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Installing the Dyna 3000
If you have not already done so, set your dip-switches according to your needs. Refer to the Dyna 3000 Users guide, or refer to the Dyna 3000 Switch Settings article. It can be found in the same area of this website as you found this article.
Note: A switch is considered "ON" if it is moved toward the switch numbers embossed above the switch-bank -- in other words, away from the connector plugs, toward your bike's right side.
Now install the Dyna ignition module in the same place where the stock one was removed. Orient the unit so that the dip-switches become hidden by the front edge of the battery box, and the connector sockets are pointed to the left side of the bike. Also be sure to wiggle the unit all the way back, so that it has seated fully against its 'back stops'.
At this point, if you have cut an access window in the battery box, look again through your new 'access window' from inside the battery box. You should be able to see the complete dip-switch area of the Dyna. If not, one of four things is wrong:
- You might not have the unit fully seated against its furthest 'back stop'. You must look to see that it has not hung up on the rubber strap or an intermediate tab stop. It takes a firm hand and some wiggling to get the unit fully seated. However, be careful not to use excessive force that could break a mounting tab or crack the Dyna's casing.
- You may have oriented the unit wrong. It must be removed, reoriented, and reinstalled with the dip-switches pointing toward the rear of the bike, and the connector sockets pointing to the bike's left-side.
- You might be looking in the wrong place. Find the new hole you cut in the battery box. Look through that hole by placing your head, roughly above the passenger pillion (seat) area, and look forward and down into the battery box.
- You might have cut the access hole in the wrong place. You must remove the Dyna, remove the battery box, and go back to the access hole cutting steps above.
Once you are satisfied that your Dyna is set correctly and positioned right, plug the three connectors in to the unit. Start with the lower plug and work your way up. You can't get the plugs wrong, because each plug will only mount in one socket, and only in one orientation.
If you have cut a dip-switch access hole, check that your installation of the plugs has not displaced the Dyna position. The dip-switches should still be visible and properly set.
Tip: I made a tiny pillow out of a piece of foam paint brush, covered with a small piece of plastic shopping bag glued around the foam. See photos, above. When the glue dried, I pushed the pillow in to the dip-switch access hole, to keep the dip-switches protected from anything that might work--or spill--its way in to the battery box.
Collect the left-side wiring back to its original positioning, including the positive battery terminal going back up in to the battery box.
Position the wiring tray back to its original positioning, with the mounting hole positioned over its bolt-hole near the rear of the left-side cover area. Be sure all the wires are back in position, and not pinched or stressed anywhere.
Slide the mounting hole of the fuse-box back on its mounting stud.
Install and tighten the fuse-box mounting nut and the wiring tray mounting bolt/washer.
If you have removed the battery, do the following:
- Slowly lower the battery in to the box, being careful not to catch on any wires as you do this. Be sure the "+" terminal is on the left-side
- Hook the rubber retainer strap over the battery top.
- Note: The photo above merely demonstrates where on a strap I grabbed with my pliers, not necessarily which strap I grabbed.
- Tip: I hooked the front clip. Then I used a pair of needle nose pliers and slotted screwdriver to hook the rear clip.
Reinstall the battery cables with the terminal screws.
Finally, reinstall the right-side cover and seat. Then go for a test ride to be sure everything is working as planned.
If you need to adjust your Dyna 3000 dip-switch settings, refer to the Dyna 3000 Switch Settings article. It can be found in the same area of this website as you found this article.
EDITORS NOTE: Randy is a new author to the clinic, this being his first published article here. Since this article was submitted to us, we have received several more, each being of the same quality and caliber as this one. Randy is formerly a technical writer, and is currently a post-rehab specialist (MS, Parkinsons, Alzheimer's, post surgery, missing limbs). He lives in St. Louis and rides a custom candy raspberry 2003 Road Star with an iridescent black 113ci Nemesis power plant. Huge thanks from the Clinic for taking the time to put this well documented article together for us Randy!
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This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
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suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
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If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
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Quote this article on your site | Views: 65626
Written by BrooklynBiker, on 10-23-2009 03:53
|Written by heferwiz57, on 07-21-2008 20:17 |
Nice article. I have an 06 RS Silverado 1700. What is the best setting for the retard.
Runs great but has a hard time starting and backfires a bit.
Written by Mongo, on 06-14-2008 12:34
Great article. Very detailed and extremely helpful. I especially like the window access to the switch. I think I'm going to laminate a copy of the settings and slip them along side the battery. That way the next time I pull the battery to make a tweak, I have them right there in my hand.
Any chance of updating this article with a picture of the DIP switch settings (from the DYNA back or spec sheet)? It would be a convenient place to locate them in a pinch.
|Written by RICKTHETOOLMAN, on 05-09-2008 20:09 |
IM GOING TO INSTALL MY SPEED STAR IGN. MYSELF, I LOVE THIS WEB SITE. ALL I NEED IS A LITTLE TECH ADVICE AND I ALWISE FIND IT HERE.THANKS ALL
|Written by Hurricane, on 04-09-2008 00:35 |
Great job Randy, I installed a dyna on my 2004 1700 today & found it fairly easy if you take your time.
Very noticeable power improvement.
I wanted to mention that I removed my battery for the dip switch hole, but I left my battery box in place & used the flat cutting tip on my Weller soldering gun to cut the hole. Just make sure that no wires are directly behind the box.
|Written by Scotty, on 01-12-2008 02:19 |
This is fantastic! I just bought an '07 and I'm performing a Stage II upgrade. I've done the headers and the K&N filter. I've bought the Yamaha jet kit (I'm a little apprehensive about doing this by myself), but now I believe I'll go ahead with the Speedstar ignition module. I just found this site tonight and I can't believe how comprehensive the articles are. Keep it up. I might go ahead and give the re-jetting project a shot. Got any advice on that?
|Written by lee, on 01-01-2008 12:10 |
If I am experiencing only power to one coil and I have checked out all wires and connections. Is this due to the a ignition unit?
|Written by Cougar, on 09-17-2007 06:22 |
Easy to follow and well written Randy.I would like to point out to anyone removing the left side cover there is a clip nut attached to the inside bolt that has to be removed.It has a habbit of falling into the middle of your bike to parts unknown unless you are lucky enough to get it off the floor .I put a strip of duct tape over it to keep it in place for future removals.
Written by RoadieFF, on 09-04-2007 09:10
Great article Randy, excellent job with the detailed descriptions and photos. Looking forward to your other articles.
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