EDITORS NOTE:  Barry just started making a very cool gas cap option for the Road Star.  If you would like to see it, please visit his website.  It can be found on our "Links of Interest" page, or by clicking here.  To email Barry, click on his name at the bottom of this article.  -Thanks Barry! -GRAM

The placement of the rear brake pedal has been the topic of several conversations.  It is located above the floorboard and consumes much of the space needed for a comfortable foot position.  Some have made an elongated brake pedal to position the pedal at the front of the floorboards.  These pedals cost upwards of $100.

I have a solution here for less than $5 plus labor. (or you can order one from me already cut and black powder coated for $20 with shipping included).

The solution is to move the entire rear brake pedal and master cylinder forward in relationship to the floorboard.  This solution may not work on all set ups, depending on Engine Guards and etc.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

• 3/16” X 1.25 flat steel

• #8 X 1.25 bolt and nut

• black spray paint (or powder coating)

• 11/32” drill bit and drill motor or drill press

Let me show you what the finished brake pedal position will be:

 This is the position that many strive to place their rear brake pedal. 

To achieve this position I created a bracket to mount the rear brake pedal and cylinder mechanism.  The bracket is as simple as this:

FIG #1

It is nothing more than a flat piece of cold rolled flat steel purchased at almost any Hardware or Home Improvement Store.

STEP #1 - First you will have to remove the nuts from the brake mounting and tie it out of the way while you work on the floorboard bracket and create the new bracket. 

STEP #2 – Second remove the floorboard bracket and remove the floorboard from the bracket to make it easier to work with. 

FIG #2

STEP #3 – This step may not be necessary but the fitment is up to you.  I sanded down the edges of the bracket to be even with the flat of the floorboard bracket. 

STEP #4 – Cut the new bracket to 4” long the three holes should be 1 9/16” apart.  The center of the first and third holes should be equal from each edge.   Measure the width of the new bracket and divide it in half and scribe a line down the middle.  You can see the line on the New Bracket above in figure #1.  Use this line to center your holes. 

STEP #5 – After the holes are drilled and bracket is cut, make a dry fit on the floorboard mounting bracket.  Use a temporary bolt to hold the bracket on and see if the other hole lines up with the floorboard bracket.

STEP #6 – I then loosely mounted on the bike to see if the brake line would extend far enough and nothing else would have problems mounting.

STEP #6 cont. – Further dry fitment is done to ensure that brake pedal work freely and all bolts line up properly.

FIG #5

FIG #6 -More fitting checks

STEP #7 – When satisfied with the fitting, disassemble and paint or powder coat the parts as need to protect from rusting. 

FIG #7

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at Barry@Boyer.net

Barry “Glockerdude” Boyer

Concord, NC 28027

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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