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Reprinted by Permission from FatBike As many of you know, there are several different methods used to change the oil in the Road Star. The method that I prefer was actually introduced by Dave M (Thor).
It works well and doesn't involve starting the engine during the refilling process.
Place the bike on a sturdy stand before you begin. You want the bike level and it is too easy to knock it over if it is just on the side stand.
The procedure is outlined below.
1) Remove the seat. Locate the dipstick cover. Remove the dipstick from the tank.
2) Place drain pans under both the crankcase drain plug and the oil tank drain plug.
3) Remove both of the drain plugs using a 17mm “Monkey Wrench” on the crankcase drain plug and a 17mm socket with a 6” extension on the oil tank drain plug. Remember that the distance between the drain plug and the crankcase housing is very tight. Most people have the best luck with a “Craftsman” combination wrench, as the profile of the closed end is thin enough to fit into tight spaces. Stubby wrenches, although too short to give you any leverage are generally easier to use as the clearance between the bike and the floor is also tight. Your best bet is to break loose the drain plug with a standard length wrench and complete the process with the stubby wrench.
4) Remove the oil filter with a cap-style filter wrench.
Give the oil plenty of time to drain. 10 to 15 minutes should be sufficient. Reinstall the drain plugs and the new filter.
Hand-tighten (as tight as you can, by hand...) the filter and torque the drain plugs to ~35 ft/lbs.
Next, remove the hex-key plug, located behind the rear cylinder. Refill the crankcase with 3.2 US qt of oil directly. Add the remainder, approximately 2.1 US qt (*) into the oil tank (where you removed the dipstick). Replace the hex key plug. Tighten to approximately 10 ft/lbs.
Start the bike and let it run for a few minutes, checking for leaks. Shut the bike off and check the oil. It should be at the top of the hash marks.
Assuming that you didn't find any leaks, You are finished! (*) Update: Dave has informed me that the amount above is for a totally dry bike. Subtract 8/10ths for a standard oil change! 
Remove the dipstick. This is where you fill the oil tank as well... 
...The crankcase drain... 
The oil tank drain. Found almost directly under the dipstick... 
Hand tightening the filter will usually do. Do not over-tighten! 
Refill the crankcase through the opening found just behind the rear cylinder
Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below).
The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions
answered there. If you would like to leave feedback
for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use
the comment section at the bottom of this page.
Discuss this article on the forums. (12 posts)
DISCLAIMER:
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
always
be performed by a
professional mechanic.
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
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Questions about oil change.
Written by avazquez4, on 11-02-2008 16:07
1st oil change
I changed the oil on my 2000 Road Star 1600. I was wondering if i really have to add the oil to the crankcase directly? I only added it to the dipstick tube and it took almost 4 qts. The Clymer manual says that it uses 5.3 qts of oil. Is that a combined measurement for both the dipstick tube and the crankcase?
Thanks!
Albert |
who's & whats
Written by The Gardener, on 09-29-2008 02:48
i'm running lucas 20w50Motorcycle oil and the WIX filter.
~5Kmi and it's still pretty clean and still half way up the XXX line (range).
i been doing the run while filter loose to get er all out so i appreciate the pictures cause i couldnt find the rez drain plug!
lots of mods, not quite finished yet so i'll leave out till i find where to put them in my sig!
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Oil Filter
Written by hotelfox, on 07-30-2008 10:28
I use a K&N filter, they have a wrench fitting on the end to help get it off. However, yes you should dip your finger in the oil and run it around the seal of the new filter before installing it on the bike. Just a little to wet the entire O-ring. |
1st oil change
Written by rdem1962, on 05-20-2008 14:59
I changed the oil oin my 2005 Road Star Silverado 1700. I was wondering if i really have to add the oil to the crankcase directly? I only added it to the dipstick tube and it took 4 qts. |
Oil level
Written by fastjohnny, on 09-15-2007 10:00
I found out the hard way that you don't want the oil level at the top of the hash marks. Half way between full & add is optimal for my "05 Roadstar. Any more and it sucks oil up thru the crankcase vent into the carb thus fouling plugs and carboning up the valves.
I wound up re-routing the crankcase vent hose (be sure to plug the hole where it used to connect to the air box) to the ground. |
Written by bikeman, on 02-23-2007 08:18
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Written by Cougar, on 09-09-2006 05:14
Should a bead of oil be applied to the filter before installing and in the case such as mine where I added a chrome cover they should be installed at the same time because of the amount of space. I am asking......not telling as i have not changed my oil yet because this bike is new to me. Thanks....Coug |
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