Front Master Cylinder Ratio Chart
Reprinted by Permission from VintageBrake.com
Front Master Cylinder Ratio Chart
While attending Vintage Days West, and thoroughly enjoying it, I
was reminded that many of the people I had occasion to talk to, lacked an
understanding of the importance of master cylinder to wheel cylinder ratios.
This critical ratio is of paramount importance in determining "feel". It has
been my experience that there is a "sweet spot" in the range. I like ratios in
the 27:1 range-2 finger power brakes, feeling some line and/or caliper flex.
23:1 is at the other end of the spectrum-firm. Ratios lower than 20:1 can result
a feel so "wooden" as to have a toggle switch effect: nothing happens until the
wheel locks. Disc and wheel diameters must be taken into consideration. A 10
inch disc working against an 19" wheel just doesn't have the leverage ratio that
a 13 inch disc working a 17" wheel does. The hand lever ratio counts too:
witness the adjustable master cylinders from Lockheed and Brembo.
in point: I had a complaint from a racer about Ferodo CP901- a compound renown
for its great feel. His comment was that they worked poorly until the wheel
locked. He had been thrown on the ground twice. Intrigued, I inquired as to the
application. "Yamaha RD350" he replied. A red flag went up. CP901 was not
available for the 48mm Yamaha caliper. I asked "How that could that be?" He had
up-graded his braking system with the premier 41mm Lockheed unit, but was
unaware that a master cylinder change was in order. A stock RD 350 has an
already marginal ratio of 23.5 :1, and with Lockheed, became an unhealthy 17.2
:1. The "sweet spot" formula said a change to a 12mm master cylinder was in
order, just to maintain the previous ratio, and my recommendation would have
been an 11mm. He was able to switch to a 1/2" , and although not ideal, he was
keeping the rubber side down.
For 2 piston opposed calipers, I like ratios in the 27:1 range, feeling some
line and caliper flex. For a firmer lever, use 23:1. I think ratios lower than
23:1 produce a lever feel so "wooden" as to have little, if any feel.
Combine "low" leverage ratios with sticky pads, and unpredictable lockup is
the result. The high effort required at the lever also results in undesired
input to the bars. 98% of my customers love the 27:1 ratio feel. However, there
are a few racers, and very good ones I might add, that are uncomfortable with a
slightly mushy lever. In 2004, 2 hotly-contested classes at Vintage Daytona were
won by customers using 20:1 ratios. Top level modern racers will typically have
a range of master cylinders, bled and ready to change on hand, depending on
track conditions, pad compound, and rotor diameter and material. This truly is a
rider preference item. Single piston calipers are much happier in the 14:1 to
12:1 range. Disc and wheel diameters, as well as hand lever ratios, must be
Michael "Mercury" Morse
Front Master Cylinder to Wheel Cylinder
Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below).
The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions
answered there. If you would like to leave feedback
for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use
the comment section at the bottom of this page.
Discuss this article on the forums. (0 posts)
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
be performed by a
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
Quote this article on your site | Views: 26778
Written by ridinsober96, on 11-19-2015 20:17
5 years ago when I put the stainless braided lines in the bike, front and back, I noticed the fronts are much more difficult to pull.. don't usually worry about it when Im riding. but after looking at the chart. which I was hoping someone would help me with. leads me to believe I should have changed the MC.. I have the stocker on their now, the MC and the brakes and banjo bolts.. any help you could supply would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.. ride safe out there.
|PM 6 Piston Front caliper|
Written by BOBJO, on 10-11-2015 03:47
Just installed a single, PM 6 piston front calliper on left side only . Using stock RS master cylinder and custom steel braided brake line . Brake lever is extremely hard when applying brake, brake does work but not very well . Anyone using same set up and had the same problem ?
|front brake noise|
Written by huskerbob, on 01-09-2009 18:19
is their anything you can do about the criket noise that lingers after you use the front brakes ?
Written by 56star, on 11-18-2008 05:03
The first time I had to hit the brakes extremely hard felt the rubber peel off,service manager said that I cupped the tire,I could believe that.New tire,3000 miles same thing.Any thing suggested?
Only registered users can write comments.
Please login or register.
Powered by AkoComment Tweaked Special Edition v.1.4.6
AkoComment © Copyright 2004 by Arthur Konze - www.mamboportal.com
All right reserved