Convert to run/turn: Road Star Tail light Conversion Procedure

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Written by Vince Sbordone   
Thursday, 10 June 2004

Reprinted by Permission from Mr Tidy's Tech Tips

You've been wanting to change those turn signal lamps into turn signals and running lamps,
but didn't want to pay $130.00 for a converter module.  Well for approx., $10.00 a a little effort you can install dual filament sockets and 1157 bulbs and be back on the road.  For approx, another $20.00 you can purchase red turnsignal lenses from Barons Custom to complete the job..

  • Get 2 double contact universal lamp sockets, This is the 2 wire type with the lip at the top of the socket and two 1157 bulbs.
  • Some bullet crimps to splice the wires. They come 10 to 14 in a blister pak. (Male & Female)
  • Small amount of stranded wire #14 ga will work. 

    The cost is about $10.00 total for the setup. 


    1. Remove your license plate and reflector. Loosen the bolts holding the turn signals in place. 
    2. Pull the flexible wire keeper outward and gently spread the wires apart. 
    3. Unplug the left or right blinker, (work on one light at a time) Attach a wire to one of the turn signal wires with tape then remove the light assembly from the bike. Un-tape the wire from the turn signal wires, this is to provide you with a manner in which you can pull the lamp assembly wires back into the tubbing.
    4. Unscrew the amber lens from the turn signal. Remove the 2 screws holding the socket and remove the socket and rubber boot.  Remove the the Ground wire from the socket.  (push it up from the bottom of the socket to remove, it's the wire with the ring on it). 

    5. Take the Ground wire that you just removed and gently bend the ring so that  it curves. It will match the contour of the NEW socket when placed on the OUTSIDE of the socket.  Make a small hole in the rubber boot for the 3rd wire and slide the boot over the new socket, ( which will now have 3 wires coming from it. The curved ground wire ring is layed against the socket and the boot holds it in place.) 
    6. Put the new socket back into the signal arm using the small strap and screws that you removed earlier. This piece will also squeeze the ground ring against the socket for a good connection. 
    7. Snake your wires back through the turn signal arm. 
    8. Plug the original Ground wire back into it's connector.  Crimp a MALE bullet to the ends of the two other wires and plug the turn signal filiment back into it's connector.  TRY the turn signal. If it blinks VERY FAST you have the wrong wire plugged in. Just use the other lead and test again.  You WILL notice a difference in the blink rate this time. 
    9. Locate the BLUE wire on the brake and tail light assembly, it will be coming out of the fender through the right grommet in the fender. This is the running light side of the tail light.
      This is where you will connect the wire from the new socket for your running light.  The easiest way to do this is to use 3 short lengths of wire.  Twist 3 of the ends together and use a MALE bullet crimp on that end, plug it into the BLUE FEMALE, with the three loose other ends use 3 FEMALE bullet crimps. You wind up with a 1 to 3 connector.  Use one for the BLUE  MALE, and the other 2 are for your new running lights. 



    10. Go to 'C' and do the other side.  At this point everything is ready to be plugged in and this socket exchange should zip by. When done, neatly fold the wires back into their hiding place and bend the flexible keeper across the wires. 
    11. Install the reflector/license plate. Retest the SIGNALS. Go RIDE 



Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

Discuss this article on the forums. (10 posts)


DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.


