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You CAN do it...
Disassembling the Generator Area |
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| Written by Randy Fox | |
| Saturday, 03 November 2007 | |
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Page 2 of 3
Removing the StarterRemove the two, hex-head bolts from the left side of the starter mount--where the starter fastens to the engine, near the position of the front horn. See photo below.
Then use both hands to pull the starter free from the engine housing. Do this by simply wiggling, turning, and pulling the starter toward the left of the bike. It will feel tight at first, as there is an O-ring seal in the end of the starter. Once the O-ring begins to slide out of its seat, the starter will easily slip out. Be careful, though; it can release suddenly. If you will be re-using your starter, wrap and label it. Put the mounting bolts in a labeled baggie, tape it to the starter, and store them all together.
Removing the Generator AssemblyNow unplug the stator connector from the wiring harness. This is found behind the frame’s seat-tube, just behind the rear cylinder. See photo below.
Remove the generator shaft bolt and washer from the left-side of the engine. To do this, you must first remove the little access cover located near the starter’s bracket bolts. See photo below.
Next, remove the two bolts holding the generator’s oil-delivery-pipe into the right side of the engine. It is much easier to remove this pipe and the generator cover as one piece, rather than trying to separate them while on the engine. See photo below.
Unbolt and remove the generator cover and oil delivery pipe, as a unit. See photo above. All the generator cover bolts are the same size, except two:
The bolt nearest the oil delivery tube has a copper or aluminum washer. Keep track of (or replace) this washer, and where it goes. The generator cover is magnetized to the generator rotor. To remove the generator cover, you need to un-bolt it, pull or tap it free of its gasket seal, work it off its alignment dowels, and then pull the cover free with enough force to overcome the magnetic force. Remove, and keep track of, the two alignment dowels. They have a tendency to slip out of your hands and fall into very frustrating places, so be careful. Now that the cover is off, you can see what’s inside. Remove the generator rotor center bolt. The bolt is on very tight. To get the bolt loose you may need a long breaker-bar socket wrench or an impact wrench. In addition, you may need to hold the shaft from turning. This can be done by putting the transmission in gear and stabilizing the bike with another person. You can also use an adjustable open-end wrench (aka Crescent) at the rotor's center, or the Yamaha sheave holder tool. See photo below.
Finally, remove the generator rotor. If your engine is a 2004 or later, the rotor is kept in place by a key. As you wiggle the rotor free, make sure the key does not fall into the engine crankcase. If the rotor is stuck on its shaft, follow the instructions for earlier model engines, which follow. If your engine is a 2003 or earlier, the rotor is only held on by friction, but it can be stubborn. See Caution Tip below. To break the friction seal between the rotor and its shaft, do any combination of the following:
Caution Tip: The generator rotor is heavy. If the center bolt is not in when the rotor breaks loose from the shaft, it could fall out quickly. Take precautions to prevent injury to people, your bike, and the rotor by laying down a thickly padded landing beneath the area, being ready to catch it, and keeping clear, as best you can. |
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