This is how to change your jet and needle, for an explanation of how your
Carburetor works. Stargazer has a great article by the Mucker at his site
The jetting is not terribly complicated if you remember this:
Do not disconnect the throttle Position sensor from the Carburetor.
- Remove the nut that holds the choke cable on the left side, and remove the cable from the bracket.
- Remove the idle adjusting cable from its bracket.
- Disconnect the gas line at the carburetor.
- Completely loosen the throttle cables.
- Unplug the two electric leads to the carburetor heater on the bottom of the carb.
- Now loosen up the clamp that holds the carb in the rubber boot.
- With a pull and wiggle motion the carb will come out of the boot.
- Tilt it slightly to the left and remove the throttle cables. The cables align with a groove and slide out.
- Keep a rag under the carb as gas will come out when you rotate it.
- With the cables now off, rotate the carb to the right until it is upside down.
- You have to loosen the brass carburetor heater to remove the bowl. Caution, when you tighten the heater back up, be very careful
not to tighten it too much, they break quite easily.
- You have to remove the four screws from the bowl to remove it. They are soft headed screws and strip quite easily.
- I used a good set of needle nose vise grips to break the tightness of the screws.
- Others have used a Dremel grinding tool with a cut-off wheel and cut a slot for a slotted screwdriver, or even cut the head off if worse comes to worse.
- Replace with Allen head screws.
- Remove the screws.
- When removing the bowl lift it straight up and be careful not to hit the floats.
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Under the bowl you'll see several jets.
The one you are replacing is the jet that sits on a brass spacer.
It should have the number 165 on it.
- Remove the jet with a flat blade screw driver and put in your new main jet.
- Replace the float bowl being careful not to hit the floats.
- Use the Barons allen head screws to secure the bowl.
- Tighten the Heater back up.....
- Now you have to remove the brass plug from the Pilot mixture screw housing, if it has not been removed already. This is a tubular housing that rises from behind the bowl in the middle. It should have a brass plug with a small hole in the middle.
- The Baron gives you a drill bit to drill the hole larger.
Be careful not to drill into it too far and hit the screw below.
- Use the metal screw the Baron gave you to screw into the brass plug.
- Use a set of vise grips to grab the screw and wiggle the plug out.
- You will see a small flat head screw inside.
- With the carb upside down, tighten the screw clockwise until it lightly seats.
- Now back the screw out three and one half turns.
- Now put the carb back into the boot, placing the throttle cables in place before you insert it into the rubber boot.
- Tighten the clamp.
Needle Replacement
- Now remove the two screws that hold the black plastic cap on the top. The cap will rise because of the slide spring under it.
- Remove the cap and remove the long spring. The slide is connected to the rubber diaphragm.
It just lifts straight out the top.
- With the slide removed, look inside the slide. You'll see a plastic tab. Grab the tab with a needle nose pliers and wiggle and pull straight outward. It will pop out as it is held in with only an O ring. It should have a small spring connected to it.
Now the needle is ready to come out.
- Push the needle up and grab the end. When you have a hold of the needle, turn the slide upside down and finish removing it so the washer and spacer don't fall off the end.
- Now take your new needle and place the clip on the indicated groove the Baron has recommended. Always count down from the top.
- Place the white plastic spacer under the clip from the stock needle.
- use the washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle.
- Put a washer on the top of the clip. Now insert it back into the slide and press the plastic tab with the spring back in.
- Make sure the rubber diaphragm is seated properly with the O ring towards the rear.
- Put the slide spring back in and replace the cap and tighten the screws.
- Connect the two electrical leads to the heater
- connect the gas line
- Put the choke cable back in the bracket, and the idle cable back in it's bracket
- Your finished with the carb.
Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below).
The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions
answered there. If you would like to leave feedback
for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use
the comment section at the bottom of this page.
Discuss this article on the forums. (34 posts)
DISCLAIMER:
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
always
be performed by a
professional mechanic.
