The jetting is not terribly complicated if you remember this: 

Do not disconnect the throttle Position sensor from the Carburetor. 

• Remove the nut that holds the choke cable on the left side, and remove the cable from the bracket. 
• Remove the idle adjusting cable from its bracket. 
• Disconnect the gas line at the carburetor. 
• Completely loosen the throttle cables. 
• Unplug the two electric leads to the carburetor heater on the bottom of the carb. 
• Now loosen up the clamp that holds the carb in the rubber boot. 
• With a pull and wiggle motion the carb will come out of the boot. 
• Tilt it slightly to the left and remove the throttle cables. The cables align with a groove and slide out. 
• Keep a rag under the carb as gas will come out when you rotate it. 
• With the cables now off, rotate the carb to the right until it is upside down. 
• You have to loosen the brass carburetor heater to remove the bowl. Caution, when you tighten the heater back up, be very careful
  not to tighten it too much, they break quite easily. 
• You have to remove the four screws from the bowl to remove it. They are soft headed screws and strip quite easily. 
• I used a good set of needle nose vise grips to break the tightness of the screws. 
• Others have used a Dremel grinding tool with a cut-off wheel and cut a slot for a slotted screwdriver, or even cut the head off if worse comes to worse.
• Replace with Allen head screws.
• Remove the screws.
• When removing the bowl lift it straight up and be careful not to hit the floats.

• Remove the jet with a flat blade screw driver and put in your new main jet. 
• Replace the float bowl being careful not to hit the floats.
• Use the Barons allen head screws to secure the bowl. 
• Tighten the Heater back up....lightly. 
• Now you have to remove the brass plug from the Pilot mixture screw housing, if it has not been removed already. This is a tubular housing that rises from behind the bowl in the middle.  It should have a brass plug with a small hole in the middle. 
• The Baron gives you a drill bit to drill the hole larger. 
  Be careful not to drill into it too far and hit the screw below. 
• Use the metal screw the Baron gave you to screw into the brass plug.
• Use a set of vise grips to grab the screw and wiggle the plug out. 
• You will see a small flat head screw inside.
• With the carb upside down, tighten the screw clockwise until it lightly seats.
• Now back the screw out three and one half turns. 
• Now put the carb back into the boot, placing the throttle cables in place before you insert it into the rubber boot. 
• Tighten the clamp. 

Needle Replacement

• Now remove the two screws that hold the black plastic cap on the top.  The cap will rise because of the slide spring under it.
• Remove the cap and remove the long spring. The slide is connected to the rubber diaphragm.
  It just lifts straight out the top. 
• With the slide removed, look inside the slide. You'll see a plastic tab.  Grab the tab with a needle nose pliers and wiggle and pull straight outward.  Be careful as not to break the tab by pulling at an odd angle.  It will pop out as it is held in with only an O ring.  It should have a small spring connected to it. 
  Now the needle is ready to come out.
• Push the needle up and grab the end. When you have a hold of the needle, turn the slide upside down and finish removing it so the washer and spacer don't fall off the end. 
• Now take your new needle and place the clip on the indicated groove the Baron has recommended.  Always count down from the top.
• Place the white plastic spacer under the clip from the stock needle.
• Do not use the washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle.
• Put a washer on the top of the clip. Now insert it back into the slide and press the plastic tab with the spring back in.
• Make sure the rubber diaphragm is seated properly with the O ring towards the rear. 
• Put the slide spring back in and replace the cap and tighten the screws. 
• Connect the two electrical leads to the heater
• connect the gas line
• Put the choke cable back in the bracket, and the idle cable back in it's bracket
• Your finished with the carb.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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Comments (10)

Written by sonnyreyes715@yahoo.com, on 08-28-2009 13:30 anyone help please when we go rding on a higher elevation my bike start smokin and fuel mixture is getting richer i have rodstar 1600 pls help

Written by tkbridges, on 07-23-2009 20:30 Like Rev-It I also just installed a set of Vance and Hines Longshots and I am told I need to rejet. The bike runs fine, however I lost about 8 mpg and it sputters on deceleration. If I need to rejet what should I use?

Carb Problems Written by jahafd, on 06-26-2009 09:26 I was having problems with backfireing. when I pulled my carb off I found it full of junk from the vent pumping oil into the airfilter for a few years. I pulled the carb apart and cleaned it in carb cleaner and air. I even put in new jets! now the bike will only start and run under full choke. anyone have any ideas?

help--lost with carb coughs and stalling Written by frank rizzo, on 06-07-2009 02:27 bought an 06 --1700 yamaha a year and a half ago.I have a bad back so, It took me a long while to get the 1st 680 miles on to get to the first service. bike coughed and stalled since first day of purchase. dealer made a note in computer and said put miles on. my back feeling more like riding now so the bike is a real pain. the dealer picked it up, serviced it--replaced plugs drilled out the pms plug and adjusted it, rebuilt the carb and now it runs worse than when they first sold it. blamed it on bad gas, needs more miles and nothing is wrong with the bike. says them. It smells rich when idling. coughs on take off from a stop, stalls. I used to wrench for a living and can hit my backside with both hands. can any body tell me the stock jet sizes, and needle clip position for the slide--and the pms screw start point.Bike has stock breather and pipes and who knows what was done to the carb. . the sizes and settings would be a help, save me bucks on a service manual.I can donate savings to the roadstar site I have read and learned a lot of the posts. you all have been a big help. yamaha keeps sayin take it to the dealer. just wanna ride ride ride. help--please settings if you can.

cobra's cure for lean mixture Written by redrain, on 05-17-2009 08:49 Before making any mods to my 07 I was not happy at all with the way she would cough when giving her gas. I installed some slash cut Cobra slip on's and the back fireing was horrible! Last night I installed Cobra's jet kit using thier 175 main. What a difference. Mr. Tidy's Tech tips about re-jetting was wonderful!!! Thanks for the help!

Written by fernniesan, on 04-05-2009 19:25 Hope you can tell me what size of starter jet I can put my yamaha roadstar 2004 carb. Stock one was damage ( no middle hole, no gas passing thru). THANK YOU

6.0 %CO Written by grumpyroger, on 03-17-2009 15:03 I have a question, my buddies told me that I want to get my CO down to as close to 2.0% as I can. I bought a Gas Tester and after following the instructions I am setting around a 6.0%. We just installed a set of BuB Stubbies, and a Barons BAK. I am thinking I trust you guy's over my buddies, as well you how buddies are?  Any suggestions? I am open to any and all.....  P.S. No shops anywhere close to me are able to test my Exhaust Gas with an Analyzer.

Select jet size and carb setup Written by Yitbird, on 02-15-2009 04:27 Just bought a 2005 Roadstar 1700 with Vance Hines and Maxair that was set up for the mountains of Colorado. I live in Missouri. Need to know how to select jet size and reset carb for this area. Have extra jets given to me at time of purchase.    Thanks

rejet Written by bennick, on 09-10-2008 20:16 could anyone tell me what size dyno main jet to run with cobra slash downs and speedster air box on 07 road star? dyno jet says #175 with the stock air box and that does not work,so i have speedster air box on the way.bike runs great,except when u back out of the gas and re apply,bike misses.could someone please help?

Mikuni Site Written by Rayjay, on 09-10-2008 12:22 Hit the Mikuni website and look things over there. They have a lot of info (mostly about HDs) but an education on ignition, carbs, pipes and cams.  http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html

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