Man... I've read & read lots of threads to get a concise answer, but haven't found one yet. So, here goes...

2007 R* Midnight 1700
9k miles
3" HK long straight pipes w/ spiral baffles
Just installed the Baron BAK breather. Runs good. Bike was running rich with just the pipes. (Dealer installed pipes and jetted the carb and prolly why it was rich.)Milkeage increased with BAK installed from 33mpg to 39mpg. I have no idea what size jets it currently has in it. The Baron manual doesn't cover 2007 model.

Can someone give me some guidance on what setup I should be st
starting with? I will probably be porting the manifold at the same time, so please consider that as well. (btw- do need to replace the manifold gaskets if I pull it or are they resusable?)

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to get this done this weekend.

If the dealership installed the kit, my guess they went by the instructions and installed the 172.5 main jet. I wouldn't worry about the main jet right now, open the top end of the carb and see what you needle is set on, probably start with 4th clip. run your Pilot mixture screw in all the way and then turn out 2.5 turns. Then adjust depending on how it's running, maybe try the Wide Open Trottle test, search through the tech sections and it will have some good info..........My BAK was installed by the dealership and mine too was too rich, i played with mine awhile and decided to go back to the stock intake and jetting, and I'm getting 48 mpg consitantly. I have Bub BigWilly's exhaust with baffles.

BTW just for alittle info, if you have never been into the carb before, the little tab that holds the needle in the cup has a small spring behind it. When you pull that tab to slide the needle out that little spring will be ready to fly across the shop into lost spring world. Just thought I would mention this, it happened to me!

Do you have the rest of the jets that came with the BAK? Set the PMS at 2 to 2.5 turns. Put the needle in the 5th groove from the blunt end. And put in either the 170 or 167.5 main jets. Do the WOT and see if the main checks out. If it does go to the 4th groove from the blunt end and tweak the needle and PMS from there. You might as well port first before you do the WOT. If it was me I would replace the o rings just because it's such a pain in the backside to get at the mani if you find out it leaks.

You could also lap your mani while you have it off. That helps get a flat surface on it. You can also use a Dremel to grind the little nubs out of the o ring groove and go to over size o rings. That helps even more in getting a good seal.

Like Musky said and I recommend doing the over size o-rings it sure beats trying to fight air leaks on the manifold. You can check my setup and keep it in mind it may put you somewhere close. My HK's were always rich.

Guess I'll throw in my setup if it will help you. I'm just under 300lbs and getting 41 mpg riding hard to work and back and 45 on trips.

2006 Midnight 1700 w/ 2 1/8" Bub Big Willy pipes w/ 2" baffles and homemade lollipops. (1 3/4" freeze plugs with a 1/2" center hole drilled in them)
Plug wire resistors replaced with copper wire
Self ported manifold
K&N filter in a Poor Man's BAK
Accellerator pump screw turned all the way down with the nut on the backside.
170 Mikuni main jet (I'm going to try a 167.5 when I can get my hands on one.)
35 pilot
Clip on 4th
PMS... no idea but turned in a little lean. I adjust it by ear for best idle then turn it in a bit.
And bike now has 6700 miles.

Hope this helps!

OK... Thanks for all the great suggestions...
I've got the carb opened up. It had a 165 main jet and clip was on 4 with the stock needle. I was surprised because I thought it was running rich. I expected to find the main was 170 or bigger. I think I'll try going to 167.5 w/ Baron's needle on the 4th clip. Make sense? I want to get max pull while not killing my MPG. (was getting 38 or so w/ just Baron's breather. 33 or so w/ stock breather)

Another question... Baron manual says to reuse the stock spacer & washer on the needle. The tech article here "Rejet Your Carb" says "Do not use the washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle." Any reason for the deviation?

THANKS!!!

VinceJE wrote:
clip was on 4 with the stock needle.

I think I'll try going to 167.5 w/ Baron's needle on the 4th clip.

Another question... Baron manual says to reuse the stock spacer & washer on the needle. The tech article here "Rejet Your Carb" says "Do not use the washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle." Any reason for the deviation?

THANKS!!!

The stock needle only has one groove so you don't have the stock needle in there.

Follow the procedure I outlined in my first reply to you for the jetting.

I advise people to keep the stock washer / spacer setup. That is the setup people think of when they answer jet questions. Do you have to have the washer under the spacer? Nope. But it will just confuse everything. You can add an extra washer under the spacer to move half a groove.

Musky wrote:
Do you have to have the spacer? Nope. But it will just confuse everything. You can add an extra washer under the spacer to move half a groove.

Probably a mistype but yes must have the spacer but you don't need a washer under the spacer; however, one washer under the spacer is the 'normal' jetting method.

Doc

OOPS. Thanks Doc

Yeah. Washer. Not spacer