Installing the Front Motor Mount

Reinstall any crash bar type accessories. While in the process of this, be sure to bolt and fasten the front engine mount back up. Torque the large, long bolt to 64 ft-lbs. Torque the bracket/frame bolts to 35 ft-lbs.

Tip: To get the lower portion of my crash bar inserted between the motor mount brackets, I squeezed the two sides together a little using a clamp with soft jaws. You could also use a very large wire-tie (cinched up), or a strong string (knotted around the two sides). This way, you don’t have to try to squeeze the crash bar halves together while also trying to line up the bracket holes.

Next, install the oil filter bracket. It has two O-rings, and four M6 bolts. See photo below. Torque the bolts to 7.2 ft-lbs. If you have removed the large, center bolt (where the oil filter cartridge screws on) for some reason, bolt it back on using 50 ft-lbs of torque.

Install a new oil filter. Then put the rest of the motor oil in the dip-stick tube (aka oil fill). I recommend 3 more quarts (in addition to the one poured down the pushrod tubes). However, some later model Road Stars reportedly run better with less oil. Refer to a reputable Yamaha dealer, your owner's manual, or the Forum section of this website for more information on how motor oil levels might affect a condition called: the Sticky Valve Syndrome (SVS) on 2004+ (1700cc series) engines.

Be sure you reinstall the dip-stick.

Now, go to the engine's left side. Install the chrome, 'Y'-shaped, oil delivery pipe. See photo below.

Remember to remove the bolt you had loosely installed in the engine case. It was put there in an earlier step to eliminate the possibility of small parts and dirt entering the engine.

Use two new, copper, crush washers for each of the three union bolts. Carefully watch or hold the pipe as you torque its bolts so that it is not distorted or bent by the torque. Use 15 ft-lbs for the bolts that go to the cylinder heads. Use 13 ft-lbs of torque for the single bolt that goes to the engine case.

Tip: I recommend you leave one of the upper union bolts loose until you're ready to start the engine. See Start-Up Tip below.

Next, reconnect the oil tank breather hose to the rear nipple on the rear valve (aka rocker) cover and to the nipple on top of the oil tank lid, near the dipstick tube. See reddened area in the photo below.

Then connect the PCV hose to the front nipple on the rear valve cover. The other end of this hose will go to your carburetor, unless your bike has been modified to route this hose to ground. See photo below.

Now you can reinstall and hook up the coils, if they have been removed. Just remember:

• The input wires can be inserted into either wire-lead tab, as long as they are connected to the correct coil.
• Sparkplug wires can go to either plug of the cylinder, as long as that cylinder is fed by the correct coil.
• Tip: The left coil goes to the rear cylinder, unless your bike has been modified for some reason. And, of course the right coil feeds the front cylinder.
• If you need more detail, refer to the Installing Nemesis or Dynatech Coils and Plug-Wires article in this website.
• Take picts.