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Installing New Exhaust-Header Studs
You can replace your damaged or rusted exhaust-studs with Yamaha O.E.M. replacements, but I opted to go with aftermarket, stainless ones. See the Parts Needed section above for details.
My supplier offered stainless replacement studs with two different options:
- With hex (allen) recessed facets cut into the ends. Note: This is what I got.
- With plain (blank, solid) ends, like stock studs.
The stainless won't rust, of course, but it also doesn't expand/contract as much as steel. In my opinion, this MIGHT help a little by creating less variable stress on the nuts, the gaskets, and the head -- which, in turn, MIGHT lead to less potential for seizing or loosening over time. Note: I have no proof one way or another. It's just a theory.
Examine your replacement exhaust header studs. They usually come with a short, non-threaded section near-ish the middle. If so, sure to orient the shorter thread-sections into the heads when you install them. See photo below.
If your studs have no non-threaded section, but do have a recess-hole in one end (for an allen wrench), the hole ends go out away from the heads.
To install the studs, just paint some blue thread-lock on four or five threads of the engine-head end of the stud. Then screw the stud in with your fingers.
If your new studs have a hex hole in the end, finish screwing in the stud using a hex (allen) wrench. If however, the stud ends do not have a hole, like stock ones, just thread two 8mm X 1.25 nuts onto the stud and jam them together. Then finish screwing in the stud using a wrench on the outer nut. Use 7.2 ft-lbs of torque for stock or other plain steel studs. Use 6 ft-lbs of torque for stainless steel studs--not very tight at all. Then, of course, if you used jammed nuts, un-jam and remove them.