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Reprinted by Permission from FatBike
The Stages of Pipe Drilling
Drilling the stock pipes is the most popular modification among ‘Star owners. The stock pipes are very restrictive and quiet, primarily in order to meet the strict guidelines in some of the states that the bikes are sold. Of course, we all want sound and performance. Aside from investing several hundred dollars in a quality set of aftermarket pipes, this is the most effective way to get there. “Staging” will also allow you the flexibility to tune the sound to your liking.
Below are the stages and how they are done: |
Stage 1
Introduction
Stage 1 involves removing the cone from the back of the muffler, or “slip-on” portion of the exhaust system. This exposes the plate that holds the final exhaust tube in place. holes in this plate frees up the system and significantly changes the tone and volume. This is the idea behind Stage 1.
It is best to perform the following procedures with the muffler set removed from the header pipe and taken off of the bike.
1. Use a ‘Dremmel’ type tool to cut the weld that holds the tailpipe cone to the exhaust pipe. This will completely free the cone. The cone can now be removed from the muffler. This can be tricky. If you like, tap a sheet metal screw into the surface of the cone, which gives you a grab point. Once removed, the cone is useless, so looks aren’t important, however you will want to minimize the damage to the center pipe, because with stages 1 & 2 the pipe remains where it is.
2. Once the cone is removed, use a punch to mark where your holes will go. Start at 12:00/3:00/6:00/9:00 and drill ½” holes.
3. Reinstall the mufflers and start the bike. If you are happy, you are done. Most will probably want to drill additional holes at the mid-point between the holes you just drilled, giving you a total of 8 holes in the baffle plate. This tends to reduce the “fluffing” sound that only 4 holes will give you.
Click on picture above to enlarge
Stage 2
Introduction
Stage 2, as this is generally referred to, is the process of drilling “blindly” into the lower baffle plate. This is accomplished using a long drill bit and drilling through the holes that you drilled in the first baffle plate and into the second baffle plate. The effect is a slightly louder exhaust.
Again, it is recommended that you remove the mufflers from the head pipe, and take them off the bike.
1. Using an 18” long drill bit, enter the holes that you drilled for Stage 1. Find the second baffle plate and drill random holes in the plate.
*Note... The effect that stage 2 has is minimal. Generally speaking, if Stage 1 has grown old, or if it does not provide the desired sound, you should skip Stage 2 and go to the Stage 3 modification.
Stage 3
Introduction
The Stage 3 modification seems to be the most popular. In fact I have done 3 sets of Stage 3 pipes without ever stopping at Stage 1 or 2. The process essentially defeats the 1st and 2nd baffle chambers and uses only reduction and re-direction as the means of baffling the sound. The modification is reasonably simple and once Stage 1 is complete, you’re half way there!
1. Using a 1” hole saw, drill out the first baffle plate in an overlapping fashion, essentially eliminating the baffle plate entirely. You will leave jagged edges, and a center pipe that is no longer supported.
2. Using a hammer and chisel (or comparable tool) push the jagged edges that are attached to the center pipe back out of the way.
3. Using the same method, push the jagged edges back that are around the outside edge (attached to the inside wall of the exhaust) of the muffler. You can also grind or cut them off, although this is time consuming and the net effect is the same.
4. Insert something sturdy into the center pipe. Whatever it is, it should fit inside the pipe tightly, and give you a firm area to grip. You will then twist and turn the center pipe, using as much force as possible, until you feel the weld in the bottom of the pipe give way. Continue working the pipe until it comes completely out of the muffler.
5. All that is left is to clean up the inside of the pipe by working with the leftover edges and using some flat black spray paint.
It is strongly recommended that you re-jet the carburetor at Stage 3. A Dyno-Jet kit using a 165 to 170 main should be sufficient. You do not want to run too lean and because the stock setup tends to run lean already, allowing exhaust to exit easier tends to exaggerate the condition.
The end result will be a better running, better sounding bike, no matter which stage you choose.
 
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DISCLAIMER:
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
always
be performed by a
professional mechanic.
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
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what about back pressure
Written by questor, on 08-29-2010 00:16
I know it's probably and old question . . .
But isn't back pressure important to the valves??
could they burn out is there anything I should do along with the drill out ???? |
Written by Big Denny, on 05-11-2010 16:55
 new to from Ilove to read about things I want to do before I try them . Just retired at 65 and want too start ridin g again wife said I am out of my mind at my age hell its only bing 40 years since last ride . hope I am not too old to start over thanks for all forms |
Stage 3
Written by DirtyStar, on 05-10-2010 12:47
Got inner pipes busted loose but they do not want to come out. I guess the busted weld is hanging up inside the baffle? Any suggestions? |
Stage One
Written by RickeyT, on 04-08-2010 21:15
Stage one mod today. Ended up drilling 8 1/2 holes. Went by my neighbors house (Harley Owner) and the first thing he said was "man that sounds good now". I was very hesitant about modifying the exhaust. So I found a set of take offs for $45 and now still have the stock mufflers in case. Cutting the cones off is the hardest part. I took my time and ended up cutting all the way around the inner pipe. Looks and sound great. Total time about two hours. Could do this in about 1 hour now. So far no bad things to report so far. |
Bosco
Written by Gram, on 03-28-2010 15:29
These bikes run a fixed timing. I have tuned hundreds of them and never adjusted the timing. So I would be concerned about what you got if the dealer told you they did that. To your point, this does change air flow characteristics. Most of the time it is within the tolerances of the bikes tuning. If you also have an aftermarket air kit, it won't be and you will need to rejet - so plan accordingly.
If anyone does this and gets an undesirable result, I would suggest posting in the forum to ask for suggestions on how to resolve it. That would probably have saved you some money.
And fwiw, a lot of dealers will tell you horror stories. |
Modify Exhaust
Written by Bosco, on 03-28-2010 13:11
I did this and it changed how my bike ran as it changes the exhaust flow and the timing had to be adjusted. These bikes are a fine tuned machine and the slightest change in the intake or exhaust might change how your bike runs. Be carful as it cost me $85.00, hours labor, to have Yamaha reset the timing. I have friends who love to tinker with their bikes and have to pay someone to fix what they did. Next time you're in a dealer ask and they'll tell you horror stories. Ask them first and they'll be glad to tell you for free if what you're trying to do will alter something else other than what you're trying to accomplish. |
Exhaust modification
Written by rickdebbuffy, on 11-22-2009 19:32
I cut past the end cap with a rotarty tool about 1" and the exhaust sounds great with out any drilling. It gives the bike the sound I was looking for without being to loud, removed the end cap with a small pry bar and painted it black. Looks great and sounds great. |
Written by umaga, on 11-09-2009 14:08
cant you send me a full process of 1100 .vstar-07 exhaustthe sound of my stock exhaust is garbage.thanks |
Stage one convert
Written by Valentino, on 10-21-2009 17:58
Removed the pipes, removed the cones, drilled 4 - 1/2" " holes in each pipe.Reinstalled and went for a good ride. Too much fluffing( as indicated in the article). Left the pipes on the bike and drilled 8- 9/16" holes. Sounds great!No need to go any farther...at this time. Great article, no problem following instructions. THANKS !!!
I found a new set of OEM take-offs at the local dealer for $100. Always good to have a back-up. |
Written by ks_scot, on 10-14-2009 11:56
I did stage one a few months ago, sounds great. Not quite the sound I want though. Haven't been able to find a drill bit long enough to do stage 2, and thought about skipping on to stage 3 anyway. However, somewhat intimidated by the rejetting - might be a nice winter's day project. I did call 2 local dealers, and they were both willing to rejet the carbs, anywhere from $150-300. |
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