Removing the Front Wheel

Important Tip: Do not squeeze the brake lever while your wheel is out. Otherwise you may have trouble getting the rotors back between the brake pads.

First, either lock the forks into a straight-ahead position, or move the handlebars to a hard-left steering position. Tip: The steering can be locked straight-ahead by tying thin, flexible, non-stretchy rope to each side of the handlebars (somewhere strong and secure). Then leading each string back to a convenient place on the bike -- perhaps around the frame, under the seat area. Doing this makes it a little easier to work the wheel out from the fender without binding.

Next, take most of the weight off the wheel using a lift. Leave a bit of weight on the tire -- approximately the weight of the tire and wheel. More on this later.

Drape some soft rags along the tops of the brake rotors, so when the wheel is free, they won't scratch anything. Note: The photo below was taken after the axle had already been removed.

Next use a 6mm hex (allen) wrench to loosen the pinch bolt. It is the forward facing hex bolt near the bottom of the right fork. See close-up photo below.

Remove at least one brake caliper using a 12mm wrench. There are only two bolts, and you can let the caliper hang from its hose, or support it with a toolbox, or suspend it with a wire. See photo below.

Now unscrew the axle bolt from the right side using a 22mm wrench. Tip: It threads into the left fork. See photo below.

Tip: To protect the bolt's chrome, you can place a piece of clean cloth between the bolt and wrench.

If you've got someone to help you hold and support the wheel's weight as you extract the axle, raise the bike enough that the wheel clears the ground. Then have your assistant pull up on the wheel with steadily increasing force until you can easily extract the axle. Be careful to keep the bike steady on its lift.

If you are working solo, put the right amount of weight on the tire, and extract the axle bolt. If you have the right amount of weight on the tire, the axle should unscrew and pull out without binding and little drag.

Tip: Once you’ve loosened the bolt a full turn or so, you should be able to finish unscrewing the axle using very little effort. If not, there may too much or too little weight on the tire. Adjust the lift up or down by tiny amounts, as needed, to be sure you can remove the axle easily.

Safety Note: You must be able to extract the axle with very little binding/drag (effort). Failure to do so may result in any of the following:

• Sudden lurch of the bike as the axle is removed. This may create a shift of the bike on the lift, causing the bike to fall.
• Sudden drop of the wheel/tire as the axle is withdrawn. This may also scratch or break other parts.
• Damage to the axle threads as the axle is withdrawn. This may make it difficult or impossible to install the axle back into the left fork without damaging the fork.

All these conditions and consequences may result in pinched fingers, or worse bodily harm. Exercise caution.

Once the axle is removed, just roll the wheel a little forward. As you do this, crank the lift higher and higher until the tire is free of its brake caliper (if still installed) and the front fender.

Tip: Most hydraulic center lifts move the bike sideways as they are raised or lowered. You must also move your wheel a bit sideways to avoid binding your wheel on other bike parts.

There are metal, wheel, hub spacers on each side of the wheel. Be careful not to lose them as the wheel comes out. See photo below.

Once the wheel is out, do not lay it on its side on a hard floor. This might damage a brake rotor or the hub.

Unless you will be reinstalling your wheel right away, lower the lift enough to place the rear tire back on the floor, if it is still on. Do anything and everything to reduce the risk of an accident. Ask yourself, "What if I slipped and fell against the bike? How easily could the bike fall?" If there are ways to improve safety, do them.

Tip: If your wheel will be off for more than an hour or two, be sure your lift's safety catch is enabled, if equipped. Some lift hydraulics will relax over time, resulting in the lift gradually settling down without your knowledge. I learned this the hard way when one morning I opened my garage door to discover my bike (a prior bike) laying on its right side, and the lift down!
If your lift is hydraulic, it should have several of these mechanical safety catch points. Be sure you enable the catch, and lower your lift into one of them.