After seeing that my Road Star was going to require periodic wheel alignment, I decided to make it simpler and quicker for me to get more accurate and consistent results. First I checked on some of the online Road Star forums. I found that many other owners had come to the same conclusion I had, but developed different solutions. This document is a compilation of those solutions.

Before studying this document, it is recommended you first review its parent article: Rear Wheel Aligment.

Unfortunately, Yamaha left huge holes in the ends of the swing-arm pivots and the axles. Try as I might, I just didn't feel confident estimating the precise center of each hole. I firmly held my tape-measure's position, then estimated the center of the corresponding hole. However, I knew it was way too easy for me to be off by as much as 1/16 inch -- maybe more.

The most common solutions to getting better measurement results are as follows:

• Simple, axle/pivot inserts
• Axle/pivot inserts with integrated measuring
• Trammel Points

Simple, Axle/Pivot Inserts

The purpose of these is simply to eliminate the guess work of finding the center of the large axle and pivot holes. That's all they do, but they can improve accuracy and consistency, if done well. They are quick and easy to make -- another plus. They do not, however, eliminate the need for two, steady hands to measure the pivot-to-axle distances.

To create a set of these inserts, an online buddy, Jack (Ripper115 on the Delphi Road Star forums) suggests the following:

Use four 5/16" x 1" bolts. Mark the center of each bolt by scribing an 'X' across bolt-head points, and then smack the center with a sharp punch.

Next, wrap the threads of each bolt with just enough masking tape or electrical tape so that each one snugly fits into one of the four measurement holes (each side of the swing-arm pivot, and each side of the rear axle).

This completes the set. To use them, just insert each bolt into its appropriate hole, and use the center punch mark as your precise center marker.

I would offer the following suggestions:

1. Chuck the bolt shafts into a drill, drill-press, or machine lathe. Then file the spinning head-top a little bit, so as to create concentric circle marks. Then use the circle/spiral marks to locate the bolt's precise center. See photos above and below.
2. If you don't feel confident using a center punch with great accuracy, you could use a light touch with a permanent marker or touch-up paint-pen instead.

Axle/pivot inserts with integrated measuring

This is a 'next step up' from the simple inserts described above. It's more complicated to make, but eliminates the need to hold a measuring tape (or other marker).

Basically, I made four nipples that could be inserted into the pivot/axle holes, and integrated some small chain to act as my measuring-stick. The two nipples for the axle holes had cone shaped ends so as to make it easy to locate their centers. Note: Construction dimensions are given in diagrams later on this page.

Then I attached a long segment of ceiling-fan pull chain to the two swing-arm nipples. See photo below.

Then I inserted one of the chain-nipples into the swing-arm pivot, and inserted the cone-nipple for the same side of the bike into the axle hole. I stretched the chain back past the cone-nipple. Then I located a link right near the cone's point, and wrapped a tiny piece of phone-wire at that link. See photos below.

Finally, I removed the chain-nipple from the bike, held both chain-nipples precisely side-by-side with their chains dangling, located the link with the phone-wire on the one chain, and then wrapped a tiny piece of phone-wire around the corresponding link on the other chain, too.

Note: As an alternative to using phone wire, you could use a permanent marker or paint-pen.

Now all I had to do was stretch the chains back to the axle nipples, and compare chain lengths. See photo below.

To create the nipples for this method, I used my drill press and a file. Their dimensions are as follows (also see diagram drawings below):

