Clinic
You CAN do it...
Going Full Bore |
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| Written by Randy Fox | |
| Saturday, 03 November 2007 | |
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Page 2 of 5
My Parts SelectionEveryone has their own tastes and goals for a project like this. You'll have to make your own choices. Each choice you make will affect the complexity of your project and the final outcome of your bike. My choices resulted in a rather high project complexity, so you may be able to skip some of my steps if you make different choices. Here's what I liked about the parts I chose:
I did not have my crank re-balanced. It would have cost an additional $100 or more, and (according to Nemesis) the re-balancing would have been minor because of the tiny weight increase.
“… Our coils are rated at 1.53 ~ 2.07 ohm resistance, (99 to 03's), so, getting that rating right in there with how our systems work, is essential.
Note: Do not try using your stock carb with a big bore engine. As I understand, trying to get it to work well is a nightmare, and it severely limits the engine's power potential.
Some have had success with using the pressure plate set-up from the Road Star Warrior. I chose to go with the Barnett to be sure.
I learned that adjustable pushrods for Road Stars, regardless of where you buy them or who’s name is logo-ed on them, are manufactured by Smith Brothers. Therefore all I had to do was compare prices. I went with Nemesis Racing aluminum pushrods. Lighter pushrods mean less energy is wasted inside the engine--pushing them up. I could have saved a little more weight by going with titanium, but it would have been three times the cost. I just didn't feel that the microscopic horsepower increase justified the high price jump. Pushrod adjustability allows you to take most of the top-end chatter out of the engine. See the Assembling the Top End document in this article series for details.
Note: If you replace your cams, you must replace your lifters, according to Nemesis Racing, Crane Cams, and other sources. |
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