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  Comments (7)
Written by LIL PAUL, on 10-05-2009 22:13
NOW THIS MIGHT SOUND DUMB BUT WHAT WOULD HAPPEN IF I CONNECTED MY REAR SIGNAL LIGHTS LIKE THIS ... BLUE & GREEN, BLUE & BROWN , WITH MY TAIL LIGHT CONNECTED TO THE BLUE WIRE AS WELL? I TRIED IT AND THEY ARE RUNNING LIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS. WILL I HAVE ANY FUSE PROBLEMS THIS WAY? OR ANY PROBLEMS FOR THAT MATTER?
Tip that might save someone some aggrava
Written by CPORetired, on 09-15-2009 19:09
I followed the instructions to the letter with the exception of using 1157 LED bulbs and not standard 1157, no matter what I did with the LED's I had the rapid flash on my sig's, put the standard bulbs in and everything is perfect, thought about putting equalizers as some had suggested but the price difference in equalizers and standards bulbs the bulbs won out hands down, you can get the bulbs on ebay for $4.95 plus free shipping. And IMO the standard bulbs look better in the signal housing than the led's did, again just MY OPINION. Other than that VERY HAPPY WITH CONVERSION. 8) :grin
Thanks
Written by kaisayson, on 07-15-2009 05:33
Mr Tidy, thank you for your tech tips on this one. I had a Turn, Run and brake kit installed but I took it out cause it was causing some electrical problems and took your tip on converting the rear flahers into running lights. I bought all the parts except I had problems locating the correct bulb socket. I had a friend that converted all his turn signals to after market kits and so I secured his front flashers to my rear and wired it uo according to your intructions and walla!!!! Run/flashers lights!!! Again thanks for the TIP. :)
RE: Advisary note: any modification to f
Written by ElJefe, on 05-11-2009 07:04
Just wanted to add my two cents..I'm an owner of an '05 Road* Midnight Silverado, Hard bags, fat windshield, driving lights and so on.... 
Upon reading discussions here, I embarked upon a mission to totally remove the "water buffalo horns" (thing that acted as a mount for my rear turn signals) from the license plate bracket of my RS. I had purchased some '39 Ford tear drop (repros) which I thought would compliment my after effects if mounted one on each saddle bag.  
Essentially, accomplishing the same thing as the other folks were doing except for adding the "whole concept" (Run/Turn/&Tail light). I leaped into this project after reading all of the tech tips posted. Thinking I had the theory down and could make it work. Long story shortened, I've had my tear drops (stop and tail) for a year but have had no turn signals. This past week I've re-read all of the tips and blogs, woke up with a start Saturday morning due to a misplaced memory! (a) Tail light converter for automotive & trailer 5 into 4 wire.  
(b) the answer to accelerated (rapid) flash rate is resistance in the light bulbs. Factory lights, are extremely well made rough service, and quite different in socket base (alignment pins). if you change one, you must change them all. If not you will experience the rapid flash rate.  
The 5 into 4 wire converter laid under the tool kit when done works very well.  
Then I pulled front signals/running lamps, snipped wires at base of socket replaced with new automotive design 12v 1157 style base. Had to open headlamp assy to pull some slack in wires; blue & brown, blue & green (R & L) then soldered in replacement pigtail. I used a ground to one of the socket clamp screws inside the assy. works fine.Remember you will need to re-use the rubber boot for securing tightly inside the lanmp base assy.
well......
Written by vwtech0, on 06-05-2008 19:19
I like to think of the next guy when modifying my motorcycle. I think I'll still buy the plug and play one.
Thanks
Written by tapeit59, on 04-09-2007 15:20
Convert to run/turn: Road Star Tail ligh
Written by Steef, on 09-18-2006 10:05
GEEEZZZZZZZZ, 
Looked this procedure over several times and figured I would give it a shot!!! 
Bought 1157 light sockets P/N 84725 from Discount Auto and found 1157 RED bulbs from PEP Boys... Had wire on hand, but did pick up bullet clips from the auto parts store as well.... Followed the procedure as printed and after getting one light in and tested I would finish the othe side the next day(I got started late in the day) and finally got what was going on in my head as far as wiring was concerned.... 
Installed the second socket wired everything up and then my "happy little world" started to unravel!!! Started blowing fuses one after another!!! What was a few hour project turned into a weeks nightmare!!! Tracing wires, almost pulled my switch apart(THANK GOD I DIDN'T) and had a few choice words for the author of this article before I found out what was going on.... Two folks told me the same thing... Look for the obvious!!! You may have a bad socket.... I performed some contiunity checks and did find that I had indeed have a bad socket (Made in Taiwan) It was shorting out everything...... I returned it and received a replacement which I installed and wired up.... Here goes the key,,, crossing fingers and asking the GOOD LORD for just a little help!!! Turned the key and everything worked as printed.... Clear lenses, RED Bulbs,, Run & Turn signals..... Really looks cool!!! Thank U Jesus!!! 
 
If this note helps just one person,,,, it was well worth it!!!! 
 
Steef :grin

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