• All nipples started as 1/2" aluminum rod
• Swing-Arm Pivot nipples are 2.5" long
• Axle Pivots are 2" long
• Left Swing-Arm Pivot --
  • Outermost 1" = 1/2" diameter.
  • Drill a 1/8" (0.125") lateral hole, 0.6" from the outermost end.
  • Then the next 1" = 0.39" diameter.
  • Then innermost 1/2" = 0.365" diameter.
• Left Axle --
  • Outermost 1/2" = 1/2" diameter.
  • Outermost 0.3" tapered to cone.
  • Next 0.1" = 0.35" (channel cut as a convenience to lay chain on)
  • Innermost 1.5" = 0.48" (with an invisible taper into the 1/2" diameter for a snug fit)
• Right Swing-Arm Pivot --
  • Outermost 1" = 1/2" diameter.
  • Drill a 1/8" (0.125") lateral hole, 0.6" from the outermost end.
  • Then innermost 1.5" = 0.53" diameter (accomplished using electric tape wrapping).
• Right Axle --
  • Outermost 1/2" = 1/2" diameter.
  • Outermost 0.3" tapered to cone.
  • Next 0.1" = 0.35" (channel cut as a convenience to lay chain on)
  • Innermost 1.5" = 0.34" (with an invisible taper into the 1/2" diameter for a snug fit)

This is quick and easy to use, and the chain is fairly accurate. But to my surprise, the chain has a bit of stretchiness to it. Not much, and it's not hard to give a consistent stretch factor. But I was hoping to eliminate this factor altogether. Also, it isn't as easy to detect tiny alignment adjustments as I would have liked.

On the other hand it is FAR superior to eyeballing a tape measure to the pivot/axle centers.

In the end, I went ahead and fabricated a pair of my own Trammel Points. See description below.

Trammel Points

I initially got this idea from another online buddy, Marty (BCHermit on the Delphi forums), but others have recommended it, as well. Below, is what Marty posted about this tool:

"Here is a pic. (See above) They slide onto an aluminum bar or wooden shaft of the required length. They are used for measuring center points on axle and swing arm bolts. Ace Hardware has them for about $24.00." - Marty, BCHermit

I couldn't find Trammel Points at any big-box hardware stores locally, so I decided to just make my own.

It took about four hours for me to make. My work pace was slow and steady, but the results were good.

I cut off two, 2" pieces from a 1/2", solid aluminum rod. I chucked each piece (a.k.a. each nipple) into my drill press, and used a file to create blunt, cone ends on them.

Next, I drilled a 5/32" hole in the side of them to hold a long, 1/8", steel rod. The holes must be located at identical distances from the ends of the cones.

Tip: If I ever decide to do this project over, I would change the following:

• Use a slightly larger diameter steel rod, to increase stiffness.
• Drill the holes closer to the cone-ends, to reduce the effect of any rod-to-nipple misalignment. I would make the holes around 1/2" from the end of the cone.
• Make the nipples 1/2", or so, shorter, so as to reduce the depth needed for threading (see below for details on this).

Note: It is best if the holes are directly through the full diameter of the nipples. It is important that the holes be drilled precisely square (perpendicular) to the nipples. It is most important that the steel rod be straight and true. Deviation from this will defeat any hope of alignment accuracy.

I smeared glue on the end of the steel rod, and slid one of my nipples on. Then I let it set over night. I used JB Weld, but any strong glue, suitable for metal-to-metal bonds, will work fine. See photo below.

Tip: Be sure you allow the steel rod to sit squarely within the nipple while the glue dries. Otherwise alignment readings may not be accurate.

To accomplish this, I just suspended the rod horizontally, put glue on the end of the rod (and into the nipple's hole), slid the nipple onto the steel rod, and wiped off any excess glue. That way, gravity assured me that the dangling nipple would dry squarely on the rod.

Then I drilled a blind hole down into the blunt end of my other nipple. The depth of this hole must be a little deeper than the side-hole. I then tapped the blind hole for a set-screw. See photo below.

To use this gadget/tool, all I have to do is insert the points into the axle and swing arm holes, and tighten down the set-screw. This quickly creates the length reading of my first side. Then I just walk over to the other side and attempt to insert the nipple points into the holes. If the nipples don’t perfectly match, I know I’ll have to adjust the axle. See photos below.

Note: The glued nipple is wrapped with electrical tape because the right-side swing-arm hole is slightly bigger than 1/2" diameter, and my aluminum rod was only 1/2".

Measurements and adjustments continue until I my points precisely rest into the centers of the axle and pivot holes on BOTH sides.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:

The discoverer of this method (Lynn -Looney- George) has asked that this method NOT BE USED. He feels that there might be an error.

