The stock Road Star ignition module does an adequate job of controlling the sparkplug timing and RPM limitations, as long as you're running a reasonably stock engine, stock carburetor--and you don't mind being limited to 4,250 rpm for 1600 series engines, or 4,750 rpm for 1700 series engines. But if you want to install an aftermarket carb, increase the rev limit, add high compression pistons, or go big-bore, you'll need to replace that little black box with a Dyna 3000 or SpeedStar, direct replacement, ignition module.

Parts List:

• Dyna 3000 or SpeedStar ignition module

If you intend to cut an access hole in the battery box for the Dyna 3000 dip-switches, the following optional parts are for making a protective insert for the dip-switches:

• Small foam brush
• Plastic shopping bag

Tools:

• 5mm hex (Allen) wrench, for removing the bike's side-cover
• Metric socket wrench set (nothing fancy)
• Large Phillips (X) screwdriver or small socket wrench, to remove the battery terminals
• Slotted (--) screwdriver and needle-nose pliers, to reinstall the battery's rubber retaining straps

If you intend to cut an access hole in the battery box for the Dyna 3000 dip-switches, the following tools will be needed:

• Electric drill, Dremel or similar tool
• High-speed drill bits or Dremel bits
• Hand file

Removing the Stock Ignition Module

Remove the left side cover and the rider's seat.

Disconnect the postive (left side) battery cable.

Now remove the small bolt from the left-side, black plastic, wiring tray. The bolt is near the rear of the side-cover area. Next remove the retaining nut from the right side of the fuse box. Then pull the fuse box free of its mounting stud and its left-side tab/slot.

The wiring tray and wire bundles are now free enough to pull out of the way to remove the ignition module. But before you do: review, draw, or photograph the wiring positions in, and around, the wiring tray area. (See photo, above).

Now you can pull the tray and wiring harnesses free from the confines of the side-cover area--making enough room to access the front side of the battery box. Wriggle the positive (left-side) battery cable down and out of the battery box as you do this.

Next, locate the three, square-ish wiring connectors, arranged vertically, just in front of the battery box. In the photo above, my finger is on the lowest plug, and the other two have already been disconnected. The ignition module is behind these connectors-plugs.

Remove each connector-plug by reaching in and pressing in the release-tab along the left side of each plug. Simultaneously wiggle the plug off with the other hand. Note: Be careful not to over stress any wires or plugs. Tip: You can work stubborn plugs free by gently prying with a slotted screwdriver at the connector base.

The ignition module is now free to remove, though a rubber strap and two holding-tabs still keep it in place. Pull the module out toward the left side of the bike--moving any wiring out of the way. Note: work slowly so as to be careful of over stressing wires.

Once the stock ignition module is out, set it aside.

Cutting a Dip Switch Access Hole

Note: The following steps, refer to cutting a dip-switch access-hole in the battery box. They only apply if you think you might want to change your Dyna 3000 dip-switch settings in the future, and you'd prefer to remove the battery to make your changes rather than pull the ignition module out of the bike, through the steps shown above.

Disconnect the negative (right side) battery cable.

Remove the rubber hold-down strap from the top of the battery.

Remove the battery.

Remove the two, small bolts and spacer-washers from the battery box side-tabs.

Next begin working the battery box up and out:

• There are 3 little tabs at the rear of the box to free.
• There are two large tabs at the rear, but they only show themselves as the box comes up.
• Be careful to gently move any snagged wires out of the way.
• Take your time to avoid over-stressing any wires.

Once the box is out, note the attachment of the rubber strap at the front of the box. Then remove it.

Next, mark the box for cutting the dip-switch access hole. I cut mine according to the diagram shown above.

Now use a Dremel, drill, or any other appropriate cutting tool to cut and smooth a rectangular hole through the front side of the battery box. I finished mine with a flat file, to square the corners and smooth any rough lines and edges.

Once the hole has been cut, test-fit the Dyna 3000 into its holding tabs in the battery box. Orient the unit so that the dip-switches become hidden by the front edge of the battery box, and the connector sockets are pointed to the right--when viewed from the front of the battery box.

Now look from inside the battery box to be sure your access hole makes the dip-switches visible and accessible. If the dip-switches are not visible, be sure the Dyna is positioned all the way against its final stop, furthest to the left--when viewed from the front of battery box. If you can see that the Dyna is squarely seated against its final stop, and the connector sockets are oriented correctly--yet no dip-switches can be seen through the access hole you cut--you may have cut the hole in the wrong place.

Once your test-fit is satisfactory, remove the Dyna 3000, and set it aside for now.

