Clinic
You CAN do it...
| Wheel Removal and Installation |
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| Written by Randy Fox | |
| Saturday, 05 April 2008 | |
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Page 2 of 7
Quick OverviewIf you've done similar tasks on other bikes, you've got the tools, and you just need a quick overview, then this page may be all you need. For more detailed instructions, also see the pages following.
Front WheelYou'll need the following tools:
If you're working solo, raise the bike to lift most of the weight off the front wheel, but leave the wheel's own weight still on the tire. If you'll be using an assistant, use the lift to raise the front wheel completely off the floor. Loosen the axle pinch bolt. It is the 6mm hex bolt, facing forward, low on the right fork. See close-up photo below. ![]()
Remove at least one brake caliper using a 12mm socket wrench. There are only two bolts, and you can let the caliper hang from its hose, or support it with a toolbox, or suspend it via a wire. See photo below. ![]()
Unscrew and remove the axle from the right side. Tip (if working solo): If you have the right amount of weight on the tire, the axle should unscrew and pull out without any binding. To achieve this, adjust the lift up or down by tiny amounts, as needed. See photo below. Tip (if using an assistant): Have your assistant lift the front tire with steadily more effort until the axle can be pulled out without any binding. See photo below. ![]()
Raise the bike further to roll the wheel out from under the fender. Tip: There is a metal, wheel, hub spacer on each side of the wheel. Keep track of them. See close-up photo below. ![]()
Assemble in reverse. Be sure to check that your tire rotation is properly oriented. Torque the axle bolt to 56 ft-lbs. Torque the pinch bolt to 14 ft-lbs.
Rear WheelYou'll need the following tools:
If you're working solo, raise the bike to lift most of the weight off the rear wheel, but leave the wheel's own weight still on the tire. If you'll be using an assistant, use the lift to raise the rear wheel completely off the floor. Loosen the rear brake caliper bracket mounting bolt on the right side of the lower swing-arm. It's a 14mm socket bolt. See photo below. ![]()
Unscrew and remove the axle by holding a wrench on each side of the axle. See photo below. Tip (if working solo): If you have the right amount of weight on the tire, the axle should pull (or push) out without any binding. To achieve this, adjust the lift up or down by tiny amounts, as needed. See photo below. Tip (if using an assistant): Have your assistant lift the rear tire with steadily more effort until the axle can be pulled (or pushed) out without any binding. See photo below. ![]()
As the axle is removed, keep track of the axle, axle nut, nut washer, and the left and right alignment blocks. See photo below. ![]()
Raise the bike high enough to work the drive belt off the rear pulley. Tip: The rear pulley can come loose, so use caution to avoid damage. Raise the bike further, to roll the tire out from under the fender. Note: There is a metal, wheel, hub spacer on each side of the wheel. Keep track of them. Assemble in reverse. Adjust the rear wheel alignment and belt tension. Then torque the axle bolt to 65 to 85 ft-lbs. Torque the brake caliper bracket bolt to 35 ft-lbs.
The following pages cover the above process in detail. Use as needed. |
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