Installing Pro One Risers
Written by Glenn Martin (Toasty)
Thursday, 10 June 2004
Reprinted by Permission of RoadStarMagazine.com
|Well, it wasn’t too hard a task, once I found the right tools *sigh*. Unfortunately the Road Star toolkit doesn’t have a big enough spanner to under the riser bolts or a large enough Alan key to undo the hex bolts holding down the existing clamps. I also found it difficult to access the large bolts holding the risers with the headlight in place so I removed it for the job. The bars and top clamp themselves are done in decent chrome but if I wanted to be picky the chrome on one of the risers is a little average, but I am not that picky. I am a little disappointed that the risers do not fit the holes as snugly as the original risers do, as the new ones are oval in shape whereas the existing ones are circular.
** Disclaimer **
These are not official instructions for installing the Pro 1 Risers (no instructions come with them), this is only how I did it myself and this should only be used for informational purposes only. The assembler assumes ALL risk.
You will need…
- Pro 1 Riser Kit for Yamaha Road Star (duh)
- Ensure the bolts for the risers are at least two and a half inches long, if less, replace them.
- Your Road Star Tool Kit
- 19mm Spanner
- Alan Key (hex bolt) 1 or 2 sizes larger than the largest in your tool kit
- Masking Tape
- Couple of Towels
- Locktight (follow instructions for the locktight before applying any new bolts)
- Some Beer (2 or 3 bottles of any fine Australian brew other than Fosters should do)
- Place some masking tape on the INSIDE of your existing handlebar risers to mark where your handlebars are now so you know you will have it centred later
- Place a towel over your gas tank and remove the hex bolts from your existing risers, remove the top part of the risers and move and rest your handlebars on the towel on your tank. Be careful how far back the handlebars lean as your brake line will be pulled fairly tight.
- (OPTIONAL) Remove the two phillips head screws from your headlight housing. Remove the headlight itself by disconnecting the lead that goes into it. Then remove the three bolts on the inside of your headlight housing to remove it from your bike. Don’t disconnect the remaining leads, just rest your housing on a towel over your front fender (now would be a good time to fix the headlight rattle too)
- You should now have easy access to the bolts that hold your risers to the frame. Undo the bolts using the 19mm spanner. I found it easiest to hold the bolt in place with the spanner and spin the riser to unscrew the bolt once loosened. (You can try accessing them from the rear of the frame, tank side, with the front tyre turned to the maximum angle but I couldn’t get enough leverage that way hence removing the headlight)
- Feed the new riser bolt up from underneath NOT forgetting the locking washer (the washer that is split) and attach to the new riser bar. Screw in until just beyond finger tight and then repeat with the other side
- Move the handlebars on top of the new risers, again taking care of the brake line, and attach the top plate over the risers. Ensure that you have lined the bars up exactly centre measuring off the masking tape. Tighten the bottom hex bolts considerably and only tighten the top hex bolts enough to hold the bars in place.
- Now it is a matter of sitting in the riding position and moving the bars up and down until you feel comfortable. The further down you take the bars though the tighter the brake line will get so it is a good idea to loosen the TOP hex bolt from the clamp holding the brake housing to your handlebars so your line doesn’t get to tight by mistake.
- Once you have found a comfortable position with the handlebars tighten the top hex bolts and then super tighten all the hex bolts in an even manner moving round in a circle. This should also pull the riser bars exactly into line and now you can tighten the riser bar bolts from underneath as tight as possible. Also tighten your front brake-housing clamp if you loosened it.
- Reassemble your headlight
- There should now be no play at all in the handlebars in the riser clamps and only a tiny bit of play in the risers themselves where they attach to your frame. This is the rubber mounting for your handlebars that produces this play to lesson vibrations.
- After TRIPLE checking that ALL bolts are good and tight (don’t want your handlebars falling off on the first ride now do you) take it for a spin. If you need to adjust the height of your handlebars loosen only the top two hex bolts enough to get some play out of the bars and then extra tighten again once satisfied.
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This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
be performed by a
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
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|Thanks for the tip|
Written by ghlaise, on 05-03-2011 07:07
I was changing my risers last night thanks for the tip, but i was so disappointed when i opened the new ones, only to find there were
no new bolts so had to get them today and i will Finnish the job tonight and will get some comfort on the bike, thanks again for the tip on how to do it.
Written by ncwndr, on 01-28-2011 18:33
how do i pull the trouble codes on my 2008 roadstar silverado
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