Parts List

• Nemesis or Dynatech coils
• Nemesis (or other, low resistance) sparkplug wire set
• Sparkplug nipple tops--quantity: 4. Required if using Nemesis sparkplug wires. Check with your supplier if you'll be using wires from other sources. The nipple tops are little screw-on tops that allow you to use standard, automotive plug wires. You know--the ones that come, loose in the box, with each new sparkplug.
• Dielectric (silicone) grease, to help reduce corrosion in electrical connections.

Tools

• 10mm box, or open end wrench
• Modest metric socket wrench set, optional
• Needle nose pliers.
• Screwdriver, slotted (--)
• Sharp knife or razor-knife

Planning Coil Placement

Before diving in to the project, you must give some thought to coil placement. I opted to keep my coils in the stock position, but they can be mounted just about anywhere. Some owners have built or purchased brackets to mount their coils between the cylinders on the left side, after they moved or eliminated their fuel pump. (see photo example below). These mounts can be hand built, or they can be purchased from several online suppliers.

Getting Down to Business

Remove the tank. Disconnect the positive battery cable.

The stock coils are attached to the frame, above the front cylinder. Unless your bike has been modified, and coils switched for some reason, the left coil feeds both sparkplugs of the rear cylinder, and the right coil feeds the front cylinder.

Next, make note of, or photograph, the routing of the plug wires for both cylinders. You won't be able to exactly copy this routing with the new coils, but knowing how the stock wires are run can give you greater confidence in routing your new ones.

I suggest replacing one coil at a time, so wire connections are not confused, even if you get interrupted.