Author's note: I feel it is more likely that any error would be in my ability to understand, properly execute, and describe Looney's method.

In any case, please do not attempt to use the description on this page until it has been thoroughly checked out. The text is included here for editing and publishing convenience only.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE INFORMATION ON THIS PAGE, UNTIL IT HAS BEEN VERIFIED BY THE DEVELOPER AND THIS AUTHOR.

Here is a very simple, and reportedly, accurate alignment method used by Lynn George (Looney on the Delphi Forums). This method has several appealing things going for it:

• The distances to be measured are small.
• The only tool needed is a cheap, plastic, vernier (or other) caliper, available from most hardware stores.
• No estimation of the exact center of a hole, is needed.
• No steady hand or steely eye is needed.
• No removal of parts is necessary except, of course, for certain saddlebags and/or Kuryakyn axle covers.

Lynn estimates the accuracy of this method to be about +/- 0.015". He should know. Lynn builds and sells wide swing-arm kits for wide tire installation, as well as Harley wheel adapters and axles, and other Road Star, custom parts. You can always find him on is Delphi forum at http://forums.delphiforums.com/theloon/start.

To perform the alignment, take your calipers and locate the inside-jaws (the smaller of the two sets). Go to the bike's left side, and place one of the jaws against the front edge of the alignment block. Then adjust the jaw-span to rest the other jaw against the inner edge of the alignment-screw boss. See photo below.

Note: Your reading will only be as accurate as your skill in using the calipers. It's easy, but you must take your time to look closely at the exact spots you're measuring. One jaw should be as close to the vertical center of the forward edge of the adjuster-block as possible. The other jaw should be ??? (to just above the screw???). Be sure you duplicate your locations when you use the calipers on the other side.

Without disturbing the caliper jaws, move to the other side of the bike, and hold the calipers up to the same spots on the bike's right side. See photo below.

If the calipers show that the right side is smaller (jaws won't fit), turn the adjustment screw IN, to pull the axle back. If the calipers show that the right side is larger (jaws fit sloppily), turn the adjustment screw OUT, to allow the axle to move forward.

This method uses the fact that the bike's front drive-pulley is precisely parallel to the bike's frame and line of travel.

Rear wheel alignment, therefore, should just be a matter of setting the rear wheel parallel to the front pulley. Since the rear pulley is parallel with the rear wheel, alignment can be achieved by aligning the rear pulley to the front pulley.

First the front pulley cover must be removed. To do this, remove the swing-arm bracket and the front pulley cover from the left-side of the bike, rearward of the clutch. This cover has no gasket. Be sure to keep track of which screws/bolts go where.

As you take the cover free, notice the placement of the two, white, nylon roller/retainers. Store them, or discard them; see tip below.

Tip: Many owners eliminate the nylon rollers completely. Yamaha designed them to keep the drive belt in place, even if it becomes very loose. Mostly, however, they just encourage debris and rocks to find a place to collect and possibly cause trouble--in my opinion.

To align the front pulley to the rear pulley, ideally, a precise straight-edge would be placed along the outside edge of the front pulley, and back along the outside edge of the rear pulley. Then you could simply see if the rear pulley lays absolutely flat against the straight-edge.

I said, "ideally," because a simple straight-edge can not lay along side both pulleys; the frame and swing-arm are in the way. In reality, the straight-edge must have cutouts to avoid those obstructions -- forming the straight-edge into an elongated 'E' shape.

Furthermore, the straight-edge must be wide and/or thick enough to remain rigid in its cut-away section. Quarter inch aluminum, steel or even glass plate will work well. An online buddy of mine, Mike Wilson (rat 700, mwilson298 on the Delphi forums) made his from reinforced plastic.

Mike's high-tech version of this straight-edge tool/gadget is shown in the third diagram below. The first diagram shows the raw material dimensions. The second diagram shows the more standard, but still potentially accurate, 'E' shaped version of this tool.

