Drill the Stock Exhaust (stage 1, 2, 3) Print
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Written by Fatbike   
Friday, 11 June 2004

Reprinted by Permission from FatBike

The Stages of Pipe Drilling

Drilling the stock pipes is the most popular modification among ‘Star owners.  The stock pipes are very restrictive and quiet, primarily in order to meet the strict guidelines in some of the states that the bikes are sold.  Of course, we all want sound and performance.  Aside from investing several hundred dollars in a quality set of aftermarket pipes, this is the most effective way to get there.  “Staging” will also allow you the flexibility to tune the sound to your liking.

Below are the stages and how they are done:


Stage 1

Introduction

Stage 1 involves removing the cone from the back of the muffler, or “slip-on” portion of the exhaust system.  This exposes the plate that holds the final exhaust tube in place.  holes in this plate frees up the system and significantly changes the tone and volume. This is the idea behind Stage 1.

It is best to perform the following procedures with the muffler set removed from the header pipe and taken off of the bike.

1. Use a ‘Dremmel’ type tool to cut the weld that holds the tailpipe cone to the exhaust pipe.  This will completely free the cone.  The cone can now be removed from the muffler.  This can be tricky.  If you like, tap a sheet metal screw into the surface of the cone, which gives you a grab point.  Once removed, the cone is useless, so looks aren’t important, however you will want to minimize the damage to the center pipe, because with stages 1 & 2 the pipe remains where it is.
2. Once the cone is removed, use a punch to mark where your holes will go.  Start at 12:00/3:00/6:00/9:00 and drill ½” holes.
3. Reinstall the mufflers and start the bike.  If you are happy, you are done.  Most will probably want to drill additional holes at the mid-point between the holes you just drilled, giving you a total of 8 holes in the baffle plate.  This tends to reduce the “fluffing” sound that only 4 holes will give you./user/Drill_ustration.jpg

Click on picture above to enlarge

Stage 2

Introduction

Stage 2, as this is generally referred to, is the process of drilling “blindly” into the lower baffle plate.  This is accomplished using a long drill bit and drilling through the holes that you drilled in the first baffle plate and into the second baffle plate.  The effect is a slightly louder exhaust.

Again, it is recommended that you remove the mufflers from the head pipe, and take them off the bike.

1. Using an 18” long drill bit, enter the holes that you drilled for Stage 1.  Find the second baffle plate and drill random holes in the plate.

*Note... The effect that stage 2 has is minimal.  Generally speaking, if Stage 1 has grown old, or if it does not provide the desired sound, you should skip Stage 2 and go to the Stage 3 modification.

Stage 3

Introduction

The Stage 3 modification seems to be the most popular.  In fact I have done 3 sets of Stage 3 pipes without ever stopping at Stage 1 or 2.  The process essentially defeats the 1st and 2nd baffle chambers and uses only reduction and re-direction as the means of baffling the sound.  The modification is reasonably simple and once Stage 1 is complete, you’re half way there!

1. Using a 1” hole saw, drill out the first baffle plate in an overlapping fashion, essentially eliminating the baffle plate entirely.  You will leave jagged edges, and a center pipe that is no longer supported.
2. Using a hammer and chisel (or comparable tool) push the jagged edges that are attached to the center pipe back out of the way.
3. Using the same method, push the jagged edges back that are around the outside edge (attached to the inside wall of the exhaust) of the muffler.  You can also grind or cut them off, although this is time consuming and the net effect is the same.
4. Insert something sturdy into the center pipe.  Whatever it is, it should fit inside the pipe tightly, and give you a firm area to grip.  You will then twist and turn the center pipe, using as much force as possible, until you feel the weld in the bottom of the pipe give way.  Continue working the pipe until it comes completely out of the muffler.
5. All that is left is to clean up the inside of the pipe by working with the leftover edges and using some flat black spray paint.

It is strongly recommended that you re-jet the carburetor at Stage 3.  A Dyno-Jet kit using a 165 to 170 main should be sufficient.  You do not want to run too lean and because the stock setup tends to run lean already, allowing exhaust to exit easier tends to exaggerate the condition.

The end result will be a better running, better sounding bike, no matter which stage you choose.

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Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

Discuss this article on the forums. (118 posts)


DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.


