipes with Baffle. I also ported the manifold.

Yes there is a 167.5 jet, I will check it out and make adjustments.
I'll put the clip back on 4th notch with the order you suggest.
PMS is going back to 2.5 - 3. and I will then dial it in when she's warm.

I will put the washer back on the bottom, I just trusted Mr. Tidy's tech tip because everything else he wrote there was 100% gold. Perhaps that should be modified.
Look at this link, under Needle Replacement.
http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/60/96/

Thanks again!
Best Riding,
Mike in San Jose, CA

Like BigBear said there has been some discussions on the needle sticking without the washer underneath but I have no experience with that.

Good luck.

Doc

Hi Doc,

03 R*

A few more questions should get me riding sooner.
Regarding routing tubing; I am still confused after putting the carb back on;

1. Is the bowl drain tube suppose to be open, no tube on it?

2. There is a tube coming from the fuel pump location, not the crankcase vent tube, this one comes from behind the fuel pump there is a plastic rectangular device with two lines on it, one goes up towards the front carb vent. Where does the other hose go to?

3. Does the brass plug have to be replaced after dialing in the PMS screw?

Best Riding,
Mike in San Jose, CA

03MochaStar wrote:
1. Is the bowl drain tube suppose to be open, no tube on it?

Correct.

2. There is a tube coming from the fuel pump location, not the crankcase vent tube, this one comes from behind the fuel pump there is a plastic rectangular device with two lines on it, one goes up towards the front carb vent. Where does the other hose go to?

Can't remember; I've had mine off for 5 years. Maybe one of the other guys can help you.

3. Does the brass plug have to be replaced after dialing in the PMS screw?

No, chuck it. Although it's not an issue in San Jose as it always warm, as the weather cools in the north it sometimes necessary to tweak the PMS a bit.

Doc

1. There is a black plastic looking pcv type valve on the top of the carb that looks as though is just vents to the open air?

If your talking about the black tube on the airf ilter side of the carb yes that is a vent and just styas there in the barons kit it says you may want to shorten it to hide it better.

2. There is a black 5/8 tube coming from the fuel pump area over to the carb, I'm guessing this comes over the manifold and curls up in that open area behind the carb and vents to the open air?

This should have a hookup on the back of your new air cleaner assembly.

3. Concerning the needle upgrade with the BAK, the Baron's instructions say to put the washers back on as was the stock needle, including one under the white spacer. Yet the instructions from Mr. Tidy say &quot;do NOT use a washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle&quot; I went with Mr. Tidy's version, any difference here?

The needle is in the plastic slider it is held in by a cap and spring and should be lined up with the jet so how can it possibly move and get hung up? Thas a question i have been wondering for a while.

I just put my Barons BAK 2 weeks ago had already jetted it with dynojet kit but am going to rejet with barons as SOON AS THE DAMN DEALER GETS MY 2.5 MM NEEDLE VALVE IN!!!!

Here's a lik to the service manuals. You can hopefully look through it and find the parts and routing you're talking about.

http://www.paulmilner.com/yamaha/handbuch/handbuch.htm