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Reprinted by Permission from FatBike
The Stages of Pipe Drilling
Drilling the stock pipes is the most popular modification among ‘Star owners. The stock pipes are very restrictive and quiet, primarily in order to meet the strict guidelines in some of the states that the bikes are sold. Of course, we all want sound and performance. Aside from investing several hundred dollars in a quality set of aftermarket pipes, this is the most effective way to get there. “Staging” will also allow you the flexibility to tune the sound to your liking.
Below are the stages and how they are done: |
Stage 1
Introduction
Stage 1 involves removing the cone from the back of the muffler, or “slip-on” portion of the exhaust system. This exposes the plate that holds the final exhaust tube in place. holes in this plate frees up the system and significantly changes the tone and volume. This is the idea behind Stage 1.
It is best to perform the following procedures with the muffler set removed from the header pipe and taken off of the bike.
1. Use a ‘Dremmel’ type tool to cut the weld that holds the tailpipe cone to the exhaust pipe. This will completely free the cone. The cone can now be removed from the muffler. This can be tricky. If you like, tap a sheet metal screw into the surface of the cone, which gives you a grab point. Once removed, the cone is useless, so looks aren’t important, however you will want to minimize the damage to the center pipe, because with stages 1 & 2 the pipe remains where it is.
2. Once the cone is removed, use a punch to mark where your holes will go. Start at 12:00/3:00/6:00/9:00 and drill ½” holes.
3. Reinstall the mufflers and start the bike. If you are happy, you are done. Most will probably want to drill additional holes at the mid-point between the holes you just drilled, giving you a total of 8 holes in the baffle plate. This tends to reduce the “fluffing” sound that only 4 holes will give you.
Click on picture above to enlarge
Stage 2
Introduction
Stage 2, as this is generally referred to, is the process of drilling “blindly” into the lower baffle plate. This is accomplished using a long drill bit and drilling through the holes that you drilled in the first baffle plate and into the second baffle plate. The effect is a slightly louder exhaust.
Again, it is recommended that you remove the mufflers from the head pipe, and take them off the bike.
1. Using an 18” long drill bit, enter the holes that you drilled for Stage 1. Find the second baffle plate and drill random holes in the plate.
*Note... The effect that stage 2 has is minimal. Generally speaking, if Stage 1 has grown old, or if it does not provide the desired sound, you should skip Stage 2 and go to the Stage 3 modification.
Stage 3
Introduction
The Stage 3 modification seems to be the most popular. In fact I have done 3 sets of Stage 3 pipes without ever stopping at Stage 1 or 2. The process essentially defeats the 1st and 2nd baffle chambers and uses only reduction and re-direction as the means of baffling the sound. The modification is reasonably simple and once Stage 1 is complete, you’re half way there!
1. Using a 1” hole saw, drill out the first baffle plate in an overlapping fashion, essentially eliminating the baffle plate entirely. You will leave jagged edges, and a center pipe that is no longer supported.
2. Using a hammer and chisel (or comparable tool) push the jagged edges that are attached to the center pipe back out of the way.
3. Using the same method, push the jagged edges back that are around the outside edge (attached to the inside wall of the exhaust) of the muffler. You can also grind or cut them off, although this is time consuming and the net effect is the same.
4. Insert something sturdy into the center pipe. Whatever it is, it should fit inside the pipe tightly, and give you a firm area to grip. You will then twist and turn the center pipe, using as much force as possible, until you feel the weld in the bottom of the pipe give way. Continue working the pipe until it comes completely out of the muffler.
5. All that is left is to clean up the inside of the pipe by working with the leftover edges and using some flat black spray paint.
It is strongly recommended that you re-jet the carburetor at Stage 3. A Dyno-Jet kit using a 165 to 170 main should be sufficient. You do not want to run too lean and because the stock setup tends to run lean already, allowing exhaust to exit easier tends to exaggerate the condition.
The end result will be a better running, better sounding bike, no matter which stage you choose.
 
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DISCLAIMER:
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
always
be performed by a
professional mechanic.
