The jetting is not terribly complicated if you remember this: 

Do not disconnect the throttle Position sensor from the Carburetor. 

• Remove the nut that holds the choke cable on the left side, and remove the cable from the bracket. 
• Remove the idle adjusting cable from its bracket. 
• Disconnect the gas line at the carburetor. 
• Completely loosen the throttle cables. 
• Unplug the two electric leads to the carburetor heater on the bottom of the carb. 
• Now loosen up the clamp that holds the carb in the rubber boot. 
• With a pull and wiggle motion the carb will come out of the boot. 
• Tilt it slightly to the left and remove the throttle cables. The cables align with a groove and slide out. 
• Keep a rag under the carb as gas will come out when you rotate it. 
• With the cables now off, rotate the carb to the right until it is upside down. 
• You have to loosen the brass carburetor heater to remove the bowl. Caution, when you tighten the heater back up, be very careful
  not to tighten it too much, they break quite easily. 
• You have to remove the four screws from the bowl to remove it. They are soft headed screws and strip quite easily. 
• I used a good set of needle nose vise grips to break the tightness of the screws. 
• Others have used a Dremel grinding tool with a cut-off wheel and cut a slot for a slotted screwdriver, or even cut the head off if worse comes to worse.
• Replace with Allen head screws.
• Remove the screws.
• When removing the bowl lift it straight up and be careful not to hit the floats.

• Remove the jet with a flat blade screw driver and put in your new main jet. 
• Replace the float bowl being careful not to hit the floats.
• Use the Barons allen head screws to secure the bowl. 
• Tighten the Heater back up....lightly. 
• Now you have to remove the brass plug from the Pilot mixture screw housing, if it has not been removed already. This is a tubular housing that rises from behind the bowl in the middle.  It should have a brass plug with a small hole in the middle. 
• The Baron gives you a drill bit to drill the hole larger. 
  Be careful not to drill into it too far and hit the screw below. 
• Use the metal screw the Baron gave you to screw into the brass plug.
• Use a set of vise grips to grab the screw and wiggle the plug out. 
• You will see a small flat head screw inside.
• With the carb upside down, tighten the screw clockwise until it lightly seats.
• Now back the screw out three and one half turns. 
• Now put the carb back into the boot, placing the throttle cables in place before you insert it into the rubber boot. 
• Tighten the clamp. 

Needle Replacement

• Now remove the two screws that hold the black plastic cap on the top.  The cap will rise because of the slide spring under it.
• Remove the cap and remove the long spring. The slide is connected to the rubber diaphragm.
  It just lifts straight out the top. 
• With the slide removed, look inside the slide. You'll see a plastic tab.  Grab the tab with a needle nose pliers and wiggle and pull straight outward.  Be careful as not to break the tab by pulling at an odd angle.  It will pop out as it is held in with only an O ring.  It should have a small spring connected to it. 
  Now the needle is ready to come out.
• Push the needle up and grab the end. When you have a hold of the needle, turn the slide upside down and finish removing it so the washer and spacer don't fall off the end. 
• Now take your new needle and place the clip on the indicated groove the Baron has recommended.  Always count down from the top.
• Place the white plastic spacer under the clip from the stock needle.
• Do not use the washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle.
• Put a washer on the top of the clip. Now insert it back into the slide and press the plastic tab with the spring back in.
• Make sure the rubber diaphragm is seated properly with the O ring towards the rear. 
• Put the slide spring back in and replace the cap and tighten the screws. 
• Connect the two electrical leads to the heater
• connect the gas line
• Put the choke cable back in the bracket, and the idle cable back in it's bracket
• Your finished with the carb.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

Discuss this article on the forums. (24 posts)

---

DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

Quote this article on your site | Views: 36266

Comments (10)

Written by Rev-it, on 06-05-2008 00:57 I put on vance & hines longshots. How do I know if I need to re-jet?

Rejetting Required? Written by JTSr, on 05-27-2008 04:20 I have a 2007 Road Star 1700. It is all stock...right now. Just purchased HDK Sideburners 2 into 1 pipes. Should I rejet my carb? I am reading conflicting info. Musky keeps saying no, but I here some folks say yes. I also live in Colorado Springs, Colorado...approx 6,400 ft el. Sometimes ride up to 11,000 ft el. Also, what does it take to remove the AIS sys on the bike, and what are the ramifications if I do so? Any suggestions?

base jet and needle settings for 04 road Written by new roadie owner, on 02-28-2008 20:09 looking for what should be the starting jet size and needle settings for my bike just bought and seems to get poor fuel mileage,and seems to be running rich. what are the stock jet settings? it has v&h longshots and stock air filter please advise

going for it Written by mhubb303, on 12-29-2007 01:32 i will be going for it tomarrow so if anyone wants to find out how im doing, email at mhubb001@comcast.net or call at 8656406463,,,,be brave men and may someone be looking over my shoulder.

rejet or not rejet Written by mhubb303, on 12-29-2007 01:25 im putting aHMF co on a 1999 grizzly 600. i dont have a k&n yet but soon. do i even need to rejet? the paperwork that came with the muff said changing the jet would be benificial whatever that means. i meant i know is suppost to benifet me do it. so do it?

testing with lamda Written by n5ifi, on 06-07-2007 15:04 Can you supply some pictures for the Forum Henning?

testing with lamda. Written by henning, on 01-16-2007 14:22 I am sorry for my poor english. (I am Norwegian). hwen I read all this about this carburator adjustment, I cant be able to see that no one hawe use a Lamda probe (sound) to adjust carburator. it is werry easy and cheap tool. it cand be taken from a car engine and use a voltmeter to measure the volt. (hawe to be able to measure microvolt) or bye a finish instrument with lightdiode, to see how the micture is. only drill a hole in the exospipe, weld on a nut, skrew in the lamda, connect to batteri (if necessary , som do, som not) and to voltmeter ore to instrument. then U will see at all time (rpm and load) how Ur mixture is. my is taken from a car, and I paid ca 30 dollar for the instrument. (with lightdiodes)

Written by arty, on 11-05-2006 02:08 beuler - bueler - anybody ..

Jetting Written by arty, on 10-02-2006 04:28 I have same query as above - if I go to stage three, is it essential to rejet or will a needle adjustment do it? I have not had the carby apart, can we adjust stock needle?

Ok, I'm confused. Written by EJ, on 09-22-2006 22:48 The information is great. If I am reading the chart correctly, the 165 jet that was taken out of my carb, is larger than the dj165 with which it was replaced. The clip is in the 3rd position. My bike has the ais removed, new air cleaner and 2 inch drag pipes. Typical backfire and lack of power. What would be a good combination for the jet and needle position. Should I go back to the stock needle? Thanks

Only registered users can write comments.
Please login or register.

Powered by AkoComment Tweaked Special Edition v.1.4.6
AkoComment © Copyright 2004 by Arthur Konze - www.mamboportal.com
All right reserved