As you can see, Mike's design differs from the description above. Instead of a rear straight-edge segment for the rear pulley, Mike extended his cutaway all the way to the end. In other words, it's 'L' shaped. See photo below.

Since there are only two contact points for the rear pulley, Mike's design incorporates two dial indicators, which have been set to read zero when parallel is achieved. See closeup photo below.

Some would consider Mike's design over-kill, but none would argue its precision or ease of use.

A few owners prefer to measure the distance from their 'L' shaped straight-edge to the forward-and-trailing edges of the rear pulley using calipers instead of dedicating two dial indicators. This will work fine, assuming the long segment of the 'L' has been made to be precisely parallel to the segment that rests against the front pulley.

Whether or not you decide to build an 'E' or 'L' shaped straight-edge, adjustment is performed the same way. Adjust the rear axle's right side rearward (adjuster bolt screwed IN), for either of the following two measurements:

• If your straight-edge is 'L' shaped, and the rear pulley's forward reading is less (closer to your straight-edge) than the rearward reading
• If your straight-edge is 'E' shaped, and there is a gap at the rearward point of the rear pulley

Of course, if you have the opposite condition, screw the right-side axle adjuster OUT, to push the axle forward.

Note: I have not seen this tool in action, nor can I provide a specific source. It's sort of like an urban legend. I submit this, nontheless, by way of completeness, in case you're feeling the pioneer spirit.

In this method, a 15-20 foot, carpenter's chalk-line is snapped onto the garage floor. The bike should be positioned onto the chalk line as follows:

• Center-lifted and maneuvered over the line
• Center lift lowered so tires are down, but the bike is still upright
• Steering set straight
• Both tires precisely centered on the line

Then a kind of a homemade, rod-and-chain thing is run through the hole in the rear axle. This thing is made up of equal-length pieces of small-diameter chain connected to the ends of a long rod.

Dimensions are roughly as follows:

• Rod: 3/8" x 4'. The rod length may be any length, actually, as long as it is longer than the rear axle, but long enough to allow the chains to touch each other, and reach the floor without interfering with the rear fender. The longer the rod is, the more accuracy this method offers.
• Chain: 2 lengths of 3/8", or smaller, chain -- 4' in length or longer. The longer the rod is, the longer the chains must be. Any type of chain is acceptable, as long as it will not stretch when pulled taut, and it won't kink. The longer the chains are, the more accuracy this method offers.

Tip: Rods or pipe may be substituted in place of chains, as long as they are rigid, straight, and true.

This tool is constructed by fastening one end of each chain to the ends of the rod. Care must be given not to fix the chain to the rod in such a way as to prevent the rod from being slid through the hole in the rear axle. To do this, the chain can be glued, soldered, or welded in-line with the rod.

Alternatively, you could run a small wire-tie through a hole you drill near the end of each end of the rod, and then through the end link of the chain. Or, if the chain is smaller diameter than the rod, you could drill short, blind, pilot holes into the ends of the rod, dangle or push the chain-end into the hole, and solder it in place. Just be sure links which are outside the hole are not soldered, as this may dramatically affect reading accuracy. Whatever holes you put into the rod, just be sure you measure their placement to reflect identically on both sides.

Tip: In any case, you could construct your tool so as to allow you to attach the chains AFTER the rod is slid through the axle-hole.

Next, the rod's lateral (side-to-side) center is marked. Then, points 7" on either side of the center point are marked. Marking can be accomplished with a permanent marker, a center-punch, a file, or whatever.

To use the tool, you run one chain and the attached rod through the axle hole. The rod is centered, length-wise, in the axle hole, using the marker points as reference.

Then the chains are lead to a point behind the bike, on the chalk line. The rear wheel is aligned when the bitter ends of the chain touch down on the same spot along the chalk line.

Adjust the right-side adjuster IN (axle rearward) if the right-side chain touches the chalk line closer to the bike than the left-side chain. Adjust the right-side adjuster OUT (axle forward) if the left-side chain touches the chalk line closer to the bike than the right-side chain.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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