These are photos of a bike before it was lowered... 
Click on a photo to enlarge. (Bike courtesy of Father Dave.)
1st you should remove the rear wheel. Some have removed the relay arm without doing this but you will probably want to remove the wheel for a couple of reasons. You will need to size up the relay arm in it's new position a couple of times while you are grinding the arm and this is much easier if you have easy access to the area. Also you will now know how to remove the wheel when it comes to other service that you may do (New tires, bearing lubrication, belt maintenance etc...).
  Click on a photo to enlarge.
Once you have the ABS Plastic Suspension guard removed you will see the relay arm connected to the shock, stationary arms and swing-arm.
 Click on photo to enlarge.
Remove the top nut/bolt first, then the bottom, removing the middle nut/bolt last. The middle bolt is longer than the others and requires a little manipulation to get it out.
Once you have the relay arm out   Click on a photo to enlarge.
you will see that what is necessary is to turn the relay arm around so that the rear of the relay arm is in the front, thereby making the offset negative, rather than positive. The only problem is that the relay arm is designed to clear the shock only when installed the way that it came out. This is why grinding the arm is necessary. You will be grinding the area that was once opposite the shock until, upon installing the relay arm in it's new position, all of the bolt holes line up.
 The area that has been reshaped will look like this...  Click on a photo to enlarge.
You will be checking the relay arm alignment from time-to-time to see how the piece lines up. Once all of the bolts can be successfully reinstalled, you can reassemble the components.
The end result is a lower bike that now looks much more proportioned as well as more aggressive, wider and with a rear fender that is stuffed full of tire!
   
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DISCLAIMER:
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
always
be performed by a
professional mechanic.
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
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Flip it - Yea buddy
Written by DavidP1965, on 08-20-2010 13:38
OK I took the article and reviewed it over and over again and again… I finally got the nerve so I did it I followed the directions “not” I just looked at the pictures and went from there... It lowered the bike 2 – 2 ˝” and WOW what a difference it has made for me. I am 5’6” 29” inseam and with the Road star Midnight Silverado having such a fat seat I still stepped on my toes at the stop sign… Long story short Thank you all it has made me a very happy rider… |
What the
Written by tinker, on 04-20-2010 16:46
In considering the lowering, I have been wondering whether it is possible to swap top for bottom rather than front for rear. Haven't done anything, and the raising of my center is of more import to me, as the floorboards scraping in corners is an irritation. |
Pump the brakes
Written by xstar22, on 04-05-2010 16:42
I second the comment on pumping the brakes after this mod. I know it sounds like common sense but in my excitement to road test I took off and cruised right through the first stop sign I came to. Very scary, no traffic luckily. |
The Flip Success
Written by ADKMidnightRider, on 03-16-2010 22:02
I just bought this 07 Midnight and this is my 1st mod. Great idea! Free drop! I lost 2 1/8". I did grind more away only to find that if I picked up the swing arm a little the bolts would have lined up the 1st time. I took my time with it taking pictures along the way so plan on an afternoon to do this. I am not sure if it is assumed but I supported the bike frame on jack stands to give me full movement of the swing arm. Have someone help hold the bike while your jacking until it is set back down on the stands. One last safety tip always pump the brakes back up to get the pads against the disk. I had a scare on my first launch in front of the house. |
Simple project, great result
Written by xstar22, on 02-06-2010 22:49
Thought I would give this a go. Took about two hours and the result is a bike that looks and rides much better. No belt squeal on my 2000. |
Baron adjustable rear lowering kit
Written by martyman, on 01-10-2010 13:31
I have bought a set to lower my back end. Does anyone have a set of these.And how are they. How much do you have to turn them to lower it to a inch and a half.and how long does it take to instal them. |
Flip it
Written by martyman, on 01-04-2010 13:35
how much lower is the bike and how much lower is the back fender when you Flip the relay arm |
Flip it
Written by martyman, on 01-04-2010 13:33
how much lower is the bike and how much lower is the back fender when you Flip the relay arm |
The Flip: Lower your Roadstar the Fatbik
Written by martyman, on 01-04-2010 06:32
does this work on a 2003 roadstar and do you have to touch the upper part where the fender bolts on.Also will it affect the bolting on the seat |
Written by GypsyNH, on 09-27-2009 07:34
I had installed Progressive Spring and lowering dogbones (Spring Slam from PCS), had a LOT of trouble with bottoming out and dragging when cornering. So, RAIDER and I yesterday put my stock dogbones back on and did the Flip 'n' Grind on my '03 keeping the Progressive Spring in it. Now his '07 has the lowering dogbones on it. The result: we are both riding lower, but not dragging on the corners, and smiling! |
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