This bike is known for not using oil and responds well to different flavors of dino or synthetic oils. Your bike will let you know what it likes as you try some different options in oil selection. Lately I've been using Royal Purple 20W50 Synthetic, which in my opinion has given good results of lower engine noise and possibly a cooler running engine.

I like to change my oil at 5000-mile intervals with the synthetic oil and have found the procedure of changing it quite simple. A one beer job, unless you are like me and tend to sit back and admire the beauty of the bike. So lets take a look at this simple procedure.

Tools Required:

1. Funnel
2. Rubber mallet
3. Shallow drain pan
4. Small oil filter wrench
5. 3/8" 17mm socket, small extension, and rachet
6. Two each 2x4 boards screwed together
7. 3/8" torque wrench
8. 17mm craftsman box-end wrench cut short

First, I get 4 quarts of oil and a new filter. I've been using the Super tech ST7317 filter that is available at Wal-Mart for a couple bucks. I find that my valve train noise is much quieter with this filter. With its larger capacity, it also adds more volume to the system as well. I do my oil changes after a good long ride as this keeps the contaminates in suspension to drain out better. It also lets the oil flow out faster during the draining. The down side is you can get burned by the hot oil if you are not quick on the drain plugs. My advise is to be quick! I set the bike up level by using two 2x4 boards screwed together under the kickstand. Be sure the handlebars are turned to the left. With the bike sitting this level, a good bump can send it over onto it's side so be careful. I then take the seat off and unscrew the dipstick but do not remove it. This allows air into the system to speed up the draining.

I have a shallow plastic drain pan that slides easily under the bike. I put it near the front engine drain bolt, which is located just inside of the kickstand pivot area. I have a craftsman 17mm box end wrench that I cut off. It is just long enough so it does not hit the floor. I tap it with a rubber mallet and loosen the drain plug. With the drain pan in place, unscrew the drain plug and slip it out quickly as the oil runs into the pan. Clean the plug and set it aside.

While the front plug is draining, I grab my oil filter wrench and loosen the filter just enough so I can turn it by hand, but not enough so it leaks. Once the front plug hole is done draining, I screw the plug back in and snug it down and wipe off any remaining oil drips. I then slide the drain pan under the filter and unscrew it enough to drain.

While the filter is draining, I take my 17mm cut box wrench and tighten the front plug. I give it a good tap with the rubber mallet and call it done. If you would like to torque the plug, the manual calls for 31 ft lbs of torque. When the filter is done draining, I spin it off and wipe down the filter base. I take the new filter and apply a light coat of fresh oil to the seal and spin it on hand tight. If you wrench it on tight then you will have quite a time removing it next time The rear oil tank drain bolt is also a 17mm. I use a 3/8" drive 17mm socket with a short extension on a rachet. Once it is turning freely, I slide the oil pan under it and remove the plug. Remember to be quick. I then clean the plug and set it aside.

When the rear plug hole is done draining, I screw the plug back in and tighten it up, Wipe up any drips remaining. Now it is time to put in the oil. One cool thing about the Roadie is it has an oil tank. This serves many purposes, but in respect to an oil change, it does require some consideration. I use a funnel and pour in 2 quarts of oil. I then put the dipstick back in and tighten it. If you do not put the dipstick back in before starting the engine, you are going to have a big oil mess to clean. So make sure it is in and tight. Start the bike and allow it to run for around 15 seconds to allow the oil to pump from the oil tank to the engine crankcase. Then shut the bike off and add 2 more quarts of oil. Reinstall the dipstick and tighten it. I then fire the bike up and kick back for a minute to observe for any leaks at the drain plugs or filter.

Clean up the oil bottles and put the tools up. After I wash my hands, I'll take the bike out for a good ride to warm it up. When I get home, I set it back on the 2x4"s for about 5 minutes. I recheck the oil level with the dipstick setting on the threads, not screwed in. If it is anywhere between the good range on the dipstick then I tighten the dipstick and call the job done. Very simple job which takes a short amount of time and saves you a lot of bucks from the dealer.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

Discuss this article on the forums. (13 posts)

DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

Comments (10)

Oil Gusher Written by gs1000, on 04-26-2009 13:16 Just finished my oil change as instructed in my owners manual on my 06 RS. After putting the remaining oil and firing it up to let it warm up, I noticed oil coming out from under the tank cover. I took the cover off and noticed that a line had come off the top of the tank. So I cleaned it up, and put the line back on and put a clamp on it. Did I do something wrong here? I've changed my oil twice a year for three years now and never had this problem.

oil change Written by frank rizzo, on 04-26-2009 00:53 I wonder if I goofed my oil change? couldn't find owners manual or this site soooo I used my trans lift, drained the oil from the front plug, and put on a new filter. after draining I put in front plug amd proceeded to put in the oil. I didn't know about the rear tank plug as it really doesn't look like a rear tank. it is part of the whole engine casting so, I put four quarts of castrol gtx in. I see where ther is a rear drain plug and I'm wondering before I fire her up, will I be ok or did I waste the castrol gtx and half to drain the rear and front and start from scratch? the engine will get the oil from the fill won't it?  frustrated and starting to hate this bike. love the old days of points, 1 plug and a filter. main question is, can I fire it up and check the oil after say a few seconds of idle and shut her down?

question about oil changing Written by RoadieRider, on 02-27-2009 19:03 I just picked up my R* this morning from the Shop.. had the top end overhauled. The mechanic told me that the rear drain plug was different oil than what is used for the engine.. like a HD.. I about fell off the stool.. I wasn't going to argue with him.. what worried me was that he said he spent an hour on the phone with a Yamaha buddy of his that confirmed that the rear drain plug was for gear oil... What's up with that??? I have changed my oil about 5 times in the 3 years I've owned my 2001 R* Silverado according to this article and my manual.. then I hear this from a dude that just overhauled my scoot!!! I guess you can't fix stupid.. He also told me that full synthetic oil should not be used in a motorcycle.. He recommended Dumonde GP4..

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