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		<title>Road Star Clinic</title>
		<description>Road Star Clinic News Feeds</description>
		<link>http://roadstarclinic.com</link>
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			<description>Road Star Clinic News Feeds</description>
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			<title>Road Star Web Search</title>
			<link>http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/174/2/</link>
			<description>

                   

 </description>
			<category>News - Latest</category>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Aug 2007 14:31:46 +0100</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Using a Harley Rear Master Cylinder</title>
			<link>http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/233/95/</link>
			<description>
Items Needed:

Kelsey Hayes type master cylinder:  
L 1979-1983 Harley FX or 1980-1981 XL Sportster
Product Link (http://www.debrix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=45207-M1)
3/16”x 1” flat stock approximately 4” long.

2  bolts 5/16”x 2 ˝”

2  5/16”chrome acorn nuts

1 5/16” x 24 banjo bolt

1  5/16” solid rod (purchase at hardware store)

1  brake light switch for 67-79 Chevy Nova OEM# 1261219




</description>
			<category>Brakes - Aftermarket Master Cylinders</category>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 10:34:40 +0100</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>CCSaddlebags (generic bags) with Easy Brackets</title>
			<link>http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/230/117/</link>
			<description>
This was one of the easiest projects I have ever undertaken on my bike.  Total time was about 2 1/2 hours.  It probably could have been done in 45 minutes to an hour but I was taking pics and making notes.  I recently acquired a set of &quot;Hurricane Studded&quot; bags from Mike Battles at Custom Classic Saddlebags (http://www.ccsaddlebags.com), which happened to come with a set of Easy Brackets.  The Hurricane's are generic bags not made specifically for the Road Star (more about the bags at the end of the article), so this set of instructions should apply to just about any bike with Generic bags assuming the correct Easy Bracket kit is ordered to fit the bike.
Parts:

Easy Brackets Kit (part number YMA-R2BR for Silverado with stock backrest)
4 Docking Posts (in kit)
4 8mm polished ss button head bolts (in kit)
8 3/8 x 1 black button head bolt (in kit)
8 3/8 nylon locking nut (in kit)
8 3/8 fender washer (in kit)
barrel key (in kit)
Hurricane Studded bags from Custom Classic Saddlebags (http://www.ccsaddlebags.com)
</description>
			<category>Luggage/Pouches - Leather Saddlebags - Mounted</category>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Mar 2009 08:45:12 +0100</pubDate>
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			<title>Mark Cole's $100 Passing Lamps</title>
			<link>http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/222/103/</link>
			<description>Mark Garetz at www.vstar1100.com originally put this idea together.  Mark Cole (Mark7) adapted it to work on his Road Star, and after a very favorable reception on our forum, agreed to write out this set of instructions for the benefit of  other members of the Clinic.Parts List:   2 Sealed Beam Spotlight Housings - J.C. Whitney part # 0199602S - $24.99/unit JC Whitney Part Link (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003447/p-2003447/N-111+10211+600014808/c-10111)2 Sealed Beam Spotlights - J.C. Whitney part # 0199622 - $10.99/ unit JC Whitney Part Link (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductBrowse?storeId=10101 Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2003448 productId=2003448 catalogId=10111 N=111%2B10211%2B600014762 rlid=group_listing)2 Cruiser Customizing 3-piece bar clamp - $7.00/unit Part # CC-FRAME-CLAMP Cruiser Customizing part link (http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=36 Category_ID=5 manufacturer_ID=170 product_ID=11491 related=short)*1 Toggle Switch SPST (optional) waterproof version  - $5.00 part(s) 16535, 16536 go2marine.com part link (http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=16535F)*1 Toggle Switch SPST (optional) non-waterproof version Radio Shack part # 276-624 Radio Shack part link (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062503 cp= sr=1 origkw=spst+switch kw=spst+switch parentPage=search)Silicone Sealant &amp;ndash; Just a dab. 2 Insulated Spade Connectors. *Toggle switch is an optional item and you need only 1: Get either the waterproof or non-waterproof version</description>
			<category>Electrical - Headlight</category>
			<pubDate>Mon, 26 May 2008 11:20:37 +0100</pubDate>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rear Wheel Alignment</title>
			<link>http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/223/132/</link>
			<description>
Introduction


Tire changes, belt changes, and swing arm maintenance are just a few of the reasons belt adjustment and rear wheel-alignment are part of Road Star ownership. By learning to do it yourself, you can save some cash, and make sure the job gets done properly.
If your rear wheel is not pointed in the same direction as your front wheel, tires wear out more quickly, the bike feels less balanced, and your drive belt may quickly wear.
There are at least three ways to align your rear wheel:


    Match the rear wheel&amp;rsquo;s alignment to the front wheel&amp;rsquo;s straight-ahead position.
    Align the rear axle&amp;rsquo;s alignment to the frame&amp;rsquo;s alignment by matching it to the swing arm pivot.
    Align the drive belt to track properly in the rear drive pulley.


The first method is covered in another Road Star Clinic article: The $6 Wheel Alignment Jig (http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/85/130/). Its author suggests tying straight edges to each side of the rear wheel, then adjusting the rear wheel until both straight edges are equidistant from the -- centered -- front wheel. While this method is clever, cheap, and potentially accurate, it won't work with a hydraulic center lift (it obstructs the straight edges). And I don't really have the garage space or the budget for a proper, non-obstructing lift. (See &amp;ldquo;The $6 Wheel Alignment Jig&amp;rdquo; article in this website for details.)
The second method, &amp;lsquo;Aligning the rear axle to the swing arm pivot,&amp;rsquo; is the way Yamaha recommends, although they offer no opinion -- pro or con -- for other methods. This method aligns the rear wheel by measuring the distance from the rotational center of the swing-arm pivot to the rotational center of the rear axle on each side the frame. When the distances on each side of the bike are identical, the rear wheel must be pointed straight. This should also make the drive belt track properly within the pulleys, theoretically. Note: This is currently the method I use and recommend, too.
The third method, 'Aligning the drive belt to track properly within the rear drive pulley,&amp;rsquo; can be highly accurate and doesn't depend on measurement devices, but it is often very time consuming, repetitive, and potentially frustrating. With that said, I admit that this was my method of choice for 4 years, and an estimated 25 alignments (due to the many related mods I did).
This article gives several variations and refinements on the standard alignment procedure to reduce error and guess work from the task. It's a fairly simple and quick procedure, and doesn't take many tools.</description>
			<category>Wheels/Rims - Maintenance</category>
			<pubDate>Fri, 29 Aug 2008 18:46:46 +0100</pubDate>
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