Put the rubber strap back on the front of the battery box. Then reinstall the battery box into its mounting hole. Be careful of the large wiring bundle at the rear of the battery box mounting-area. It must be tucked into the 'tunnel' at the rear of the battery box.

As you work the battery box down, push the 2 large tabs--located along the rear-- down into the mounting hole. And then push the 3 little tabs--also at the rear--in to their little holes as you finish lowering the box in to position.

Be sure the large wiring bundle at the rear of the battery box mounting-area is tucked under the 'tunnel' along the rear of the battery box. Also be sure the negative (right side) battery terminal is visible.

Now secure the battery box by installing the two spacers/washers and two bolts into the bolt holes at the left and right sides of the battery box, and tighten. The battery box should be flush and square. If not, do not force it; look for a cause and fix it, otherwise you could short a wire or break some plastic.

Installing the Dyna 3000

If you have not already done so, set your dip-switches according to your needs. Refer to the Dyna 3000 Users guide, or refer to the Dyna 3000 Switch Settings article. It can be found in the same area of this website as you found this article.

Note: A switch is considered "ON" if it is moved toward the switch numbers embossed above the switch-bank -- in other words, away from the connector plugs, toward your bike's right side.

Now install the Dyna ignition module in the same place where the stock one was removed. Orient the unit so that the dip-switches become hidden by the front edge of the battery box, and the connector sockets are pointed to the left side of the bike. Also be sure to wiggle the unit all the way back, so that it has seated fully against its 'back stops'.

At this point, if you have cut an access window in the battery box, look again through your new 'access window' from inside the battery box. You should be able to see the complete dip-switch area of the Dyna. If not, one of four things is wrong:

1. You might not have the unit fully seated against its furthest 'back stop'. You must look to see that it has not hung up on the rubber strap or an intermediate tab stop. It takes a firm hand and some wiggling to get the unit fully seated. However, be careful not to use excessive force that could break a mounting tab or crack the Dyna's casing.
2. You may have oriented the unit wrong. It must be removed, reoriented, and reinstalled with the dip-switches pointing toward the rear of the bike, and the connector sockets pointing to the bike's left-side.
3. You might be looking in the wrong place. Find the new hole you cut in the battery box. Look through that hole by placing your head, roughly above the passenger pillion (seat) area, and look forward and down into the battery box.
4. You might have cut the access hole in the wrong place. You must remove the Dyna, remove the battery box, and go back to the access hole cutting steps above.

    

Once you are satisfied that your Dyna is set correctly and positioned right, plug the three connectors in to the unit. Start with the lower plug and work your way up. You can't get the plugs wrong, because each plug will only mount in one socket, and only in one orientation.

If you have cut a dip-switch access hole, check that your installation of the plugs has not displaced the Dyna position. The dip-switches should still be visible and properly set.

Tip: I made a tiny pillow out of a piece of foam paint brush, covered with a small piece of plastic shopping bag glued around the foam. See photos, above. When the glue dried, I pushed the pillow in to the dip-switch access hole, to keep the dip-switches protected from anything that might work--or spill--its way in to the battery box.

Collect the left-side wiring back to its original positioning, including the positive battery terminal going back up in to the battery box.

Position the wiring tray back to its original positioning, with the mounting hole positioned over its bolt-hole near the rear of the left-side cover area. Be sure all the wires are back in position, and not pinched or stressed anywhere.

Slide the mounting hole of the fuse-box back on its mounting stud.

Install and tighten the fuse-box mounting nut and the wiring tray mounting bolt/washer.

If you have removed the battery, do the following:

• Slowly lower the battery in to the box, being careful not to catch on any wires as you do this. Be sure the "+" terminal is on the left-side
• Hook the rubber retainer strap over the battery top.
• Note: The photo above merely demonstrates where on a strap I grabbed with my pliers, not necessarily which strap I grabbed.
• Tip: I hooked the front clip. Then I used a pair of needle nose pliers and slotted screwdriver to hook the rear clip.

Reinstall the battery cables with the terminal screws.

Finally, reinstall the right-side cover and seat. Then go for a test ride to be sure everything is working as planned.

If you need to adjust your Dyna 3000 dip-switch settings, refer to the Dyna 3000 Switch Settings article. It can be found in the same area of this website as you found this article.

EDITORS NOTE: Randy is a new author to the clinic, this being his first published article here. Since this article was submitted to us, we have received several more, each being of the same quality and caliber as this one. Randy is formerly a technical writer, and is currently a post-rehab specialist (MS, Parkinsons, Alzheimer's, post surgery, missing limbs). He lives in St. Louis and rides a custom candy raspberry 2003 Road Star with an iridescent black 113ci Nemesis power plant. Huge thanks from the Clinic for taking the time to put this well documented article together for us Randy!

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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