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
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2007 stock roadstar carb
Written by rs1700, on 11-25-2011 11:16
I would like to know which jets and what size jets to change on my STOCK roadstar,everything is STOCK except the pilot AIR jet which I changed to allow less AIR to make it RICHER. this corrected 90 percent of the problem but now I need to know about the FUEL jets inside the carb(what ones and what size).Thankyou. |
Matching carb to pipes.
Written by bdriver, on 11-20-2011 23:31
Just purchased a 2001 Road Star. Near as I can tell its all stock except for Vance and Hines Long Shot pipes. I'm installing Smartpartz baffles to quiet them down. The carb looks like its never been touched. Do I need to rejet the carb with this combo? Which jets and what size would you recommend? Thanks for your help. |
Can do
Written by charlyme, on 05-29-2011 13:57
I rebuilt a Holy 4 blb on a 68 Chevy and had to buy a rebuilt
"Reprinted by permission from Mr. Tidy's Tech Tips"
I changed my air intake and out on my 05 Rd.* 1700 and needed to rejet carb. Had my concerns due to above but took my time and followed " tech above and had no problems bike is runing great
Thank you much |
Answers
Written by javelinahaj, on 11-08-2010 17:12
The questions have already been asked, where do I find the replies? |
Need ideas
Written by jones2365, on 10-27-2010 14:40
I bought an 04 1700 midnight edition Roadstar a couple of months ago. It came with Vance N Hines longshots, and Twin Velocity air intake. The bike would only start by the throttle, the choke seemed to just flood it. I went through the carb and found all jets were stock except one, the main Idel jet, stock is a .6 the jet that was in its place was a 165.??? I bought the jet kit that comes with the intake and instaled it. main jet-182.5 pilot jet-137.5 air bleed jet-1.3 the needle they sent and replaced the main idel jet back to stock. The bike runs real good but the choke still doesnt work and the PMS screw doesnt seem to change the way it runs. Very confused now...any Ideas?? |
Written by sonnyreyes715@yahoo.com, on 08-28-2009 14:30
anyone help please when we go rding on a higher elevation my bike start smokin and fuel mixture is getting richer i have rodstar 1600 pls help |
Written by tkbridges, on 07-23-2009 21:30
Like Rev-It I also just installed a set of Vance and Hines Longshots and I am told I need to rejet. The bike runs fine, however I lost about 8 mpg and it sputters on deceleration. If I need to rejet what should I use? |
Carb Problems
Written by jahafd, on 06-26-2009 10:26
I was having problems with backfireing. when I pulled my carb off I found it full of junk from the vent pumping oil into the airfilter for a few years. I pulled the carb apart and cleaned it in carb cleaner and air. I even put in new jets! now the bike will only start and run under full choke. anyone have any ideas? |
help--lost with carb coughs and stalling
Written by frank rizzo, on 06-07-2009 03:27
bought an 06 --1700 yamaha a year and a half ago.I have a bad back so, It took me a long while to get the 1st 680 miles on to get to the first service. bike coughed and stalled since first day of purchase. dealer made a note in computer and said put miles on. my back feeling more like riding now so the bike is a real pain. the dealer picked it up, serviced it--replaced plugs drilled out the pms plug and adjusted it, rebuilt the carb and now it runs worse than when they first sold it. blamed it on bad gas, needs more miles and nothing is wrong with the bike. says them. It smells rich when idling. coughs on take off from a stop, stalls. I used to wrench for a living and can hit my backside with both hands. can any body tell me the stock jet sizes, and needle clip position for the slide--and the pms screw start point.Bike has stock breather and pipes and who knows what was done to the carb. . the sizes and settings would be a help, save me bucks on a service manual.I can donate savings to the roadstar site I have read and learned a lot of the posts. you all have been a big help. yamaha keeps sayin take it to the dealer. just wanna ride ride ride. help--please settings if you can.  |
cobra's cure for lean mixture
Written by redrain, on 05-17-2009 09:49
Before making any mods to my 07 I was not happy at all with the way she would cough when giving her gas. I installed some slash cut Cobra slip on's and the back fireing was horrible! Last night I installed Cobra's jet kit using thier 175 main. What a difference. Mr. Tidy's Tech tips about re-jetting was wonderful!!! Thanks for the help!  |
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