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  Comments (10)
Written by CUDGYBEAR, on 08-23-2008 23:05
Hi everyone, just asking what is a good after market exhaust for a xv1600 i would like better sound and performance.Will the carby need rejetting. I live in NORTH QUEENSLAND AUSTRALIA thanks for any help . cudgybear
Stage 1 mod
Written by Beetle, on 08-15-2008 10:26
Love it a lot. The sound is grrrrrreat. Has anybody noticed if they are using more gas after the mod or not? Do I need to do anything with the pms or any of the carburetor mixing screws?
stage three
Written by llp505, on 08-03-2008 17:43
I did the stage there and adjusted the pms it is set there turns out from light touch the bike seem to come alive after it warmed up I took it for a spin and tried to get it ti backfire on decel with no pops 4th seem to run longer before shift to 5th sounds great 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
i
Great results!
Written by hllywd, on 08-01-2008 12:41
I did the stage 1. I didn't however take my pipes off to do it. Total time was less than a half hour and closer to 20 minutes! I drilled all eight holes without trying it at 4 and have to say I was kinda shocked at how big of a difference it made in the exhaust sound! I painted the inside with some grill paint but I'm still not thrilled with how the pipes look from the rear, it just looks unfinished. I'm going to try to find some slash cut tips that will mount just at the front of the taper on the stock pipes to dress them up. Thumbs up for this mod otherwise! I'll have to do a PMS adjustment too to help with the popping that I had before drilling the exhaust that is more pronounced now.
sound
Written by llp505, on 07-27-2008 11:22
is their a sound clip of stage 1 and stage3
Stage 1...easy!
Written by laslet, on 07-21-2008 13:56
Just did the stage 1 mod. over the weekend. Very easy and did the trick with those all to quiet stock pipes. Sounds like it should and covers up those Road Star vibration noises. Thanks for the step by step on this modification. Time to move on to my next one.
Thanx for great tech info
Written by BigShawnM, on 06-26-2008 12:39
I didn't even know you could modify the stock exhaust until I read this article. Thanx again.
05 roadie cont...
Written by vwtech0, on 05-24-2008 13:20
Ok. Hellrisercustoms.com has there head up there butts. I ordered a 1700 jet kit and got a 1600 jet kit. Oh well...Whats another week or two.  
Anyways... As we know, I have done the stage 3 exhaust mod. I drilled out the cover and adjusted the PMS (pilot mixture screw or primary mixture screw?) to 3 turns out. as stated in the 1700 jet kit instructions. But I found it 1/4 turn out. I think I hit it with the drill bit. OOPS!. Anyways.. After turning it 3 turns out, it warmed up so much quicker. I drove it around the block and it feels strong, doesn't lag, no stumbling, etc. Its not acting cold natured at all. When i shut it off I didn't get the customary boop/boop from the exhaust. (backturning?, dieselling?) 
Now. These instructions for the exhaust mod state to use a 165 dynojet to replace the main. However, soemwhere else in these tech tips ( http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/60/96/ ) it states that there should be a 165 mikuni jet already there. But a 165 mikuni jet is larger than a 165 dynojet. Acoording to http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/61/96/ a 165 mikuni is equal to a 176 dynojet. Should I go with the dj165 or is that only for the 1600 engines? The DJ kit for a 1600 comes with 160 165 190 195. The DJ kit for the 1700 comes with 165 170 175 190 195 200 and 210, Plus a pilot jet 037. Could you clarify that for us? Both kits are stage 1 and 2 kits.
05 Roady
Written by vwtech0, on 05-20-2008 22:40
I went from stage one for a day to stage 3. Sounds great. Needs jetted.  
But using a drill is extremely slow with good bits or crappy bits. I spend entirely 2 1/2 minutes trying to drill my first hole and remembered...."I'm an auto mechanic....I have an AIR CHISEL!!!!!!".... Two minutes later I have 8 holes. (punched, not drilled). Thats right. 2 solid minutes. The hardest part was pulling the bit out of the holes. We're taling "like Butta". Sounded great but had the deceleration hiss.  
So stage 3 took about 10 minutes. Same air chisel. Flat tipped bit. "Like Butta". Using a hammer and screwdriver, it took me 4 taps total to flatten any protruding edges. I used 2 bent tipped prybars back to back and wiggled stage 1 and stage 2 pipes out. Fired it up and its deep and low. On the freeway, Its not as loud as it could be. At least it seems that way. But it does get droning after a bit. After about a week the front pipe is starting to blue. Its either from me doing 90mph all the time or it needs jetted.
Drill the Stock Exhaust (stage 1,
Written by Brad4501, on 05-18-2008 13:44
:grin Hi Guys - I have just completed Stage 1 on my 04 1700cc Silverado and what a difference to the sound of our bike, it sounds GREAT. Just the thing to wake the neigbours up on an early Sunday morning. :grin

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