EDITORS NOTE: Barry just started making a very cool gas cap option for the Road Star. If you would like to see it, please visit his website. It can be found on our "Links of Interest" page, or by clicking here. To email Barry, click on his name at the bottom of this article. -Thanks Barry! -GRAM
The placement of the rear brake pedal has been the topic of several conversations. It is located above the floorboard and consumes much of the space needed for a comfortable foot position. Some have made an elongated brake pedal to position the pedal at the front of the floorboards. These pedals cost upwards of $100.
I have a solution here for less than $5 plus labor. (or you can order one from me already cut and black powder coated for $20 with shipping included).
The solution is to move the entire rear brake pedal and master cylinder forward in relationship to the floorboard. This solution may not work on all set ups, depending on Engine Guards and etc.
Let me show you what the finished brake pedal position will be:
This is the position that many strive to place their rear brake pedal.
To achieve this position I created a bracket to mount the rear brake pedal and cylinder mechanism. The bracket is as simple as this:
It is nothing more than a flat piece of cold rolled flat steel purchased at almost any Hardware or Home Improvement Store.
STEP #1 - First you will have to remove the nuts from the brake mounting and tie it out of the way while you work on the floorboard bracket and create the new bracket.
STEP #2 – Second remove the floorboard bracket and remove the floorboard from the bracket to make it easier to work with.
STEP #3 – This step may not be necessary but the fitment is up to you. I sanded down the edges of the bracket to be even with the flat of the floorboard bracket.
STEP #4 – Cut the new bracket to 4” long the three holes should be 1 9/16” apart. The center of the first and third holes should be equal from each edge. Measure the width of the new bracket and divide it in half and scribe a line down the middle. You can see the line on the New Bracket above in figure #1. Use this line to center your holes.
STEP #5 – After the holes are drilled and bracket is cut, make a dry fit on the floorboard mounting bracket. Use a temporary bolt to hold the bracket on and see if the other hole lines up with the floorboard bracket.
STEP #6 – I then loosely mounted on the bike to see if the brake line would extend far enough and nothing else would have problems mounting.
STEP #6 cont. – Further dry fitment is done to ensure that brake pedal work freely and all bolts line up properly.
FIG #6 -More fitting checks
STEP #7 – When satisfied with the fitting, disassemble and paint or powder coat the parts as need to protect from rusting.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at Barry@Boyer.net
Barry “Glockerdude” Boyer
Concord, NC 28027
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This information and procedure is provided
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SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
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If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
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Quote this article on your site | Views: 21181
|Written by megamike57, on 06-23-2012 16:30 |
I did the MOD today because the brake linkage was almost touching the the front pipe. Also, what a difference 1 9/16 inches makes in riding comfort. Now I dont have to roll my foot up and around to hit the pedal. Thanks Glocker Dude.
|oops, no infinite adjustment|
Written by brianmac, on 10-17-2011 10:36
oops, after a while i put on a barons engine guard, cause i think it looks best, and i tried to slide the brake a little rearward, but since the original forward bolt hole on the floorboard MOUNT is not slotted, it does not slide forward and rearward as i thought(DUH).
just so u know, the barons engine guard are a tight fit if u use the forward brake pedal,but it works.
ps. used kury rotational hiway pegs, turned in , nice highway setup, u can put your heel on stock floorboard, and toe on kury hiway peg/board, or all on hiway peg, or on top of baron bar, 3 alternate foot positions, or as the salesman say AFP's, talk about a couch.
|roadstar brake pedal reposition|
Written by brianmac, on 05-31-2011 10:18
what a great idea he had, BUT I MADE HIS EVEN BETTER. i had a piece of metal as he described, from a boat trailer(packrat). rather than drilling holes, it was slotted and allowed for infinite adjustment forward and backward. my problem was so bad, it was causing foot issues whenever i rode the yamaha(daytona bike week- this year only 1000 miles). you kind a have to roll your foot in a weird way to use the stock pedal location, the taller u are, the worse, and if u have sid scuch's backrest set, it adds to the problem. (lemmme just say here i have a Mstang pad on sid scuch's backrest bracket-my brother says it the finest couch he ever rode, i luv it too). both great add ons.
|Written by 1700cc, on 05-27-2011 20:06 |
What a great mod! Won't this stretch the rear brake-line? Any issues there?
Written by Starkruzen, on 01-11-2011 19:54
Do you still offer to sell this mod? Contact me at email@example.com.
|Changing Position of the Rear Brake Peda|
Written by DavidP1965, on 08-20-2010 14:45
Did it and WOW now the toes of my boots are looking good again.
|Gas cap option|
Written by djroger, on 01-03-2009 16:45
The link is not working, maybe because it's from 2004. I was just curious to see your article about the gas cap option.
|Written by greyphart, on 05-07-2008 18:59 |
Did this mod on a whim today mostly because the Cobra bars changed the position of my brake setup. Works beautiful. Kicks it out with plenty of clearance and still functions fine. Actually it's better because my size 13's have room on the floorboard now. Thanks Barry!
|Written by Hoodlum, on 02-19-2007 06:42 |
I Like your idea, will this have any effect on the highway bar
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