Price

This is not a cheap project compared to most others for the Road Star. My project budget detail looked basically like this:

• $950 for the 113ci big-bore kit, including machine work on cylinders and cases.
• $50 for Nemesis Racing adjustable pushrods.
• $125 for Nemesis Racing valve-springs.
• $200 for a Sun (Serdi type) valve-job performed by my machinist, which included installing my Nemesis Racing springs. This is optional, but recommended for an extra horsepower or two.
• $300 for a Mikuni HSR42 carb.
• $275 for a more powerful starter (mine was more, as I got a chromed one). Yamaha Warrior starter (part#: 5PX-81890-01-00).
• $70 to upgrade the starter wires.
• $150 for a Barnett clutch kit.
• $150 for Nemesis Racing intake manifold, which I already had. Optional, but I recommend you install some kind of high-flow manifold.
• $100 in tools I didn't already have, but needed.
• $100-$150 in consumables: gaskets, oil, assembly-lube, YamaBond, etc. My suppliers were: MetricMagic.com, YamahaSportsCenter.com, SportsPlaza.com, and my Yamaha dealer, and O'Reilly Auto Parts.

While you have the engine apart, you may also want to consider:

• Oversized valves-- I skipped this, to produce better low/midrange torque, and to lessen the tendency for carbon build-up in everyday street riding.
• High-lift cams-- I skipped this, to produce better low/midrange torque, and to lessen the tendency for carbon build-up in everyday street riding.
• Ported heads-- I skipped this, to produce better low/midrange torque, and to lessen the tendency for carbon build-up in everyday street riding.
• Upgraded stator and reg/rec-- I went with Yamaha OEM parts. See the Replacing Your Generator Stator and Your Rectifier/Regulator article in this website for more details.
• Aftermarket engine covers-- for the cam & timing areas. These are the "YAMAHA" engraved plates on the engine sides.
• VOES, MAP, or TPS (modified)—optional, but helpful. See the Installing a VOES for the Mikuni HSR carburetor article in the website for more info.
• Stainless steel bolts-- I went with MMS (http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/motorcycle.htm). I sanded and polished them myself--a very dirty, tedious, long job.
• Powdercoated or painted engine-- I went with DK Powder Coating (http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/dkcoatings.html). The price will vary, depending on how much of the engine you powdercoat.

Powdercoating is roughly 10 times more durable than paint. Basically, it involves sandblasting, electrostatically charging, spraying a polyurethane polymer dust on, and bake-melting the polymer on, for each part.

Painting is much cheaper than powdercoating, of course, but you must use high-heat paint made for engine (or stove) use. The color selection is more limited, and thorough preparation and proper application is the key to a durable finish.

Gloss finishes for engine parts are generally discouraged, as they are very difficult to keep clean.

Prices listed were at the time of my purchase, and shown in very rounded numbers. Your prices may vary, of course.