Tools

• Road Star Service Manual. There are manuals for 2003 and earlier models, and ones for 2004 and up models. These available in Acrobat Reader versions, on-line, or printed.
• Air compressor for parts cleaning and operating pneumatic tools, like an impact wrench. Optional but recommended.
• Nippers (wire-cutters) for wire ties.
• Metric hex head socket set.
• A 5mm hex, long reach wrench (preferably with ball end) for getting in hard to reach places like valve covers and timing cover.
• Metric socket set with extensions.
• Large sockets: 28, 34, and 36mm. I borrowed mine from my local auto parts store, on a no-charge rental basis. These are for the front drive-pulley nut, the clutch basket nut, and the transmission drive axle nut.
• 30mm Torx head wrench, if the generator stator is to be replaced.
• Large, adjustable, open-end wrench (aka Crescent) or Yamaha sheave tool (# YS-10880), for the generator rotor. The Crescent wrench can also be used for rocker/pushrod assembly. See details in the Assembling the Generator Area article in this series.
• Heavy duty hold-down strap or Yamaha clutch holder tool for removing/installing the clutch basket. See details in the Assembling Engine’s Left Side article in this series.
• Chip brushes, or 1/4" to 1/2" firm bristle brushes, for forming the crankcase gasket, and for painting the rocker base gaskets, if desired. See the Assembling the Crankcases article in this series.
• Hydraulic bearing-press, or oven and bearing 'punches', if transmission ball bearings are to be removed/installed. Instead, I just took mine to my Yamaha dealer for them to do--for about $70.
• Hydraulic bearing-press, or 36mm (or bigger) socket or bearing 'punches', if ball bearing oil seals are to be replaced.
• Large screwdriver, cold-chisel, or equivalent, for bending over tabs on locking washers.
• Dead-blow hammer or rubber mallet for separating cases/covers and miscellaneous other stuff. I tried my rubber mallet, but the plastic dead-blow hammer worked better.
• Plastic pot/pan scraper (spatula type), wooden shims, or equivalent, for separating cases/covers. Optional.
• Motorcycle center lift, preferably hydraulic.
• Auto jack-stands, for supporting the engine during removal / installation (Qty: 2, if two people. Qty: 4, if working solo).
• 3/8" to 7/16" (10mm) steel rods, (Len: 3 or 4 feet, Qty: 2). Or other tools, for removing / installing engine. Optional, but very helpful.
• Four to six, 3’ pieces of 2”x6” or 4”x4” wood blocks for resting/supporting frame & engine.
• 1"x4"x 4' (or five foot) boards for easing the engine out of the frame--if you're working solo (qty: 3 to 4).
• 1”x2” x 7” sticks for supporting the pistons during reassembly. (qty: 2).
• Large tweezers, for installing and removing small parts.
• Magic marker (ie Sharpie) to identify contents of bags, and many other uses.
• Waste bin.
• Chair or stool.
• Torque Wrenches. I recommend one for high torque use--like above 15 ft-lbs--and a sensitive one for torques below 15 ft-lbs.
• Long breaker-bar socket wrench or impact wrench.
• Dial indicator and base, for adjusting valve rocker sync. Optional. Note: Instead, you can also use the non-dial indicator method of Joel's (Odo). See the Valve Adjustment articles, and the Adjusting the Valve Sync section of the Assembling the Top End article in this series for details.
• Open-end and box wrenches, or combination wrenches--metric.
• 10mm open-end wrenches (qty: 2), if you will be installing adjustable pushrods.
• Small, 4-5mm socket (or equiv, like a small adjustable, open-end wrench) for valve 'sync' adjustment bolt, which has a square head. See the Adjusting the Valve Sync section of the Assembling the Top End article in this series for details.
• Feeler gauge set for rings and valve sync adjustment.
• Knee-pads, as needed.
• Battery charger--motorcycle compatible--for maintaining the condition of your battery. Optional.
• Digital camera. Optional. This will allow you an easy way to show others how you're doing--tool sellers, on-line mentors, parts suppliers, and friends.

Miscellaneous Items (Parts and Tools)

• Parts: Alignment dowels, as needed, if any are found to be rusted or damaged.
• Tool: Bent over copper washer (or equivalent), for locking gears while working with cams, etc. See photo.
• Tool: Metric Tap & Die Set. Since the engine is mostly aluminum, you must watch out for thread galling, with bolt removal. As you remove it, the bolt won't feel like gets any easier to unscrew. This is a much different feeling from bolts that have been assembled with thread-lock. The result of galling is, some of the threads become torn. If minor galling happens, you must 'chase' (re-thread) both the bolt threads and the hole. Be sure to use anti-seize on such bolt-holes to reduce the chances of further issues.
• Part: Helix Coil, as needed. If chasing does not remedy the parts, you must use a helix coil. Note: Installing a helix coil is beyond the scope of this document.
• Tool: Temp Tank #1. Optional. A one-gallon gas-can that has been rigged with a little petcock near the bottom. I hang mine overhead, above the bike, with an adequately long fuel hose hooked to the carb. This way I can run the engine in the garage (with the door open, of course) without having to hassle with repeated gas tank removal and installation. The petcock I used is similar to: www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/20-868.html?id=iyivbixm, 20-868 - 1/4" Nipples Straight Cut-Off Fuel Valve, cadmium plated, low pressure valve. Replaces OEM #: 07-403. I installed a ¼” ID rubber grommet into a hole I cut into the can. Then I used gas resistant gasket maker around the hole and around the valve stem.
• Tool: Temp Tank #2. Optional. A half-gallon auxillary fuel tank that has a little petcock at the bottom. Refer to Build a Cheap and Inexpensive Aux Fuel Tank for details. I welded a nice mount to fit in where the stock tank would normally go, with an adequately long fuel hose hooked to the carb. This way I can ride the bike and make tuning adjustments, without having to hassle with repeated gas tank removal and installation. See photo below.