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
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saved a few dollars
Written by Synagris, on 05-15-2009 17:47
Just finished the stage 1 mod.... sounds good went over to friend to share the rubble. Looks like we'll be working over his bike tomarrow night.Thanks Fatbike.. |
The true stage one!!!
Written by Hay Bay Woody, on 05-10-2009 18:19
Hi guys:
Want your stock mufflers to continue to look stock, but sound better than any mufflers you can buy???
Take your dremel type tool and cut off the inner pipe one inch in past the cone. With a screw driver, pry the cut off pipe up out of the way. Your mufflers will still look completely stock, but they will have a louder, much nicer sound, because the mufflers now act like an echo chamber, giving that inboard motorboat sound rather than the annoying blaaat of straight pipes. |
Written by starstruck06, on 05-10-2009 06:05
Will dealers jet carbs ? I was turned away like the plauge after asking one . ?? a little intimidated to try it myself, as I like to ride my bike not stare at it wishing it worked. Is jetting always neccessary after stage one or aftermarket pipes?? |
The Sound I always wanted
Written by Ratchit, on 05-09-2009 19:31
Just finished the Stage 1 on my '07 RS, 8 half-inch holes in each pipe, fired it up and almost shed a tear from my one good eye. The sound was freakin' BEAUTIFUL, the sound that has been in my head for maybe 20 years. Haven't done the WOT test yet, will check the plugs after fifty miles or so, but I immediately noticed that the scoot runs cooler and a few more ponies are pulling down there! Thank you, phatbike, wherever you are! |
Stage One mods on You Tube
Written by elgordo496, on 04-18-2009 07:59
Hi Guys
I have seen this demonstrated on You Tube on a Yamaha R-Star. It looked like the guy just drilled his holes straight through the exaust cones?? Will this work?? |
Performance changes
Written by Icemandarian, on 04-17-2009 19:41
Hey guys new to this forum and have a question about the exhaust mods. Do you lose backpressure and power with a stage 1 mod? stage 3? Thx |
Written by Darn Oldie, on 04-15-2009 15:40
 Wifey doesn't like loud pipes, and I'm not a big fan either, but stage 1 with just 4 holes makes it sound more like a bike of it's caliber, not a sissy. Thanks Guys! BTW, I used a dremel to cut the cone and brand new Dewalt 1/2" drill bit, time was just under 1/2 an hour. |
Stage One Mufflers
Written by oldman72, on 04-10-2009 09:11
I have a 2008 Road Star Silverado S.
I operated on the stock mufflers and found out that they are filled with a material used in catalitic converters.
Very difficult to remove.
Worst of all, at least for me,the sound was loud.
I ended up buying a muffler set off of a 2007. After removal of the cone I drilled (4)1/2 inch and (4) 1/4 inch holes equally spaced.
Stage one is good enough for me. |
Drills are for pu55ies
Written by vwtech0, on 03-24-2009 14:30
I attempted to drill out holes in the baffles. I'm too cheap to buy good drill bits, so after 5 minutes (still on the same hole) I remembered something. I'm a freakin auto mechanic. There it was in my bottom center drawer. My precious Snap-on air hammer and my 18 inch chisel blade. MUHAHAHAHAHA!!!. I cut the inner portion around the center pipe and then the outer portion off of the inside of the muffler. Stage 1 complete. Same thing on the next chamber wall. I then took 2 angle tipped prybars, back to back and inserted them into the little pipe. After about a minute of back and forth and a little twisting it came right out. Stage 2 complete. The long air hammer bit went perfectly into the third chamber wall. Success. Stage 3. A little clean up pushing the sharply cut edges flat and all is well in the land of THUNDER. No drill bits. And all said in done in about 10-15 minutes with no exhaust removal. |
Written by Ptaaty, on 03-20-2009 17:35
Wow....stage 3 sounds much better than stage 1. Louder but not that much louder...mostly a much nicer sound. Lower, a bit of a sharper rap on accel, and best of all no more fluffing (which was bad on decel). Sounds freaking amazing and looks a lot cleaner than stage 1 as well.
Wholeheartedly recommend just going to three. |
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