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Reprinted by Permission from Mr Tidy's Tech Tips
| The addition of floorboard extensions has been a pretty common mod that quite a few people have done over the last several years. It's a matter of time, tools, price and preference of how you go about adding this nice modification.
I've included 2 different patterns offered by forum members, both are functionally working pattern that are easily made with few tools. About the subject of JPEG Images, even though you draw out a perfect to scale drawing, scan it, and save it as a jpg file extension, it does not mean that when you open it in your own graphics program XYZ , means that when you print it out, that, it will be a exact scale image due to differences in the way different programs handle the same file. Due to this I'm adding dimensions to the drawings.
Another option to making your own brackets are to purchase them from 4KRZN's Motorcycle Enhancements. They are made of Stainless Steel and polished to a great finish. I was recently offered a good deal by John for a set of these but due to not wanting to spend money to customize my bike any further, I declined the offer, (thanks John), but if you would rather purchase, then buy them. John's site link is on my web page, look for "Motorcycle Enhancements".
Before you look, notice that Dave's design moves the boards forward 3 1/4" and upward at a 15 degree tilt.
Hezbak's design moves the boards forward 3" and the boards upward at a 15 degree tilt.
So it is safe to say a longer legged person would prefer the Zoomer design where as a shorter legged person might prefer the Hezbak.
You have the freedom to edit either design to a format that will suit your own comfort but wanted to express this thought to you before you decided which one to attempt to produce. |
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Zoomer's Plan Dave McDougall (Note: floorboards mount in the two left most holes of the drawing, the two right most holes mount on the frame of the bike.)
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These floorboard extensions are simple to make as long as you have a drill and something to cut the steel with. All you need is 2 pcs. of steel flat bar that is 3/8" thick, 1-1/2" wide and 6" long. I used a mini grinder with a cutoff wheel but I guess you could use a hacksaw and a file. You could also just leave the piece with square edges, it probably wouldn't make much difference. Prime them up and paint them black and they will look great.
When installing the extensions, you can reuse the bolts that hold on the floorboards. If you change them, you need 10mm bolts about 1" to 1-1/2" long and a 1.25 thread pitch. For remounting the boards to the extensions you can use 1/2" bolts. Make sure you use Locktite so they don't rattle loose.
On the brake side of the bike you will have to remove the brake line from the clips along the frame so you will have enough slack to move the board forward. I just tie wrapped it back to the frame in a couple of places.
Adjustments to the pedal height can be done with the rod adjustment on the pedal.
On the shifter side of the bike you will have to remove the arm off the shifter and move it 2 splines counter-clockwise. When complete you can fine tune the length to your preference using the adjustment on the shifter rod.
That's it, and I think that you'll enjoy the relaxed riding position. Good Luck, Dave McDougall (Zoomer) |
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Hezbak's Plan (Note: floorboards mount in the two left most holes of the drawing, the two right most holes mount on the frame of the bike.)
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| I just moved my floorboards forward 3 inches for $24. Bought 2 pieces of 3/8 steel from a local distributor for $20. Size, 1 and 1/4" times 5 and 1/2".
Drilled four 7/16" holes, filed edges and corners, and painted them with primer then gloss black. They work great. Had to adjust the left side shifter assembly by turning the front arm a couple of degrees. On the right side, had to unhook all of the brake line fasteners and re-tie with cable straps.
The new plates bolted straight to the frame where the floorboard mounts were. Used the same bolts with blue Locktite.
Bought new 10MM bolts, lock washers and nuts for the front holes and also used blue Locktite. Hardware cost $4. Very cool, very effective and very cheap. Thought you might want to know and/or try.
Again, this is 3/8" steel. Local distributor cut it to size. I do not know if it would work with engine guards. I do not have photos but will create and post a drawing.
I did drill the front holes with a slight offset to increase the angle of the board.
A couple more points. I found the distributor above in the yellow pages under steel.
They actually shear (not saw) the plates to size. Very clean and precise.
They offered to drill the holes for a fee. I opted to invest in a cobalt drill bit and do them myself. I used the floorboard bracket to mark the holes.
Again, the 7/16" hole worked well for 10MM bolts. On one of the four sets of holes I had to file ever so slightly with a round file to fit. All in all, it was quite easy.
If you need bolts the stock ones (plate to frame) are 10mm x 30mm. The new ones (floorboard to plate) are 10mm x 40 mm with lock washer and nut. I would definitely use locktite once everything is ready to button up.
The plates (and hardware) can be primed and painted or even chromed.
They are extremely heavy duty and do not flex. Good Luck.
HEZBAK
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Floorboard Forward Brackets - Jim Written by B.A.StarRider, on 11-08-2008 17:50 I initially made both sets of brackets that were posted on the Clinic. Each of these utilized the additional 15 degree slope. I found that they made it uncomfortable for me to apply my rear brake since I had to lift my entire foot to apply it. This was due to the pedal having to be adjusted higher to allow for the added 15 degree slope, and my ankle joints just aren’t that flexible. I decided to make another bracket that would be more comfortable for me to use, since I also had the feeling that my feet were wanting to slip off the back of the floorboards with the added 15 degree slope. My brackets move the floorboards forward 2 ¾”, and raise the plane of the floorboards by 1”, while maintaining the same angle of the stock floorboards. They allow the brake to be applied comfortably without having to readjust the height of the brake pedal. The rear brake line still needs to be taken out of its little keepers and restrapped elsewhere to keep it off the exhaust pipe. The brake line connection to the master cylinder may have to be rotated slightly inboard so there would be no interference with crash bars if you have them. The shift linkage will have to be rotated a couple of teeth to accommodate the new position of the shift pedal. I found the new position of my floorboards to be so comfortable that I did away with my highway pegs that had been on my crash bars. I can now stretch out and reposition my feet comfortably, and still use my rear brake without feeling like I’m in a bind. The only thing I miss is the early warning my floorboards sounded out when leaning into a sharp turn, since they are located a little higher now. I have learned to adapt to that, but it’s hard to adapt to discomfort when you spend any appreciable time in the saddle on the road. Hope this helped. Jim Owens—Glen Saint Mary, Florida 11-6-2008 |
floorboard relo Written by Razorstar, on 08-21-2008 19:44 My first attempt to change anything other than drilling pipes....Anyone done the extensions on an 06 Roadie? The brake line sure looks tight to me. Any help appreciated. Thanks, John |
Did it on an '07 Roadstar Silverado Written by dryriver, on 08-06-2007 17:18 Did this mod today on my "07 roadie. Used the Hezback's plans and measurements and it looks and feels great. The only problem was the brake line to the rear wheel on the pedal side. When the mod plate and floorboard are re-installed, the brake line is pretty tight. It is originally clamped to the bottom outside of the frame, and now it has to lay on top of the frame. By loosening the bolt that the line feeds into on the master cylinder, I was able to move it a little sideways and make it work but the line towards the front lays between the frame and the engine. Will heat be a problem for this line? Is it possible to buy longer lines and where would I get them? Great mod and very comfortable. |
FLOORBOARDS Written by Rockpile, on 06-01-2007 13:12 DID THIS 2 YEARS AGO. I LIKE IT |
Written by LROD, on 11-26-2006 21:13 06 Roadstar OEM brake line too short to accept this mod. Suggestions? |
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